A long day from the Tete Rouse and back. Solo.
route too crowdy too be interesting, crossing the Aiguille du Goûter couloir is very dangerous
Reached the summit (after 9 hours climb) from the Refuge des Cosmiques in the company of a very close friend. Fortunately we were able to complete the climb despite our exhaustion (we had little time for acclimatization; more details provided in Trip Report). I cried like a baby from the emotions of having reached the summit without mishaps (my age was 52 at the time).
Three attempts, only one really serious bad conditions each time, maybe next time.....
No lifts were used.
This was my 1st peak in the Alps.
After a week of unstable weather (wind and rain) we left Chamonix on fri. 20th August. Arrived at 14:00 in Gouter hut. Very cold that night (-20C), but we left the hut at 2:45 towards the top. Snow and wind made the route not crowded at all, only 20-25 climbers seen on route. Many stayed in the Gouter ridge. At 8:15 we reached the top in bad weather: hard wind and snow. After 15 minutes we had to go down. Without our guide we would be lost, the track was totally covered with fresh snow. Picked up a couple of people during the descent. Back in Chamonix valley at 16:00.
Next year again, hopefully with blue sky to enjoy the view.
Started in free-solo from campsite at Col du Midi at 12:30 am. A lot of powder snow all the way up (up to my knees) that made it a very slow and bothering ascent. For each two steps upward, went down one step. Close to Mont Maudit Col decided to turn around aswell as many other people. It was a perfect weather day but it had been snowing for 3 days before that. It was a wonderful and beautiful experience. Not a lot of people (max 15) that day on that route, because of the snow conditions, so it was nice!
(Hello to my good friend Torben from Danmark that went all the way up and down with me in free-solo aswell!)
I'll be back one day !!!
Picked the wrong day to try and summit. First nice day in a week so every joe with an ice axe was climbing that day. This is the last time I try it via the Dome Du Gouter as there are too many people who don't know a thing about climbing going up there and causing accidents.
I didn't expect that it would be that easy to get on the highest summit of the Alps. It was for me a must been done summit, but know I think that the name of this mountain isn't more than the most famoust peak of the Alps. It was a nice and relative easy climb, I had a clear sky maybe that was my luck. I'll never will go back there cause the mountain is to crowdy and commercial. But I'm glade I have it on my palmares.
Camped on Col du Midi the day before. Climbed the Arête des Cosmiques on the Midi in the afternoon, went back down to campsite, have somtething to eat, rested a little and and initiated climb at 2AM. When crowded bottlenecks can be found at the Tacul face below the seracs' passes and in the rimaye of Mont Maudit before reaching the summit ridge. Very frigid wind when we arrived to Col de la Brenva, accompanied us all the way up to Mont Blanc's summit. Most people that go up this way descend via Gouter route. We had to return to pick up our tent. 6 hrs. to the summit, 5 hrs. back to Col du Midi.
We camped on the ridge of the Aiguille du Gouter and left the tent a little after midnight to ensure a head start on the hoards from the hut.
The climb up the dome du Gouter was a horrid slog but on reching the top we were bathed in moonlight and the whole route stretched out before us and there were only another two climbers in sight.
Pressing on over the bosses was difficult as tiredness began to set in and the final summit ridge felt never ending.
We summited at about 5am in the morning as the first rays of the sun were lighting the eastern horizion making revealing the shadowy peaks of the Valais. We paused for a while on the summit but the bitter cold meant we soon started down. We passed many parties on our descent but were pleased that we had the summit to ourselves without the crowds.
A snow plod, but great weather, fantastic views.
Beautiful ascent began in a night of full moon.From Gonella hut accros the summit and down to Cosmique hut:17 hours!!
It was hard but worthy. Very nice weather, a bit cold in the summit.
Winter conditions, no lifts open. hiked full vert. Aiguille du Gouter played out as very mixed, crampons and tools. Very cold summit.
Good but blistery day.