Middle Truchas Peak

Page Type
New Mexico, United States, North America
Hiking, Mountaineering, Trad Climbing
Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter
13066 ft / 3983 m
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Middle Truchas Peak
Created On: Apr 10, 2011
Last Edited On: Nov 26, 2011


Middle Truchas Peak is the second highest summit of the Truchas Group in the heart of the pristine Pecos Wilderness. Middle Truchas is located 0.72 miles NW of South Truchas Peak, 1.11 miles SW of North Truchas Peak and 0.4 miles W-NW of "Medio" Truchas. At 13,066 feet, Middle Truchas Peak is the 5'th highest summit in New Mexico, but it is not ranked only having a prominence of 246 feet. The spectacular steep and cliffy north face makes Middle Truchas one of the most rugged high peaks in the southern Sangre de Cristo mountains.

Middle and Medio Truchas Peaks from the northMiddle and Medio Tuchas from the north
The north side of Middle and  Medio  Truchas PeaksNorth side of Middle and Medio Truchas Peaks
Middle and Medio Truchas Peaks from South Truchas summitMiddle and "Medio" Truchas from the south
Middle and Medio Truchas Peaks: Route MapMiddle and Medio Truchas Peak Route Map
NW Ridge Route from NENorthwest Ridge Route

Route Information

There are many ways to access Middle Truchas Peak. The shortest approach is from the west via routes originating at Rio Quemado TH. From the north, access is from the Trampas Lakes Trailhead or the Santa Barbara Campground via Trails #24/#25. From the south, it can be accessed from the upper Pecos River Valley trailheads via Skyline Trail (Trail #251), Beatty's Trail (Trail #25) or Jack's Creek Trail (Trail #257).

North Truchas Peak from Medio TruchasNortheast Ridge Route on "Medio" Truchas Peak

If you starting from Rio Quemado TH, the Northwest Ridge Route provides the shortest and easiest way to climb Middle Truchas Peak. The other variation involves hiking to the saddle between North and "Medio" Truchas Peaks, ascending the Northeast Ridge of "Medio" Truchas Peak and traversing to the summit of Middle Truchas. Early in the season (usually late April-early June), if snow conditions are right, the two large couloirs fraiming the north face of the peak (image) make good snow climbs. When snow free, these couloirs are filled with unstable scree and best be avoided.

[img:703099:aligncenter:medium:Northwest Ridge Route] [img:685354:aligncenter:medium:Northeast Ridge Route on "Medio" Truchas Peak] [img:617195:aligncenter:medium:Snow couloirs on the north side of Middle Truchas (image by SP user Dan Shorb)]

Red Tape

The summit of Middle Truchas Peak and access routes are located in Pecos Wilderness. Wilderness regulations apply. No permits are required for both day-hikes and overnight backpack trips. Camping is not permitted within 200 feet of a lake and within 50 feet of a stream/river. For more information, contact Santa Fe National Forest (505-438-5300)

When to Climb

June through October is considered the best time to climb. Late July-August are the typical monsoon season, with regular afternoon thunderstorms. The access routes usually have snow well into late spring/mid-June. Winter ascents are possible, but avalanche conditions could be extreme and the approaches are significantly longer and usually require overnight or multi-day backpack.

Miscellaneous Info

Pecos Wilderness map (published by the US Forest Service)

USGS Map Quad: Truchas Peak

Santa Fe National Forest webpage

Pecos Wilderness webpage

Middle Truchas Peak

26 Images 6 Climber's Log Entries 1 Comments 0 Additions & Corrections


2 Routes


MyTopo Map Nearby Mountains & Rocks Interactive Map Mountains & Rocks in New Mexico


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