"After the first glass, you see things as you wish they were. After the second, you see things as they are not. Finally, you see things as they really are, which is the most horrible thing in the world."
--Oscar Wilde on Absinthe
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chicagotransplant - Sep 18, 2023 10:39 am Date Climbed: Aug 20, 2023
Normal RouteConsolation prize, from Cosmiques Hut with Jamie. Five days before our arrive a snow bridge on Maudit collapsed and we did not have the gear with us to do the bypass that other parties were using. We climbed Mont Blanc du Tacul instead for our first Alps 4000m peak.
runout - Jan 4, 2023 2:20 pm Date Climbed: Jul 8, 2019
Arete du diableLots of towers to climb
Flachlandtiroler - Oct 16, 2020 3:11 am Date Climbed: Aug 1, 2020
Arête du Diable (Teufelsgrat)Patrick led all pitches. Optimum conditions apart from the scree in the couloir. Only few (4-5) teams in the route. We were a party of three, round trip from/to Torino hut took 17h.
boriskrielen - Feb 5, 2018 5:41 am Date Climbed: Jul 29, 2009
Trois Monts route soloClimbed it during my Trois Monts route solo traverse of Mont Blanc. Also climbed the MB du Tacul E-summit.
AnttiOnDemand - Apr 9, 2016 3:39 am Date Climbed: Jul 15, 2002
Trois MontsClimbed as part of the trois monts traverse.
Nader1 - Mar 4, 2016 12:04 pm Date Climbed: Jul 15, 2005
Route Climbed:les trois MontsSummitted during les trois Monts traverse
Schaps - Dec 29, 2015 5:27 am
Normal route SoloEasy
bergbacke - Nov 5, 2015 12:25 pm Date Climbed: Aug 12, 2015
Normal RouteAcclimatisation climb for Mont Blanc
Cissa - Jul 8, 2015 1:11 pm Date Climbed: Jun 30, 2015
Pillier GervassuttiBroken chossy rock, lots of rock fall, scorching heat, my partner ended up getting into an even harder route and we descended horrible rappels halfway through the route.
andre hangaard - Feb 18, 2015 3:34 pm Date Climbed: Aug 16, 2014
Too much snowMy and my friend Mark (HOL) spent two nights in our tent on the Col du Midi. Our intention was to do the Trois Monts traverse but unfortunately there was way too much snow. All tracks were covered in fresh snow. On our third and final day we launched a summit bid but turned around at around 4.000m. The snow was far too mushy and soft, we were too late and there was a risk of avalanche. Better return to camp.
Rapparee - Jan 15, 2015 8:04 pm
ColdCame from Chere Couloir. O climbing in the shadow of the mountain is always cold!
Dalian - Oct 11, 2014 1:11 am
ColdI summited it once with a friend ( Claude ), another time by myself. Another time I came down by helicopter (hypothermia) Taken down to the hospital in Chamonix. It happened on my birthday (2007).
Many times I climbed to the col of Mont Blanc du Tacul alone or with friends, either as a final destination or on the way to Mont Maudit or/and Mont Blanc. Years when I climbed it successfully is 2007 (same as when I got in trouble).
Nigel Braggins - Sep 25, 2013 6:43 am Date Climbed: Aug 5, 1997
North West Face PDAcclimatisation climb for the Matterhorn. A straightforward slog although large crevasses and avalanche prone.
pvnisher - Jul 3, 2013 9:36 am Date Climbed: Aug 10, 2012
easy except for the topOne of the best glacier slogs around. I mean that.
il.rocciatore - Jun 17, 2013 7:22 am
Route Climbed: Contamine - Grisolle Date Climbed: june 2013After waiting years for good conditions and a chance to climb the Contamine - Grisolle, it finally happened in early june 2013. The first telepherique brought us from Chamonix to the Aiguille du Midi and 1 hour (and a small race) later we were the second party to attack the route. Perfect snow conditions in the lower part, a little bit icy in the higher part below the goulotte.
Although several parties (guides, clients and independent parties) ended up together climbing the goulotte, there was a nice and relaxed atmosphere, as it should be.
Continued to the summit of Mont Blanc du Tacul where we arrived at 12 o'clock. Back in Chamonix at 4o'clock. Very nice trip!
Marty32 - Jan 20, 2013 6:08 pm Date Climbed: Jul 4, 2012
acclimatisation peakA great climb especially good for acclimatising. Interesting little climb onto the final summit rock. Fantastic views.
ericvola - Nov 11, 2012 11:41 am Date Climbed: Mar 18, 1972
Boccalate spur1rst winter ascent with Andrej Mroz (Poland) and Ben Read (USA). 2 bivouacs. Perfect weather but very cold. Over 4 days non stop driving (fast) from Paris.
ZeroFC - Oct 8, 2012 5:15 pm Date Climbed: Sep 7, 2012
Trois Mont TraverseFree solo ascent made on the morning of Sept. 7th. From speaking to the staff at the Refuges Des Cosmiques, no one had summited this route in nearly 2 weeks due to a high avalanche risk advisory in effect and new crevice formations which were deemed difficult to spot because of fresh snow.
Left the refuge slightly before 2AM and summited the Tacul while still dark. A few difficult to spot crevices but nothing too bad.
oldgrey - Sep 24, 2012 5:12 am Date Climbed: Jul 8, 2008
Normal RouteNot sure about the date, very picturesque.
Bart Vaganée - Sep 13, 2012 6:16 am Date Climbed: Jul 26, 2012
Contamine-GrisolleOne of the most beautiful routes I ever climbed!