After a long "ticky-tacka" through the white and infinite slopes and domes, my brother Gabi and I arrived at the summit of Mont Blanc, our emotions were the highest. It was 8h30am and we have started from Tête Rousse hut at 1h30am. 5 mins later our friends Luis and Fran joined us. Weather was perfect except a cold & windy start. We were back in Tete Rousse at 13h30pm and then Chamonix in the afternoon. Endurance, motivation and preparation were key in the success. We dedicate this exciting ascent to my father Suso who has been always the best source of inspiration.
see trip report for more details: http://www.summitpost.org/trip-report/210520/mont-blanc-our-dream-becomes-true-.html
Sois unas MAQUINAS !!!!
Un abrazo chicos
A beautiful climb in perfect weather. The snow was very, very soft. We will hang some pictures soon !!
bien hecho !
Saludos Pablo& Gabi
We left at 2.00 o'clock in the morning the refuge Grand Mulets at 3.100m and tried to climb the Mont Blanc via the "new" Grand Mulets route on skies as the snow conditions in June were still perfect. The old Grand Mulets route passed below the dangerous crevasses so that you were exposed to the ice fall quite a long time when going up, but on this new route, they nowadays advise, you pass the crevasses from above so that you are not exposed at all. However this route is steeper and we had to put our crampons on half way because the ridge became to icy as well. The nice thing of this route is that you are straight above Chamonix and that the lights in the Valley and even towards Geneva are great and that it is a quiet route as well! We were only with 8 persons when we left the Grand Mulets refuge and we did not see any other person that day at all.
Unfortunately for us it was -10c with a strong northerly wind of approximately 50km/h and that in combination of being exposed to the wind for a few hours on the steep ridge, we were almost frozen when we arrived at the Vallot bivouac at 4.263m after 5 hours climbing. After an hour trying to get warm again we decided to ski down the Mont Blanc all the way back to the Plan de l' Aquille which took us 1 hour including a long break. It is a pity that we could not make it to the summit, especially if you ski down from the Vallot bivouac and you are out of the wind and look back to the Mont Blanc which is under a perfect blue sky with no signs of strong cold winds at all.......
Because bad weather and lack of time we didn't reach the summit.
It was for me the first + 4000mtr climb so it was very special, we did one week of training in the ecrin and vanoise with a climb to the Mont Pourri. After that we wend for a week climb in the Mont Blanc Massive with a guide from Peisey Nancroix to do different climbs there including Mont Blanc over the shoulder of MB du Tacul and the shoulder of Mont Maudit. We went up to the refuge des Cosmic and decided to climb the next day Mont Blanc because of the perfect weather. Next day we left at 2 am in cold but calm weather to reach the summit at 7:30. It was a long and nice route, the same way back was not very pleasing but had to do with the program.
It was a cold and very windy day. On the summit in the clouds, no view.
See also my website HERE.
Going the normal route we slept the first night at the Tete Rouse hut and the second at the Gouter hut. Exposed situation with stones coming down the 'le Grand Couloir'. Arrived at the summit seven o’clock after a long, cold and early morning. Good feeling to stand on the top of Europe. A very long way down, (August 18, 1992).
After we tried to climb Mont Blanc for Grands Mulets route in april, finally we reached the summit for Gouter route in august.
A dream!! Quite easy this route compair of the other.
An easy climb, although the section below Gouter hut is not pleasant because of too many people climbing this route and trying to throw rocks on your head. Together with two friends we summited in less than three hours from Gouter hut. We were lucky with the weather, views were awesome.
I intended to get on the top of Alps but unfortunately I had to turn back form around 4500 meters due to bad weather conditions. I doN't care... it will work neyxt time:)
Traverse from Col du Midi with my brave 12 years old son.
My first climb in Alps. We did it without rope. It was a reckless act!!. Anyway it was awesome to be there in the place were the alpinisme born
"Via Grande Traverse/Three Monts Route (Aig. du Midi, Tacul, Maudit, Summit, Gouter, Tete Rousse). A perfect panorama and a very beautiful route. Conditions ok. Summit weather -7 °C, 70 km/h wind max but sunny. Thanks again to the very good and nice mountain guide Olivier Dufour from the Compagnie des Guides Saint-Gervais."
Pinneberg, SH Germany
Web page: http://www.haupt1.de/
Date(s) summited: Tuesday, 31st August 2004, 10:30 AM MET
impressive to reach the summit
Quite long ascent but certainly less crowded than Gouter route.
The Dome glacier could be tracherous, I was alone and I didn't enjoy to cross it.
Beautiful weather, great conditions. I started at 3:15am from Gouter and was 8.03 on the summit, where there were about 15 people.
It was windy but nice. There were no crowds of climbers. All in all it was a fairly good ascent.