A fun climb. We bypassed the 5.10 pitch on the right by climbing a chimney to the stellar 5.8 hand crack. Well worth the lower pitches.
Shirley and I climbed the East Face of this tower using Nelson & Potterfield guidebook description. Lower apron which comprises about 2/3rds of the route is pretty sh!tty - somewhat loose adventure-type climbing with marginal pro in some places. Some routefinding. The summit block (upper 2-3) pitches are very nice though the crux pitch (P5) starts somewhat loose. Awsome .10 (per N&P) fingers to hands crack on P5, a fun roof/flake move followed by stellar hand crack in the summit headwall on P6 (nice exposure on both these pitches). Popular route that day: a fast party of 3 well ahead (these guys warmed up on E. Face and then jumped on E. Face of Lex - NICE) and another party of 2 (who bailed before summit block) besides us.