Miguel Carmona on the crux...

Miguel Carmona on the crux...

Miguel Carmona on the crux third pitch of "Land of Little Rain", South Face of Lone Pine Peak, High Sierra, California. 1996 photo: Alois Smrz.
on May 8, 2003 9:52 am
Image ID: 20305


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Craig Peer

Craig Peer - May 8, 2003 10:20 am - Hasn't voted


That looks hard there.


asmrz - May 8, 2003 10:35 am - Hasn't voted

Re: Hard

Too hard for me to do now, about 10C or D. The traverse to the right side of the roof is where it gets very thin. Very good quality rock throughout. Three confirmed ascents as of fall 2002.

Cheers, A.


poorboy44 - Sep 3, 2003 12:36 pm - Hasn't voted

Hey alois

Me and my buddy Stephen Quale did this route in May 2003. Overall it was a great adventure, but somewhat scary on some pitches (wouldn't want to slip off on the runnout 5.7 pitch!). We topped out at dark though and couldn't figure out the descent so we had to bivy without gear under a boulder, brrrr!!

A really good adventure, I recommend the S. Face of Lone Pine Peak to anyone looking for adventure "off the beaten track" (but close to the road!).


asmrz - Sep 3, 2003 4:37 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Hey alois

Hi Scott (?):

Congratulations on climbing the route. You guys did third ascent of it, I think. I was told last year that someone did it, but later was told it was not so. Brandon Thau and Jon Stark did the second ascent in 1998/1999 and you guys did the third. I have heard about that 5.7 runout pitch already, Jon Stark said something similar about it. If you move across the three ribs just at their base, the climbing is easier. Climbing up to the top of the ribs and traversing right and up is a bit harder and of course, no pro. Are the fixed pins still there below the roof? So how long did it take you from the car? I'm trying to get agreement on how long it might take average party to do RT from/to car. Again, thanks for the email, it made my day. I have been imobile, first with knee injury and last week hurting my back badly, so reading your note gives me a lift. Cheers and good climbing,


PS. Where did you guys get a topo of the route? Our San Diego friends?


poorboy44 - Dec 17, 2003 6:47 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Hey alois

sorry I haven't been on this in awhile! I can't remember about the fixed pins.

We used the description from the Secor guide, which worked out OK. Our time--I can't remember now but we started pretty early from the car (4AM maybe?) and topped out in the dark (8 PM?). then we wandered around trying to find the descent in the dark for 4 hours.

JUST when we thought we had finally found the right way down we found a turd, laying in the dirt. I recognized it----it was MY turd, from 4 hours earlier. We had managed a gigantic loop and ended right back on top. That was pretty crushing. So we ended up bivying under a boulder, which was pretty cold but we made it. Int he morning we found the proper descent which still took about 4 hours I'd guess. we were pretty wrecked, and I think I lost about 7 pounds in 24 hours, as well.


travelin_light - Jan 2, 2008 4:33 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Hey alois

ha ha ha!

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