See my trip report and pictures here:
waited out a 3 day storm. made the summit, solo, in a few hours from gouter refuge. beautiful views. crowded mountain.
climbed normal route from Nid d Aigle to discover that a storm was due in the night, decided to head directly for Summit.
Summited at 8.00pm in high winds but perfect views from the top, back to Gouter hut by 10.30
climbed with brother Shaun Taylor and Ricardo Montiel from Granada, Spain who we met on the route
Crazy people waking up at 2 AM, leaving the hut at 3. Absolutely unnecessary to get up that early. We got up at 4, left at 5, summit and wonderful ski down with plenty of time to spare. Quite long route, but mostly uneventuful and nontechnical. Some approach issues over the Junction including one dicy crevass crossing requiring a belay. Almost everybody suffering from altitute, myself included even after an entire winter of climbing 1-2 4000m peaks/week!
Two times on the top.
My first alpine mountain.During the day of reaching Gouter Hut the weather was not very good and in the evening there was a snowstorm.But suprisingly next day weather was very good,clouds were in the valleys and all the higher peaks was peaking above them-great.I started climbing pretty late(about 5 am),spent some time in Vallot so I reached summit about 11:15. That day I descended to Nid d'Aigle.
We started early in the morning from Tete Rousse and reached Gouter Hut about 10 am,then decided to climb the summit(we planned to reached it next day).I reached the summit about 14:30,my friends 30 minutes later.It was very nice to be on the summit on my own(remembering the crowds in 2003) so when my friends came we spent some time on the top and slowly descended to Gouter where we spent a night.
From the middle cable car station we tried to make our way through the thick snow. Unfortunatly, the weather was not kind to us. It was snowing for three days continuously which is every skier dream, but quite a disaster for the mountaineering. We had to turn around. After all, I should admit that It was quite a pleasant skiing in Grand Modes (Chamonix)
With my friends Roby, Pero and Crippa I reached the summit of Mont Blanc along the way from Refuge de Cosmiques.
For me, it's the best easy way for the top of Mont Blanc!
A long day from the Tete Rouse and back. Solo.
route too crowdy too be interesting, crossing the Aiguille du Goûter couloir is very dangerous
Reached the summit (after 9 hours climb) from the Refuge des Cosmiques in the company of a very close friend. Fortunately we were able to complete the climb despite our exhaustion (we had little time for acclimatization; more details provided in Trip Report). I cried like a baby from the emotions of having reached the summit without mishaps (my age was 52 at the time).
Three attempts, only one really serious bad conditions each time, maybe next time.....
No lifts were used.
This was my 1st peak in the Alps.
After a week of unstable weather (wind and rain) we left Chamonix on fri. 20th August. Arrived at 14:00 in Gouter hut. Very cold that night (-20C), but we left the hut at 2:45 towards the top. Snow and wind made the route not crowded at all, only 20-25 climbers seen on route. Many stayed in the Gouter ridge. At 8:15 we reached the top in bad weather: hard wind and snow. After 15 minutes we had to go down. Without our guide we would be lost, the track was totally covered with fresh snow. Picked up a couple of people during the descent. Back in Chamonix valley at 16:00.
Next year again, hopefully with blue sky to enjoy the view.
Started in free-solo from campsite at Col du Midi at 12:30 am. A lot of powder snow all the way up (up to my knees) that made it a very slow and bothering ascent. For each two steps upward, went down one step. Close to Mont Maudit Col decided to turn around aswell as many other people. It was a perfect weather day but it had been snowing for 3 days before that. It was a wonderful and beautiful experience. Not a lot of people (max 15) that day on that route, because of the snow conditions, so it was nice!
(Hello to my good friend Torben from Danmark that went all the way up and down with me in free-solo aswell!)
I'll be back one day !!!
Picked the wrong day to try and summit. First nice day in a week so every joe with an ice axe was climbing that day. This is the last time I try it via the Dome Du Gouter as there are too many people who don't know a thing about climbing going up there and causing accidents.
I didn't expect that it would be that easy to get on the highest summit of the Alps. It was for me a must been done summit, but know I think that the name of this mountain isn't more than the most famoust peak of the Alps. It was a nice and relative easy climb, I had a clear sky maybe that was my luck. I'll never will go back there cause the mountain is to crowdy and commercial. But I'm glade I have it on my palmares.