Consolation prize, from Cosmiques Hut with Jamie. Five days before our arrive a snow bridge on Maudit collapsed and we did not have the gear with us to do the bypass that other parties were using. We climbed Mont Blanc du Tacul instead for our first Alps 4000m peak.
Lots of towers to climb
Patrick led all pitches. Optimum conditions apart from the scree in the couloir. Only few (4-5) teams in the route. We were a party of three, round trip from/to Torino hut took 17h.
Climbed it during my Trois Monts route solo traverse of Mont Blanc. Also climbed the MB du Tacul E-summit.
Climbed as part of the trois monts traverse.
Summitted during les trois Monts traverse
Acclimatisation climb for Mont Blanc
Broken chossy rock, lots of rock fall, scorching heat, my partner ended up getting into an even harder route and we descended horrible rappels halfway through the route.
My and my friend Mark (HOL) spent two nights in our tent on the Col du Midi. Our intention was to do the Trois Monts traverse but unfortunately there was way too much snow. All tracks were covered in fresh snow. On our third and final day we launched a summit bid but turned around at around 4.000m. The snow was far too mushy and soft, we were too late and there was a risk of avalanche. Better return to camp.
Came from Chere Couloir. O climbing in the shadow of the mountain is always cold!
I summited it once with a friend ( Claude ), another time by myself. Another time I came down by helicopter (hypothermia) Taken down to the hospital in Chamonix. It happened on my birthday (2007).
Many times I climbed to the col of Mont Blanc du Tacul alone or with friends, either as a final destination or on the way to Mont Maudit or/and Mont Blanc. Years when I climbed it successfully is 2007 (same as when I got in trouble).
Acclimatisation climb for the Matterhorn. A straightforward slog although large crevasses and avalanche prone.
One of the best glacier slogs around. I mean that.
After waiting years for good conditions and a chance to climb the Contamine - Grisolle, it finally happened in early june 2013. The first telepherique brought us from Chamonix to the Aiguille du Midi and 1 hour (and a small race) later we were the second party to attack the route. Perfect snow conditions in the lower part, a little bit icy in the higher part below the goulotte.
Although several parties (guides, clients and independent parties) ended up together climbing the goulotte, there was a nice and relaxed atmosphere, as it should be.
Continued to the summit of Mont Blanc du Tacul where we arrived at 12 o'clock. Back in Chamonix at 4o'clock. Very nice trip!
A great climb especially good for acclimatising. Interesting little climb onto the final summit rock. Fantastic views.
1rst winter ascent with Andrej Mroz (Poland) and Ben Read (USA). 2 bivouacs. Perfect weather but very cold. Over 4 days non stop driving (fast) from Paris.
Free solo ascent made on the morning of Sept. 7th. From speaking to the staff at the Refuges Des Cosmiques, no one had summited this route in nearly 2 weeks due to a high avalanche risk advisory in effect and new crevice formations which were deemed difficult to spot because of fresh snow.
Left the refuge slightly before 2AM and summited the Tacul while still dark. A few difficult to spot crevices but nothing too bad.
Not sure about the date, very picturesque.
One of the most beautiful routes I ever climbed!