Left Cosmiques Refuge at 4:00 AM in order not to be caught behind the early starters, which would expose us longer to the serac danger on Tacul. Reached summit at 10. Beautiful warm day, all the warm clothes stayed in the pack and climbed only in my microfiber and cross-country ski gloves. 24 hours after we passed, a serac broke off and wiped out our tracks on Tacul. Lucky timing.
Climbed from Cosmiques Refuge with a mountain guide. 1AM breakfast, reached summit in 6 and a half hours. The Col on Maudit was a bit icy. We used 2 axes. Sunrise over the Swiss Alps after crossing the shoulder of Maudit was amazing. Total time was almost 12 hours getting back to Aiguilles du Midi.
Knowing what we know now, would have taken the traverse over to the Bosses ridge to stay in the Gouter hut. A hard summit for less than obvious reason. The push past Maudit is deceptively long and tedious.
fantastic weather and climb. love this area.
Beautiful day, beautiful climb, last part of the climb, big struggle in a wind. Still amazing
a little bit crowdy, 7 hours up, 6 hours down (from the top to the col du midi).
Free solo ascent made on the morning of Sept. 7th. From speaking to the staff at the Refuges Des Cosmiques, no one had summited this route in nearly 2 weeks due to a high avalanche risk advisory in effect and new crevice formations which were deemed difficult to spot because of fresh snow.
Close to 100 climbers at the refuge, 8 of us set out and 6 (4 person team and two soloists) of us made it to the summit.
It took nearly 12 hours to summit(2pm) - there was no trail after Mont Blanc du Tacul and we took a vertical ice climb through Mt. Maudit. I took another 12 hours going down the Gouter route till I arrived in the Chamonix Valley (2am) in one giant 24 hour effort.
a great traverse
Climbed via Tacul and Maudit.
It was very cold, early in the morning high on the mountain, but later it turned out to be a beautiful day.
I guided my boss from work over this route, starting on the Gouter and finishing on Aig Du Midi. We camped on the col between Mont Maudit and the Tacul to shorten what otherwise would have been a very long day. A lovely experience.
best rout from chamonix, sleeping in valle blanche is always a delight
Long and hard route, done in 8h30 round trip from the Aiguille du Midi. Excellent snow conditions though, and good weather.
After non successful try over Gouter and Gonella...this is very nice route. It was clear but very cold, during the descent we had a front in the back...when we reached Midi again, started heavy snowing.
I was anticipating a somewhat boring slog but the 3 mounts traverse is in fact varied and interesting with some technical (albeit very manageable) difficulties. THere was a bit ladder put up on the bergshrund of the Mont Blanc du Tacul. Ice on the slope below the shoulder of the Mont Maudit.
From Ref. Cosmique over MB Tacul and Mt. Maudit shoulder to the summit. Good wheather and conditions. Some blue ice on the steep ascent to Mt MAudit shoulder.
Descent to Ref. Cosmique and Aguille du Midi cable car.
Route was good fun, especially maudit but quite crowded and tiring!
Ok to solo, I had beautiful conditions (except some winds) but was quite slow. The last bit is torture, but the view from the summit is worth it all.
Descent via the goûter, long and boring except for the bosses ridge and the scramble below the refuge.
From Cosmique hut
We lived in our tent below Cosmique, waking half the camp up with our XGK at 01.00 when everyone started from the hut
A great day, even if somewhat over shadowed by the sérac avalanche a few days earlier