Monte Corchia

Page Type
Mountain/Rock
Location:
Lucca, Italy, Europe
County:
Tuscany
Activities:
Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing
Season:
Spring, Summer, Fall
Elevation:
5502 ft / 1677 m
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Monte Corchia
Created On: Mar 17, 2017
Last Edited On: Mar 1, 2018

Overview

Monte Corchia 1677 m

Monte Corchia 1677 m is situated in the Alpi Apuane, a range which - as the name says - is comparable to the Alps rather than the neighbouring Northern Apennines, as its steep peaks resemble to the alpine ones, rather than to the rounded mountains of the Apennines,
Monte Corchia has two summits connected by a long ridge.
Towards Foce di Mosceta Monte Corchia shows an uniform slope, on the contrary to the West it forms different varied rock bands up to 200 meters high, originating some towers interspersed with rocky gullies, as the Torrioni del Passo di Croce on the right edge of the Western side. On the left end the Western rocky band ends above Passo di Fociomboli with three pillars, also separated by gullies. The central part of the long rocky band shows instead a large open wall.

Approaching Monte Corchia from Passo Croce
Approaching Monte Corchia from Passo Croce

Getting There

The closest village is Levigliani, located in the inland of Versilia on the tyrrenian coast.

- From A12 Genova-Livorno motorway exit Versilia, take the road to Seravezza. At the crossroad take towards Castelnuovo di Garfagnana and reach Levigliani. About 2 km. after the village of Levigliani take a road on the right rising with several hairpins to Passo Croce. Follow the left road becoming unsurfaced and park the car along the road just below the West face of Monte Corchia. Different path traces depart from the road running below the wall towards the base of the various sectors of climbing.

Main routes

The routes on West face from left to right:

Summit of Spigolo di Fociomboli
Summit of Spigolo di Fociomboli
Pilastro Fociomboli
Pilastro Fociomboli











- Spigolo di Fociomboli 5b (5a obbl), 180 m - The route follows the obvious ridge on the left end of the wall, just above the Fociomboli pass

- Padre Corchia 7a+ (6b+ obbl./A1), 170 m - The route start just to the right of the Spigolo di Fociomboli

- Amico Almo 6a+/A1 (5c obbl), 200 m - The route runs on the right of the pillar of Spigolo di Fociomboli. Start and first pitch common with "Padre Corchia", then "Amico Almo" runs to the right along a dihedrals' system.

- Banda Bailar 5c, 280 m. The route runs to the right of Erik. See the route description here: Banda Bailar


Slab on Banda Bailar, Monte Corchia
Slab on Banda Bailar
Traverse on Via Classica, II Torrione del Corchia
Traverse on Via Classica, II Torrione del Corchia












- La Volpe e la Folaga 6a (5c obbl), 150 m - To the right of Banda Bailar

- Primo torrione di Passo Croce - Ovo Fritto 6a+ (6a obbl), 150 m.- Route full equipped. See the route description here: Ovo Fritto

- Secondo Torrione di Passo Croce - Via classica 5a, 160 m - Classic route equipped with pegs. See the route description here: II Torr. Corchia Via Classica

Descent from II Torrione del Corchia
Descent from II Torrione del Corchia
Torrioni di Passo Croce aka Torrioni del Corchia
Torrioni di Passo Croce aka Torrioni del Corchia

Route: Erik

Via Erik description

Difficulty: 5c (5a obbl) - French scale
Length: 240 m
Pitches: 9
Exposure: West
Starting point: Passo Croce (Stazzema, LU)

Pleasant and well-protected historic route on good rock. The route is equipped with bolts.

Monte Corchia autumn picture
Monte Corchia autumn picture


From Passo Croce continue along the dirt road towards Fociomboli. The road becomes paved and dirt again. At this point park on the first parking lot and take the path on the right that in 10 minutes leads to the starting point (white arrow and name "Erik")

Route description

L1 - Beautiful slab, 4c
L2 - Directly on slabs alternating with terraces, 4c at the beginning then easier.
L3 - Again slabs alternating with terraces, 4c
L4 - Again slabs. After the first protection the route continues slightly to the right and becomes steeper. Not to be groped by the recent spit just ahead, it's another route, 4c.

Summit of Corchia and Tyrrenian Sea
Summit of Corchia and Tyrrenian Sea













L5 - From the belay head to left and overcome a overhang, then a crack and a slab, 5c
L6 - Another small overhang and a slab, 5b
L7 - Exit on the left of the roof, cross the grassy ledge towards a nice vertical slab, climb it to the belay, 5b
L8 - Towards left climb a small roof, then a chimney-dihedral, 5b
L9 - After a sloping slab towards left climb directly to the belay inside a groove, 4b
L10 - Few meters on grassy ground to reach the crest (belay on an outcrop)

Alpi Apuane seen from Monte Corchia
Alpi Apuane seen from Monte Corchia

Descent - follow a narrow path on the ridge eastward, then enter a wood and downhill on tracks (marked with small cairns) until you reach the dirt road that followed to the left leads back to the parking lot

Essential gear

Rope 2x60, harmess, helmet, 12 quickdraws, slings

Red Tape

Marble cave nearby Monte Corchia
Marble cave nearby Monte Corchia

No particular restrictions in climbing and hiking, even if all Alpi Apuane range is situated inside a natural park – Alpi Apuane Natural Park – established in 1985 to protect the milieu.

When to Climb

Best period to climb goes from April to October

Where to stay

Hotels in Levigliani

Bibliography

“Toscana e Isola d’Elba – Falesie e vie moderne” by Mauro Franceschini e Fabrizio Recchia – Edizioni Versante Sud, 2016

“Alpi Apuane” by E. Montagna – A. Nerli – A. Sabbadini
Collana Guide dei Monti d’Italia - CAI - TCI

Map: Alpi Apuane 1:25000 ed. Multigraphic

Meteo Forecast

Meteo Toscana








Monte Corchia

Mountain/Rock
16 Images 1 Climber's Log Entries 2 Comments 0 Additions & Corrections

Geography

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Parents

Alpi ApuaneMountains & Rocks