Per the typical route descriptions across several forums, was planning a day trip from Cascade Pass TH parking lot. Good weather in the AM and early PM. U notch proved pretty damn tricky to get up via the moat (low 5th class belay needed on downsloping holds). Getting up from the notch immediately put us in upper 4th class loose rock gully that eventually gave substantial pucker factor with exposure. The amount of time it seemed like it was going to take to get up and down this peak via any semblance of easy 3rd/4th class climbing seemed out of reach early on - consensus of group was turning around. We rapped down to to notch and took a heather goat trail up to the peak (we will call this Cop Out Mountain) in between Mix Up and Magic as a consolation prize, and took larger notch (not Cache Coul on Ptarmigan, but middle) down, another super sketch loose rap on a fixed rope and technical moves with exposure to get out of moat. Thunderstorms had rolled in pretty decently by the time we made it back to Cascade Pass but mostly just provided a cool off after a hot day
Great pitches, led this w/ Aaron Watt and the Ramras boys.
Climbed in a day from Cascade Pass parking lot. Started at 5 am. A couple mellow snow patches on the traverse from Mixup arm to the shoulder above the glacier. Ascended the left (U-notch) because the V-notch had a bad moat. There is a climber's path that connects the two notches on the backside. Protected 2 pitches above the notch (class 4/5.0, loose), then scrambled up to the shoulder below the East face's giant staircase. Fun and easy class 3 scrambling up the solid rock on the staircase. Ascending rightward traverse toward a gully below summit ridge across the face. Short but stout class 5 chimney at the base of the gully, followed by some scrambling up and over a chockstone to reach the summit ridge. Summit ridge very exposed and very loose. Not much protection until 2 rap anchors close to the summit. Did one rap off the summit (single 60m rope) to another rap station, but chose to downclimb instead of doing a 2nd rap there. 2 raps down to the top of the V-notch. 13 hours car-to-car at a very leisurely pace.
Done during the 'shoulder season' of late fall - proto winter.
Climbed as our first peak on the Ptarmigan Traverse
(Date is appoximate) With L Franzen & E Sandbo. A short 4th class pitch off the glacier leads to a long 3rd class climb to just below the summit ridge. The final short pitch is quite exposed; Eric belayed Leslie up the final 15'. The ridge-crest reminded me of a Castle’s crenellated battlement. The climb is a long, easy staircase but with quite a bit of exposure. The peak is a great day trip or could easily be combined with Magic and Hurry-up for an enjoyable weekend trip.