We approached via Cajon del Morado and camped at the lake (which was frozen and covered in snow) and more or less climbed what was in front of us, working our way left and then traversing right over the hanging glacier to the main summit pyramid slightly above. Not 300 vertical meters from the top, the clouds dropped and it began to snow so we returned without gaining it. The snow in the main gully to the left of the hanging glacier was all deep powder, so our route went between rocks to the far left which was better snow. Only one section near the bottom was hard ice but not long enough going to warrant screws. We descended the powder gully. Most the way until above the hanging glacier is a steady 50 or 55 degrees, maybe more, and then again at the final pyramid. Very fun climb with many variations possible.