With Rachael. After Tijeras we dropped off the west side of the Tijeras Music saddle (steep class 2, mostly grass) then traversed around the back of Music on class 2 grass trying to stay as high as we could along the cliffs until we found a break to traverse high in the basin below Aislado, Milwaukee and Music. Up the class 2 "back side" of Milwaukee and along the south ridge to the top. No exposed ledge required. Traversed Aislado and 13020, back over the pass and to camp.
Hiked into camp at Upper Sand Creek Lake. Went up Milwaukee (one little part of that ledge was loose and scary), over to Pico, then 13020, down to the drainage and back over the pass. A long day! And . . . when I stumbled back into camp, I discovered that someone had stolen my bivy sack, sleeping bag, and sleeping pad!
A little route finding problems, but finally made the class 3/4 to the top. Just after the 2" ramp, go straight to the big notch, with the chokestone, (200') and go straight up the steep grassy ledges to the top.
From Music. It's no worse than 4th class if you drop 30 feet off the ridge in a couple places. Trip report.
A new trail exists just below the north ridge on the east side to Milwaukee Pass. The east face was more exposed than we thought. See TR. I think we exited the ramp too late and got into some pretty exposed 4th class. Continued on to Asilado and UN 13020.
The "crux ledge" wasn't as scary as I'd feared, but it did make two members of our party decide to call it quits. I thought the scrambling higher up was more difficult, but maybe we were slightly off route. Regardless, it was a ton of fun. Traversed to Pico Asilado & UN 13020 (which at the time I didn't even realize was a ranked peak) before exiting the ridge down a nasty gully.
One more trip to this fabulous peak, en route to Pico Asilado. This time we tried the Cottonwood Creek route, and I'm so glad we did! The wildflowers were *outrageous* !! I've never seen anything like it, and I've been in the San Juans and the Gores in the past week. The bluebells and monks hood are so thick there that the meadows appear blueish from 2000' above! Thank you, heavy snowpack! What a treat!
The crux ramp on Milwaukee didn't seem so bad this time. We found that only a half-dozen folks had signed the register since Erin's and my last visit! Afterward, we traversed to Pico Asilado and UN 13,020 before returning to Cottonwood Creek for the descent.
I was along with Ryan and Erin (see the TR on this page). Awesome area, awesome climb.
We fought back our fears on the exposed ramp and enjoyed a fun routefinding adventure on Milwaukee's upper heights -- a very satisfying day in the Sangres. A trip report is available here.