Great pitches, led this w/ Aaron Watt and the Ramras boys.
Climbed in a day from Cascade Pass parking lot. Started at 5 am. A couple mellow snow patches on the traverse from Mixup arm to the shoulder above the glacier. Ascended the left (U-notch) because the V-notch had a bad moat. There is a climber's path that connects the two notches on the backside. Protected 2 pitches above the notch (class 4/5.0, loose), then scrambled up to the shoulder below the East face's giant staircase. Fun and easy class 3 scrambling up the solid rock on the staircase. Ascending rightward traverse toward a gully below summit ridge across the face. Short but stout class 5 chimney at the base of the gully, followed by some scrambling up and over a chockstone to reach the summit ridge. Summit ridge very exposed and very loose. Not much protection until 2 rap anchors close to the summit. Did one rap off the summit (single 60m rope) to another rap station, but chose to downclimb instead of doing a 2nd rap there. 2 raps down to the top of the V-notch. 13 hours car-to-car at a very leisurely pace.
Done during the 'shoulder season' of late fall - proto winter.
Climbed as our first peak on the Ptarmigan Traverse
(Date is appoximate) With L Franzen & E Sandbo. A short 4th class pitch off the glacier leads to a long 3rd class climb to just below the summit ridge. The final short pitch is quite exposed; Eric belayed Leslie up the final 15'. The ridge-crest reminded me of a Castle’s crenellated battlement. The climb is a long, easy staircase but with quite a bit of exposure. The peak is a great day trip or could easily be combined with Magic and Hurry-up for an enjoyable weekend trip.