Mont Blanc Climber's Log

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Chamonix Man

Chamonix Man - Aug 12, 2002 7:29 am

Route Climbed: Traverse from Aiguille du Midi to Gouter Hut Date Climbed: August 1999  Sucess!

Set off from the Aiguille du Midi at midnight and we were the first group out. As we looked behind us from the slopes of Mt Blanc de Tacul we saw a line of points of light from the head torches of those leaving from the cosmiques hut and the cable car station behind us. There must have been at least 100 people.

We took a break on the way up the face of mt blanc de tacul and the group behind us refused to overtake because they were following our route! It was a pleasure to get to the shoulder of Mt. Blanc de tacul, but the hardest bit was to come - the side of Maudit. I was not well acclimatised and this was my first big climb. It was hard work but good experience.

The summit was cold and there was a strong wind blowing, we didn't stay for long! Way down was much easier but there were more people using the gouter ridge to ascend.

7 hrs to summit from the cable car station. Would be less if I had been acclimatised.

Rahel Maria Liu

Rahel Maria Liu - Aug 4, 2002 8:04 am

Route Climbed: Normal route from Col de la Brenva (Aiguille du Midi, Mont Blanc du Tacul, Mont Maudit) Date Climbed: July 29, 2002  Sucess!

Although Ivano and I had to carry very heavy backpacks with tent, sleeping bags etc. because of our 2 bivouacs before and after opening our new route on Mont Maudit (Eperon Gousseault), we found it boring to return from Col de la Brenva the same way on which we reached it (Aiguille du Midi). So we decided that it would be more fun, if we made our descent including an ascent of Mont Blanc - and it was fun. Our first plan was even, that we did our second bivouac after our new route on Mont Maudit on top of Mont Blanc. But because we had started quite late the day before for our new route and therefore had reached Col de la Brenva quite late in the evening, we had decided to make our second bivouac on Col de la Brenva as well instead on Mont Blanc, although it would probably have been more funny on the summit of Mont Blanc ....

We were very lazy in the morning, got up late, took a long breakfast , enjoyed ourselves, the mountains and the great weather and started from Col de la Brenva not before noon. Therefore we were probably the last persons who reached Mont Blanc from Col de la Brenva that day .... the advantage: very few people whom we met during the descent.

Descent of Mont Blanc via Aiguille du Goûter and Tete Rousse.


mountaindog - Jul 28, 2002 1:00 pm

Route Climbed: Gouter - Bosses Ridge Date Climbed: July 2001  Sucess!

Did the standard route with a friend last summer. We bivied above the Gouter hut and got a good start before the hut crowd got on the route. Perfect snow conditions and low wind. A nice summit which you'll share with a good sized crowd on the good days.

Nice snow route with no real technical difficulties - provided the weather is good. Greatest danger other than bad weather (high winds, white outs, etc) and stonefall in the couloir are the unprepared novices who crowd the route. Be prepared, fit, and fast. The couloir above the Tete Rouse Hut must be crossed quickly and during the descent, be sure not to get off route and start descending it by mistake.

If you have successfully summitted peaks such as Rainier or Shasta (Hotlum) on your own, you can do Mont Blanc.

Fred Spicker

Fred Spicker - Jul 25, 2002 10:28 am

Route Climbed: Gouter Date Climbed: 18 & 19 July 1985

Climbed with Monica Spicker.

Storm on the night of the 18th lasted until late morning. We left the hut a about 10:30 AM and reached the summit at about 3:30 PM. New snow and high winds - but not as many people as I understand is normal.


phillinley - Jul 22, 2002 9:30 am

Route Climbed: Dome Du Gouter Date Climbed: july 22, 2002

One of the worst climbing experiences of my life and also the most thrilling. Left the snow dome above the Gouter hut at 3 a.m. with clear skies. Once we reached the dome du gouter we came into a complete whiteout with horrible winds. We pushed on with great diificulty and approaching the Valot Hut we realized their was no chance and rather than getting stuck in the ice box refuge we made a break for the return camp. It ended up being 100 kmh+ winds with four feet of snow and a complete whiteout obscuring the trail. Good work with the compass brought us back to relative safety.


marco979 - Jul 21, 2002 1:36 am

Route Climbed: Dome du Gouter Date Climbed: 19 July, 2002  Sucess!

Thanks to SummitPost, I have looked two parners to climb Mont Blanc: Mike and Jeff. Mike come from USA, Jeff from Germany (but he is USA citizens) and I from Italy. We have met ourselves In Chamonix and Thursday we left to Ref. Du Gouter. Weather not good, snowed. The refuge was full and we have slept on the floor (and we have payed for this!). Friday morning we have started to tclimb Mont Blanc at 2:45 and we're arrived on the peak at 8:10. Too cold, we're been for about half an hour inside the bivouac Vallot (very crowed) to wait the sunrise. On the peak just a time to take some photos and then we come back to Ref. du Gouter and then to Tramway du Mont Blanc at 16.30 (and we have left to Bellevue at 17:50). Geat weather, great day, and great climbing!


Lorenz - Jul 15, 2002 5:54 am

Route Climbed: Refuge Cosmique - Mont Blanc du Tacul - Mont Maudit - Mont Blanc Date Climbed: August 5th 2001  Sucess!

good conditions but very windy. Left the refuge at 2:00 AM and reached the top at 10:30 (slow due to very strong wind!!). Way back on the French normal route.



Plizi - Jun 21, 2002 3:36 am

Route Climbed: travese from Tacul and Mt. Maudit Date Climbed: juni 2001  Sucess!

Nice route with litte ice climbing but a lot of people


Rahel Maria Liu

Rahel Maria Liu - Jun 13, 2002 5:10 pm

Route Climbed: Normal Route via Grands Mulets Date Climbed: July 15, 2000

The weather was very bad: fog and snowfall. Therefore we turned around at P. 4000m, shortly below the Vallot Bivouac Hut. It was a wise decision. To my experience, this is one of the most important things, which one has to learn for safe climbing: to find the right time to turn around.

About 4 weeks later (on August 14, 2000), I reached the summit of Mont Blanc - with blue sky and great sunshine.

Antony Walker

Antony Walker - May 27, 2002 10:43 pm

Route Climbed: Three Cols Route Date Climbed: 15 June 2000  Sucess!

A fantastic but long day from our camp site on top of the Mer de Glace just below the Cosmiques Hut. Left at midnight with the other hundred or so climbers but made good time and were one of the first to arrive at the steep climb below Mt.Maudit. Unfortunately one of the four on the rope came down with altitude fatigue after the steep section (which was a headache lead fighting off other climbers) but decided to push on. The pace slowed and only reached Mt.Blanc summit at 11:00am. A fantastic narrow summit with great views, and then pushed off down towards the Bossons Glacier route - literally a snow desert burning any exposed skin - and stayed at the hut above La Jonction. Cream crackered but very happy!

scotttroxel - Apr 16, 2002 8:49 am

Route Climbed: Three Peaks Date Climbed: June 7, 2001  Sucess!

Started at the Aguille du Midi and with telemarks, skiid the ridge to the shagrin of onlookers (shock for myself!) and slept at the Cosmiques. We started our ascent at 3am which hindsight tells me was a little late when telemarking the 3M route. Sunrise greeted us spectacularly on Maudit, but it was then that we realized that the wind would be fierce. It was slow going into the wind and the velocity rose to 70K plus (probably reaching temp. of -60)! My skins failed at one point on Maudit and it looked tricky to complete from there, but after some maintenance, and with a little luck, we carried on. The wind became so fierce underneath the summit that we secured our gear including skiis, and climbed the final approach with only our axes in hand. Silent , clear and magnificent at the summit with no other people around. Despite significant frostbite to the face, and a scary fall at the start, successfully tele'd down the north face and through the Grand Mulets !! A gorgeous and dangerous day at times, and certainly this mountain commands my respect and awe. Can't wait to do other routes!

Diego Sahagún

Diego Sahagún - Apr 15, 2002 5:46 pm

Route Climbed: Dome du Goûter Date Climbed: 20 July 1990

We (my father, two brothers and a friend of mine) were very inexperienced climbers at that moment. We have no experience with glacier climbing methods but it didn't matter us, we had the strengh. We tried Mont Blanc after having hiking a lot in the Massif: Mer de Glace, MB du Tacul, Glacier des Bossons, Petite Aiguille Verte. Passed the night before in refuge du Goûter (2-3 hours of sleep with every kind of noises on the dining-room floor), next day we reached refuge-bivouac Vallot after having started at 3 AM. We had a voting so descending was the winner (I voted to ascend) because people thought we have no time resting to take tramway back to the valley. Also a strong wind blowed at Vallot and we peged out. We just took the last railway to Saint Gervais.


thomas.schmeidl - Mar 19, 2002 2:46 pm

Route Climbed: from aiguille de midi with ski Date Climbed: May 1992  Sucess!

We were only four climbers starting from refuge cosmiques but we could watch about 150 headlamps starting from the grandes mulets

tobi - Feb 6, 2002 1:05 am

Route Climbed: normal route Date Climbed: August 1999  Sucess!

Reached summit with blue sky and sunshine

Bernhard Sauer

Bernhard Sauer - Jan 25, 2002 7:42 am

Route Climbed: via East Face of Aiguille du Blanc and Peuterey Ridge Date Climbed: Summer 1982  Sucess!

started at night from the bivouac at Col de la Furche...did North Face of Aig. du Blanc in 3 hours without a rope and arrived the summit of Aig. du Blanc at sunrise...rappeled down to the begin of the Peuterey Ridge...climbed Peuterey Ridge without belay and arrived Mont Blanc Summit around 5 p.m. ...went down via Dome due Gouter and Aig. du Gouter and arrived Refuge du Gouter in the evening...very long day but wonderful impressions...highly recommended

Bernhard Sauer

Bernhard Sauer - Jan 25, 2002 7:36 am

Route Climbed: Traverse via Mont Maudit - Montblanc du Tacul - Montblanc - Dome du Gouter - Aig. du Gouter Date Climbed: Summer 1978  Sucess!

Started in the night from the old Refuge du Cosmique and arrived at Refuge Gouter late in the afternoon...worked as Mountain Guide and had a group of 8 people...wonderful day...great adventure for the group

Bernhard Sauer

Bernhard Sauer - Jan 25, 2002 7:32 am

Route Climbed: East Face - Brenva Ridge/Col Moore Date Climbed: August 1977  Sucess!

took us one a long day from the bivouac at the Col de la Fourche through the Brenva Ridge and back via Montblanc du Tacul to the old Refuge du Cosmique......recommended

Bernhard Sauer

Bernhard Sauer - Jan 25, 2002 7:13 am

Route Climbed: Normal route via Grand Mulet by Ski Date Climbed: May 1980  Sucess!

Solo...skied down the North flank from the summit...wonderful fresh power snow...a perfect day

dirkclaessen - Dec 29, 2001 2:26 pm

Route Climbed: Normal route Date Climbed: July 1989  Sucess!

Easy but beautiful snow route. Fair weather but very cold and a lot of wind. From the Gouter hut it's only a short climb (about 3 h). Solo

Rahel Maria Liu

Rahel Maria Liu - Dec 13, 2001 1:22 pm

Route Climbed: Normal route via Grands Mulets Date Climbed: Aug/14/2000  Sucess!

The route via Grands Mulets is long, but beautiful and lonely till Grands Mulets. From Biv. Vallot, the Bossesridge was, of course very crowded. I climbed the Bossesridge soloing.

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