Middle Sister Climber's Log

Viewing: 1-20 of 116

cascadetraveler - Dec 19, 2005 11:22 pm

Route Climbed: hayden glacier Date Climbed: july 3rd, 2005  Sucess!

The climb began on saturday the 2nd of july at pole creek trailhead. Myself and seven other fellow obsidian club members participated. The obsidians are a climbing and hiking club located in Eugene, oregon. It was one of the first hot days of summer in the cascades. We had a leisurly and uneventful hike in to base camp. We pitched our tents along some springs just a couple hundred yards below the snout of the Hayden glaicer at about 7000 ft. We awoke at 3:30 in the morning to a star choked sky and unusually warm morning. We throw are gear together donned are packs and headed for the glacier. We arrived at the glacier and proceeded to flake out the rope,slip on harnesses and fit crampons on boots. With two rope teams of four we proceeded up the right or north side of the glaicer. the route is a high snow cornice that runs parellel along the glacier well above the visible crevasse fields. The cornice peters out just below the peak known as prouty. Once off the cornice we walked a short distance to the col are the saddle. We all take turns belaying the next person to us over the mote and onto the rock. We repeat this procedure as we head onto the snowfield at the base of the summit pyramid. The final pitches to the summit do not lay back all that much so we set two pickets along the steepest sections and eventually work are way through frozen rock and rotten ice/snow mix. We arrive at the sun splashed summit at 7:30 in the morning. We enjoy views all the way north to Mount adams in Washinton state. west to the coast ranges south to mt Mcgloughlin and were a bit blinded by the sun as we look to the east on oregons great high desert plateau.


mandrake - Oct 31, 2005 7:44 pm

Route Climbed: Hayden Glacier Date Climbed: June 11, 2004  Sucess!

Clouds came in just when heading up the north ridge. Top was in total white-out. Ridge was a bit gnarly, but fortunately we had enough pickets to protect it.


Andinistaloco - Sep 12, 2005 3:45 am

Route Climbed: SE ridge, I think.... Date Climbed: fall/winter 2002  Sucess!

Great hike and magnificent views of the south sister. Route was out of season but so nontechnical that it didn't really matter.


iluka - Sep 5, 2005 11:38 pm

Route Climbed: Collier Glacier Date Climbed: September 3, 2005  Sucess!

This was little more than a walk-up but a very nice one at that. The Collier Glacier presents little in the way of challenges now as it no longer has any crevasses (contrary to the trip report from 2001 commenting on a lot of crevasses on it's northernmost side -- and our President claims Global Warming is no big deal...). Crampons are stil necessary, particularly early in the morning in late season, as the ice is firm and footing would be very difficult without them.

seth fridae

seth fridae - Sep 3, 2005 6:22 pm

Route Climbed: north ridge via north sister Date Climbed: 9/3  Sucess!

summited middle as part of three sisters traverse. Descent down south ridge. Beutiful crystal rock was left on the summit by a fellow hiker which i enjoyed looking at while i had a smoke.


amochka - Aug 17, 2005 6:08 pm

Route Climbed: Hayden Glacier Date Climbed: August 14, 2005

Definitely too late in the season for this route. Not enough snow this year to be climbing this route this late..hayden glacier heavily crevassed, lots o' rockfall, etc. Reached the point just below the north ridge and couldn't safely head up, so didn't get to tag the summit. Steps in heavily crevassed area were blowing out....and lots of loose rock coming off the saddle between north and middle sister.

Seems that the southeast ridge looks better to me if you have to walk up shifting piles of rock, which is basically what we spent all day doing. Beautiful weather, clear skies and good company made the slog worth it. Will be back earlier in the season or will try a different route next year.


crirwin - Jul 13, 2005 1:37 pm

Route Climbed: Hayden Glacier Date Climbed: July 25, 2004  Sucess!

A long one-day slog from Pole Creek Trailhead with my friend Nathan. Once we hit the Hayden we made a direct shot along the right edge of the glacier toward Prouty Point. Saw one good sized rock slide just as we approached the Point. The last scramble up the North Ridge was straightforward with one good pitch of late season snow that required us to break out the ice axes.

A thunderstorm started to approach just as we were about halfway down the Hayden on our descent. I didn't know I could run so fast with a pack on! Made it down below treeline just as the lightning began crackling overhead.

Finished the long hike back to the car - about 14 hours roundtrip.


DagiTig - Jun 8, 2005 2:01 pm

Route Climbed: North Ridge Date Climbed: August 31, 2003  Sucess!

What a great climb and beautiful weather! A little tricky traversing one of the glaciers - crampons would have been nice!


onandupwards - Feb 21, 2005 1:15 pm

Route Climbed: North ridge/Hayden Glacier Date Climbed: October 2003  Sucess!

Exposed crevasses due to late season climb, had to skirt to ridge to avoid.

Andy Dewey

Andy Dewey - Feb 3, 2005 3:43 pm

Route Climbed: South Ridge/Irving Glacier Date Climbed: August 2001  Sucess!

Camped at Chambers Lakes, climbed via Irving Glacier and south ridge. Great day, awesome views.

K2McKay - Nov 22, 2004 6:42 pm

Route Climbed: Hayden Glacier and North Side Date Climbed: July 25 1998  Sucess!

Great skiing down the cone and the glacier both. Me and Joe rocked it hard weaving in and out of the crevasses. The summit cone is nice and steep as well. All in all, a great day.

Shaun Matyas

Shaun Matyas - Aug 27, 2004 2:52 pm

Route Climbed: South East Ridge / North Ridge / Hayden Glacier Date Climbed: August 12, 2004  Sucess!

A wonderful climb. My group did a loop from Lake Demeris, up the South East Ridge trail (the trail can be hard to find because of erosion), yet you can see were you need to go. We descended the North Ridge trial, which is easier to follow, then the SE, climbed the small peak between the North & Middle (Protey's point), then glissaded down the Hayden Glacier. Wonderful trip. Watch out for the butterflies, there were hundreds of them flying up and down the mountain.

Don Nelsen

Don Nelsen - Jul 27, 2004 1:11 am

Route Climbed: South ridge Date Climbed: Sept 22, 1979  Sucess!

After climbing Broken Top the day before and backpacking a bushwhack route to the Chambers Lakes area we were a bit tired but realized this would be our only chance to climb this peak for maybe years to come. With Rob and Dave as partners, we scrambled up very unstable talus to the summit in about 2 hours from our camp at Chambers Lakes. This route is very unstable! Most of the time it felt as if the whole slope was about to give way. Won't do this route again! About 50 degrees at the summit with 30mph winds made it a bit uncomfortable for us dressed in shorts and t-shirts but at that age we all felt invinceable - boy did we have a lot to learn!


aishv - Jul 5, 2004 12:47 pm

Route Climbed: Hayden Glacier Date Climbed: June 19th, 2004  Sucess!

Climb Party: Mazamas Climb - Portland OR

E. side ascent of Middle sister via the Hayden Glacier. Started from the Pole Creek TH (drive to Sisters OR, sign in at the Sisters Ranger Station and head to Pole Creek TH off of Hwy 242). Packed in to ~6200 ft and 5 miles from the TH for an overnight stay on June 18th. Early AM start at 03:00 up the Hayden Glacier to Prouty point. Had to use crampons almost all the way to the summit. Reached summit at 10:00, descended back to camp at 13:00. Broke camp and back at car at 17:00. Great climb with great weather and views from the summit. Since climb was early in the season, very few upper level crevasses were just starting to open up.

pjc30943 - Apr 17, 2004 12:48 am

Route Climbed: North Date Climbed: August 1998  Sucess!

Left Eastern Oregon at 3am, and began climbing at 7am. No special equipment needed, just ski goggles and plenty of water. The scree was two steps up, one slide down, as everyone knows:(

The ridge was a fun route, I have to say I saw the heels of the person in our group hiking in front of me, once too often though:)

Good memories from this climb


annaleiserabinek - Aug 30, 2003 3:20 am

Route Climbed: North Ridge via Renfrew Glacier Date Climbed: August 9, 2003  Sucess!

See Cornvallis below for a detailed log. The Obsidian area is gorgeous. Take the time to get a Limited Entry Permit. You will not be dissapointed. Its one of the most beautiful areas I have ever been in.


brandon - Aug 22, 2003 1:41 pm

Route Climbed: North Ridge Date Climbed: Aug 17, 2003  Sucess!

Traversed here after doing N Sister


dkantola - Aug 20, 2003 12:38 am

Route Climbed: North Ridge via Renfrew Glacier Date Climbed: August 9, 2003  Sucess!

See Cornvallis's entry below. Great views from the west side of the Sisters. The quota system is a pain. This route is reasonable to do in a day, but the hike out can feel a bit long.


cmc56789 - Aug 19, 2003 11:42 pm

Route Climbed: North ridge via Hayden Glacier Date Climbed: august 19, 2003  Sucess!

I left the pole creek trailhead solo at about 12:15 AM and reached the summit at 7:15. It was the best conditions i could have possibly asked for. I could see from St. helens and Adams all the way to Shasta and everything in between. no clouds at all north or south for about 45 minutes. also only a very mild breeze made the summit pleasant. the Hayden is pretty broken up with lots of crevasses. I would reccomend crampons and ice ax for safety. a fall could easily end up in a deep crevasse.


Cornvallis - Aug 11, 2003 9:41 pm

Route Climbed: North Ridge via Renfrew Glacier Date Climbed: August 9th, 2003  Sucess!

Annaleiserabinek and I left Corvallis at 1:30 AM to meet fellow SummitPost member dkantola at the Obsidian trailhead by 3:30. We were late though, sorry dkantola, that road was crazy. Left the trailhead around 4:30 AM under starry sky’s. We reached the lava field and the first view of Middle and North Sisters as the dawn’s soft glow made for an incredible view. Saw a couple of deer in one of the many gorgeous wildflower meadows on the way up. Cached my huge pack near Sister Springs and headed up the climbers trail. The Renfrew was mild and crevasse free, crampons were not necessary, but would have been nice in a couple of spots. I was tempted to stop near the top of the north ridge and build a sand castle....it was deep. Enjoyed one of the best views anywhere for over an hour, most of the time we had the summit to ourselves. A bit cloudy, but other than that perfect. On our way down we enjoyed a few good glissades. Parted ways with dkantola at the Obsidian Trail and headed up the PCT to camp on a cliff at Sunshine with awe-inspiring views over Glacier Creek of Mt. Washington, Three Fingered Jack, Little Brother, North Sister, and Middle Sister. Asleep before dark, beautiful day. Surprisingly not crowded at all, only saw about 15 people on the mountain all day. Highly recommended, much nicer climb than South Sister with better views.

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