Summitted Maudit during the "Three Mont Blanc".
Ivano and I opened this new route. It was great fun. Rock and a little bit snow/ice climbing in best weather - in a face of a famous mountain, where nobody has ever put his/her foot on. We started from Col de la Brenva quite late at about 10.30 a.m. , because we wanted to wait for the sun shining in the face. Before we started, we watched a helicopter rescue of an altitude sick person on Col de la Brenva (4303m).
After having finished our new route, we enjoyed a wonderful evening and sunset on Col de la Brenva - alone without any other people, a very rare occasion in this place.
The second mountain after Aiguille du Midi (and Mont Blanc du Tacul) on Ivano's and my way to reach our bivouac place on Col de la Brenva for our opening of a new route (Eperon Gousseault) on Mont Maudit the next day.
When I climbed Mont Blanc on 14th August 2000 via the normal route from Grands Mulets (in the end soloing), I had the plan to make the traverse to the Aiguille du Midi via Mont Maudit and Mont Blanc du Tacul. I had already made a reservation for the next night on the Ref. des Cosmiques. But on the top of the Mont Blanc, I changed my mind although the Mont Maudit looked really so inviting and although the weather was simply perfect - a blue sky without any cloud. But I thought that I was too late in order to make the traverse because of the bad snow conditions. The limit of 0°C/32 F was above 5000m/16403 feet. Therefore the snow was already very soft early in the morning. I was not in the mood to make the very long glacier walk in this soft snow. Therefore, after a big struggle with myself since I had been looking forward so much to climbing Mont Maudit and Mont Blanc du Tacul that day, I turned around on the Mont Blanc, only a few hundred meters away from Mont Maudit, and went down the same route via Grands Mulets.
This was even my 2nd attempt to climb Mont Maudit since I wanted to climb it also on the 15th of July in the same year (2000) via the same route together with some companions: Traverse from Grands Mulets via Mont Blanc, Mont Maudit, Mont Blanc du Tacul to Aiguille du Midi. But that time, we did not reach even the Mont Blanc because of bad weather. We turned around at a height of about 4000m, not far below the Vallot bivouac.
I hope I can reach the summit of Mont Maudit this summer via the Arête Kuffner.
On my first trip up the Mont Blanc we i all three summits.