Best start is Engelhorn hut.
Wonderful and very popular climb on excellent rock.
The Mittelgruppe is a series of 6 peaks that are usually climbed in one day. The starting point is the Ochsen Valley. The traverse is done from east to west, so the first destination is a saddle called Gemsensattel
2541 m. Halfway to the Gemsensattel is a tiny peak (Ruppspitze 2313 m) which helps you to find the way. Start left (west) of this peak and head to its summit. Just before you reach it, traverse to the right and reach the couloir that leads to the Gemsensattel. 2 hours. If you think that the weather will deteriorate, this is the last chance to return!
Now the climb of the lofty ridge begins. To reach the Gemsenspitze
(2617 m) first keep on the ridge, then climb the last bit on the right side (Urbach side) on excellent steps. More difficult is the traverse to the Klein Engelhorn
(2643 m). After the saddle you will find an overhanging cliff, which can be avoided either by climbing right (slightly easier) or traverse on the Ochsental side to the point just below the peak and climb it directly.
The next saddle is reached by climbing down on your left in a small couloir, then rappel (max. 20 m). Climb on the ridge, until you reach the reddish rock of the the Mittelspitze
(2634 m). Go left and climb the perpendicular and exposed last part. Then descend more easily to the next saddle. A tower in the ridge will remain on your left, afterwards go back to the wide ridge and crest easily through several small couloirs to the Ulrichspitze
(2636 m). Continue on the ridge almost horizontally, then climb down to the next saddle. No comes the toughest part of this route. The Gertrudspitze
(2632 m) starts with an overhanging wall, that can be avoided by climbing on the left or right side of the ridge. On either side you have a short and exposed wall that must be climbed.
From the Gertrudspitze climb down in a short couloir, then short rappel (max. 20 m). Now an easy walk leads to the last peak of this Mittelgruppe traverse: the Vorderspitze
(2618 m). From there walk down to the Simelisattel (2426 m). From here it is not possible to climb directly back to the Ochsen Valley, since there an overhang in the lower part. So climb down holding steadily to your left until you reach the flank of the Vorderspitze. Traverse the couloir and stay very left!
If this is your first climb and you do not know the exact way, it will be a long day. After the 3rd climb it can be done in 5- 6 hours. Do not underestimate the way down from the Simelisattel, it is a climb on the rope!
rope 40 m, rappel gear
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