jdegroot - Sep 12, 2023 3:19 am Date Climbed: Jul 31, 2022
One-day push from Lotschental
02:30 Fafleralp
4:00 Anenhutte
8:00 Hollandiahutte
Navigating from Anenhutte to Hollandiahutte in the dark was very VERY hard. It's hard to find way in the morenen, therefore Mittaghorn is just not suitable for a oneday push. Takes too much time. The glacier below the Hollandiahutte is tricky with snow bridges and super big crevasses. Be careful. The easier part starts above the Hollandiahutte with a glacier that's easy to navigate. Then it's tricky again on the Anenjoch with a bergschrund you can not see when there's snow, we had to try to cross it on different places cause we were sinking through, but we succeeded. Then a bit up the ridge there are bolts to downclimb a small tower, here we calculated our chances on summiting+returning home safely. We figured the snow on the bergschrund would melt quickly and turned around. The ridge to the summit looked exposed but safe though with enough snow.
11:45 back in Hollandiahutte
Route Climbed: South Ridge Date Climbed: july 2009
Climbed the normal route from the Hollandiahütte. It was high season, a weekend, beautiful weather, good snow conditions...and we were the only party leaving from the Hollandiahütte for an alpine tour. You can't hear me complain about it, but I found it a bit strange. Anyway, the summit ridge is very nice, but narrow. First summit of our 24-day climbing trip.
jdegroot - Sep 12, 2023 3:19 am Date Climbed: Jul 31, 2022
One-day push from Lotschental02:30 Fafleralp
4:00 Anenhutte
8:00 Hollandiahutte
Navigating from Anenhutte to Hollandiahutte in the dark was very VERY hard. It's hard to find way in the morenen, therefore Mittaghorn is just not suitable for a oneday push. Takes too much time. The glacier below the Hollandiahutte is tricky with snow bridges and super big crevasses. Be careful. The easier part starts above the Hollandiahutte with a glacier that's easy to navigate. Then it's tricky again on the Anenjoch with a bergschrund you can not see when there's snow, we had to try to cross it on different places cause we were sinking through, but we succeeded. Then a bit up the ridge there are bolts to downclimb a small tower, here we calculated our chances on summiting+returning home safely. We figured the snow on the bergschrund would melt quickly and turned around. The ridge to the summit looked exposed but safe though with enough snow.
11:45 back in Hollandiahutte
il.rocciatore - Aug 23, 2009 3:37 pm
Route Climbed: South Ridge Date Climbed: july 2009Climbed the normal route from the Hollandiahütte. It was high season, a weekend, beautiful weather, good snow conditions...and we were the only party leaving from the Hollandiahütte for an alpine tour. You can't hear me complain about it, but I found it a bit strange. Anyway, the summit ridge is very nice, but narrow. First summit of our 24-day climbing trip.