Monte Emilius Group First Ascents and Repetitions from the post - war period to today / 1 (M. EMILIUS)

Monte Emilius Group First Ascents and Repetitions from the post - war period to today / 1 (M. EMILIUS)

Aosta Valley, Italy, Europe
Page Type Page Type: List
Additional Information County: Aymavilles, Gressan, Charvensod, Pollein, Grand Brissogne, Saint Marcel, Cogne Municipalities
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Since 1945 until 2000 Years

But, as far as is evident in this subdivision, some periods overlap in terms of type of ascension. It's not that the mountain has been programmed with the measuring cup and even with your computer. This is also true for mountaineers, because this is not a sport, where everything is encoded by strict rules. More or less. So ribalteremo this proposal, still valid in its essential lines, with another scan that we will propose in the tableau immediately after, which will divide the various stages in a chronological sense, namely:
1) -: period after the war, or from '45 to 2000;
2) -: from 2001 to the present.

This new choice in order to differentiate from the point of view of technical evolution, calling Vie Moderne those ranging from 1945 to 2000 and the subsequent New Age, of which we will discuss in the next section. This choice makes it, in my opinion, easier to understand the speech of evolution especially with regard to ideas, resources and materials used. Nevertheless, even with this method we will make "overlap", which we can estimate as "advances"; while they logics, showing the great imagination and plasticity of the human mind.




Ma, da come ben si evidenzia in questa suddivisione, alcuni periodi si sovrappongono in quanto a tipologia di ascensione. Non é che la montagna é stata programmata con il misurino e neppure con il computer. Questo vale anche per gli alpinisti, anche perché questo non é uno sport, dove tutto é codificato da regole ferree. Più o meno. Quindi ribalteremo questa proposta, pur sempre valida nelle sue linee essenziali, con un'altra scansione che vi proporremo nel TABLEAU subito dopo, nella quale divideremo le varie tappe in senso cronologico, ossia:
1)- : periodo dal dopo guerra ovvero dal '45 al 2000;
2)- : dal 2001 ad oggi.

Questa nuova scelta onde differenziare dal punto di vista tecnico l'evoluzione, chiamando Vie Moderne quelle che vanno dal 1945 al 2000 e New Age le successive, delle quali tratteremo nella prossima sezione. Questa scelta rende, a mio avviso, più comprensibile il discorso dell'evoluzione soprattutto in rapporto alle idee, ai mezzi ed ai materiali usati. Ciononostante anche con questo procedimento si effettueranno degli "accavallamenti", che possiamo stimare come "anticipazioni"; pur esse logiche, a dimostrazione della grande fantasia e plasticità della mente umana.

Osvaldo Cardellina on the Black Triangle of the Emilius <i>3378m</i> (August 8th,1976)
MONTE EMILIUS vertical East Wall of 500m to Laures s Vallon
Antonio Ilario Garzotto ...
A long History ... Climbing on East Wall
Ilario Antonio Garzotto sul pulpito...
Estate 1946, la guida Piero Rosset ...
At the start of the crack (N-E arête)<br> of monte Emilius ( Aug 08, 1976)

First Ascents & Repetitions since 1945 until 2000

(M. Emilius, Testa Blantsette, Bca di Seneva, Pt. Emilius, Mont Ròss, Bca di Nona, La Dent, Pte del Lago Gelato, Trident de Comboé)

NOTE: Where the name is not indicated it is Monte Emilius

Summer, 1946: Aspirants Mountain Guides Valpelline's Pietro "Piero" Rosset and Aosta's Franco Garda first repetition E Wall, Gervasutti/Chabod of June 26th, 1935 Route in ascent from Les Laures with bivouac in Ernesto Ménabreaz Shelter/Blantsette Glacier.

February 1949: Aspirants Mountain Guides Pietro "Piero" Rosset and Franco Garda first Winter N-NE Edge in ascent from Pila/Comboé/Gros Scez or Grand Sax/Carrel Hill/Western and Eastern Arpisson's Glaciers/Blantsette or Blanchet Testa and Carving.

August 16th, 1955: Giovanni Matteo "Agostino" Zulian first solo on NE Ridge/N Edge; by Les Laures, Ernesto Menabreaz Hunting Shelter.

Spring/Summer 1958: Angelo "Angelino" Bozzetti, lone, NE Ridge up to the Black Triangle and traverse on E Wall, new route, in ascent in day from Pila/Comboé/Carrel Hill, two Arpisson's Glaciers/Testa Blansette & Blansette or Blanchet Pass or, better, small Carving.

September 10/11th, 1960: Valpelline's Mountain Guides Angelo "Angelino" Bozzetti and Pietro "Piero" Rosset first absolute on N Wall of Black Triangle, in ascent from Pila and in day by Comboé Alp (bivouac)/Carrel Hill/Western and Eastern Arpisson's Glaciers.

September 05th, 1961: Giovanni Matteo "Agostino" Zulian first climbing solo on E Wall ("Central Direct Via" in respect to June 26th, 1935 Route, with direct variants in final part), in ascent in day from Ménabreaz Hunting Shelter/Blantsette moraine and overlying Glacier.

Summer 1964: Renato Quendoz, lone; Becca di Nona N Wall (West Spur) first repetition, in day from Pila, Colle Plan Fenêtre, Morion Alp.

September 03th, 1964: Ilario Antonio Garzotto, Osvaldo Cardellina, Dario Sergio Cardellina and Arturo Jemma; Becca di Nona new route W-SW Slope (more Western Rib); in ascent directly in day from Pian Felina (569m), Reverier Dessous, Ponteilles, Comboé, Plan Valé.

In mid-Sixties Giovanni Matteo "Agostino" Zulian, lone; first ascent on Becca di Seneva E-NE Face; from Gr. Brissogne, L'Arp, Les Laures.

July 18th, 1965: Osvaldo Cardellina, Walter Ferronato, Ilario Antonio Garzotto and Luigi Neyroz with Variant under the S-SE Arête (Western Side through several snowfields and first small gullies); in descent. Ascent from Arbolle ancient Alp, E'cho' Loch, Gelato Lake.

July 24th, 1966: Ilario Antonio Garzotto, Dario Sergio Cardellina and Walter Ferronato, N Wall of Becca di Nona (Eastern little Couloir with direct exit out to the Summit); in day from Pian Felina Fraction, Reverier, Ponteilles, old Morion Alpage, round trip.

June 03th, 1967: Osvaldo Cardellina, lone; Western Ridge of Becca di Nona, with ascent in day from Pila, Chamolé Alp, Comboé, with diagonal traverse from Plan Valé to the North until reaching the watershed at the promontory 2.686 meters.

July 27th, 1967: Aosta's S.M.A. Soldier Gianni Pais Becher first lone on N Wall ("Left" or "East " Pillar", Crétier/Binel Route of August 21th, 1927), in ascent from Pila/Comboé/Carrel Hill with bivouac in Baron Beck Peckoz old Hunting Shelter/West Arpisson's Glacier.

August 02th, 1967: Osvaldo Cardellina and Massimo Centelleghe La Dent (2.736m) de la Becca di Nona (3.142m); frirst absolute ascent in day from Pila, Chamolé Alp, Lower Comboé, old Morion Alp, Western Slope and Southern Crest in the final part.

August 03th, 1967: Osvaldo Cardellina and Massimo Centelleghe, Becca di Nona N-NE Ridge (Variant on East Edge into the rocky initial plaque with various variations into East Face after the Great Tower 2.998m)); in ascent in two days from Pila, Low Comboé, Morion Alp.

June 22th, 1968: Osvaldo Cardellina and Renzo Botti with Variant on S Slope and S-SE Arête (Western Side, from the final part just below the Top up to the rocky spur at the base, completely just under the thread of ridge), in descent to Lago Gelato; ascent in day from Pila.

October 06th, 1968: Osvaldo Cardellina and Riccardo Botti, Becca di Seneva W Wall (left route): in day from Pian Felina (569m), Reverier, Ponteilles, Comboé, Plan Valé, Gros Scez, Carrel Pass, crossing Arpisson Glaciers under North Walls of Monte Emilius, Black Triangle.

October 13th, 1968: Osvaldo Cardellina, solo, first S Éperon of Little Emilius and W Arête, in ascent and in day after the ascent/descent on S-SE Crest of Monte Emilius with Marco Ceccarelli and Armando Poli, from Pila/Chamolé Pass, Arbolle Vallon/Boulders's Ponds.

July 10th, 1969: Osvaldo Cardellina and Bruno Pagliarin, in ascent in day from Pila, Colle Plan Fenêtre, Lower Comboé Pasture, Morion Alp; new via on N Wall of Becca di Nona (Eastern Side of East Pillar and exit out to the left on N-NE "Crestone" in terminal sector).

July 18th, 1969: Ilario Antonio Garzotto and Renato Quendoz E Wall (new route or "Right Via"); ascent in day from Ménabreaz Refuge.

July 24th, 1969: Osvaldo Cardellina, lone, first ascent of Northern and Southern (3242/50, 3238/45 meters about) Emilius's Three Capuchins, after the descent from Monte Emilius S-SE Crest with Renzo Botti, Riccardo Botti and Riccardo Camandona; in day from Pila.

August 24th, 1969: Ilario Antonio Garzotto and Osvaldo Cardellina, in ascent in day from Hamlets of Gorres-Saint Salò, Ponteilles Pasture, Morion old Alp (ruins); new via in N-NE Ridge of Becca di Nona (integral edge on the thread of watewrshed).

June 26th, 1970: Osvaldo Cardellina, lone; W-NW Ridge (Integral) of Becca di Nona; in day from Pila, Chamolé, Lower Comboé Pastures.

September 27th, 1970: Renato Quendoz and Giuseppe "Pino" Trevisan North Wall (new route on "Right Pillar" or "Western Pillar"), new route in right, and W Crest in final part, in ascent from Pila/Comboé/Carrel Hill with bivouac in Peckoz Shelter/Arpisson Western Glacier.

September 30th, 1971: Guido Matteotti E Wall lower and middle parts in respect to June 26th, 1935 Route, with diagonal ascent to the right or N-NW towards the superior part of N Edge, new route, in ascent and in day from Ernesto Ménabreaz Hut/Blantsette Glacier.

Aug 04th, 1974: Osvaldo Cardellina and Camillo Roberto Ferronato SW Buttress and W Arête (Trident of Comboé-Col de Comboé-Punte del Lago Gelato-Col Ròss-Mont Ròss de Comboé-Piccolo Emilius and W Ridge); in day from Pila, Chamolé Lake and Col/Arbolle Vallon.

August 16th, 1975: Charvensod's Mountaineer Ezio Donzel E Wall, new or "Left Direct Route", in South respect to Gervasutti - Chabod Route of June 26th, 1935, in ascent in day from Ménabreaz Shelter/Blantsette moraine and superior Blantsette Glacier.

July 11th, 1977: Osvaldo Cardellina and Camillo Roberto Ferronato W Slope of Ròss Pass, S-SW Arête on Mont Ròss of Comboé (about 3.285/3.301m); and W Crest through Little Emilius (3.342m); in day from Pila, Chamolé Alpage, Colle Plan Fenêtre, Comboé, Gros Scez.

December 23th, 1977: Osvaldo Cardellina and Camillo Roberto Ferronato, first winter on S-SW Slope (Alternative Standard Route); in day from Pila, Colle Plan Fenêtre, Comboé Vallon, Plan Valé, Gros Scez. In descent same route towards Comboé and Pila Resort.

July 17th, 1978: Osvaldo Cardellina, Camillo Roberto Ferronato and Giuseppe Lamazzi Becca di Nona E Face (Right Route double Variant into the Southern Sector, after a try in the same day more to the left); in ascent in day from Martsaouchy du Meitin, Arpisson two Alps.

September 24th, 1978: Osvaldo Cardellina and Camillo Roberto Ferronato new route on Becca di Nona N Wall (little rocky rib under the triangular snowfield and N-NE "Crestone" in final part); in day from Pila, Col Plan Fenétre, Comboé Pasture and Morion Alpages.

August 31th, 1980: Osvaldo Cardellina and Camillo Roberto Ferronato North Wall "Direct Via", new route in left by Binel - Chabod - Crétier of August 16th, 1926 and Binel - Crétier Routes August 21th, 1927, in ascent in day from Pila/Comboé/Carrel Hill/Arpisson's West Glacier.

July 23th, 1983: Alfredo Grappein, Dante Bibois and Ettore Grappein first repetition on Black Triangle of Bozzetti - Rosset Route of September 1960, in ascent from Col Carrel, Western, Eastern Arpisson Glaciers with bivouac on a detrital cone near Arpisson mini Pond.

Summer 1983: Roberto Arbaney and Danilo Chatrian first repetition on "Right Pillar" also "Western Pillar" of Quendoz - Trevisan Route of September 27th, 1970, in ascent from Pila/Comboé/ Grand Sax/Carrel Hill/old Peckoz Bivouac/Western Arpisson's Glacier.

July 08th, 1984: Osvaldo Cardellina first S-SW Slope through the Southern "Little Couloir", new route, in ascent and in day from Pila/Chamolé Col/Arbolle/Frozen Lake; in descent S-SE Ridge or Standard Route towards Lago Gelato and Arbolle Vallon.

July 28th, 1984: Osvaldo Cardellina and Camillo Roberto Ferronato; Sandrino "Lupetto" Casalegno and Maurizio Castellan North Wall "Superdirect Via", new route in left by the "Directb Route" of August 31th, 1980, in ascent in day from Pila/Comboé/Carrel Hill/Arpisson's Western Glacier. In descent Eastern Ridge or "Brissogne's Crest" to Blantsette, Glacier, Col and Testa with traverse on Eastern and Western Arpisson Glacier towards Federigo Zullo Bivouac; from this last to Gros Scez, Plan Valé, Comboé Alp, Colle Plan Fenétre, Pila.

December 30/31th 1984: Alberto Chéraz and Corrado Framarin North Wall first winter absolute and second repetition (third ascent) of Quendoz - Trevisan Route September 27th, 1970; from Pila/Comboé/Gros Scez/Carrel Hill/Peckoz Bivouac/Western Arpisson's Glacier.

June 30th, 1985: Alberto Sciardi N Wall (Central Gully, Falcoz - Mila Route of 1940?) first solo climbing of this face and second absolute lonely into the Northern Face; in ascent from Pila/Comboé/Plan Valé/Gros Scez or Grand Sax/Carrel Hill/Arpisson's Western Glacier. Descent, always lone, through the W-NW Ridge towards Mont Ròss de Comboé (about 3.285/3.301m), Col Ròss (3.091m), Comboé.

December 22th, 1985: first winter of N-NE "Crestone" of Becca di Nona, Alberto Sciardi, solo, in ascent from Pila, Low Comboé, Morion.

July 04th, 1986: Osvaldo Cardellina and Alessandro Cardellina (10 years old) first absolute on Emilius Central Capuchin (3250/60 meters about) via N Face, after the descent through Monte Emilius S-SE Crest or Normal Route ; in ascent from Pila, Arbolle, Frozen Loch.

October 11th, 1986: Osvaldo Cardellina and Danilo Garzotto W-SW "Great Pillar" to the right (East) by Corona - Defey - Comé Route of September 10th, 1875 and Western Crest ("Direct Line to Grey Jump Via"): from Pila, Chamolé Col, Arbolle, Frozen and Boulders's Lochs.

1985 or 1986 or 1987 ?: Carlo Lucianaz N-NE "Crestone" of Becca di Nona and traverse through Arpisson's two Glaciers to Emilius NE Ridge and N Edge in ascent and W-NW Arête in descent. From Charvensod (746 meters !) /Reverier Dessous/Ponteilles/Morion Alp.

July 05th, 1988: Osvaldo Cardellina, solo, first in ascent and probably first ? repetition of Bozzino with the wife Tina Via (in descent from Monte Emilius through the Western Ridge on September 12th, 1911). From Pila/Chamolé Hill/Arbolle/Boulders Ponds.

July 05th, 1988: Osvaldo Cardellina, solo, first in twice climbing to M. Emilius through a variant to the right or East in a gorge followed by a diagonal ramp to the NW (in respect to October 11th, 1986 Route or O. Cardellina - D. Garzotto Via), always from Boulders mini Ponds.

August 06th, 1988: Osvaldo Cardellina first on SE Wall above High Les Laures Valley; from Pila/Chamolé Col/Arbolle Vallon and with traverse West / East of "Three Capuchins Pass" and subsequent descent up to the beginning of face's base in highest Laures Valley.

December 31th, 1988 - January 01th, 1989: Abele Blanc and Carlo Lucianaz first Winter E Wall, from Ménabreaz Shelter nearby the Dessous Lake at the beginning of Laures Vallon, Blantsette's moraine and overlying Glacier, with bivouac just below the Summit.

June 10th, 1990: Osvaldo Cardellina, lone, first S Spur in left (West) by South "Little Gully" July 1984 and S-SW Slope; in ascent from Pila/Chamolé Pass/Arbolle Valley/Frozen Lake. In descent S-SE Crest or Standard to Three Capuchins Pass, Lago Gelato, Arbolle Vallon.

June 14th, 1990: Osvaldo Cardellina, solo, S-SW Slope through the "Southern Little Gully or Couloir", with first repetition: it has been done (on ), by with same route, starting always in day from Pila Resort/Chamolé Lake and Col/Arbole Vallon/Lago Gelato.

June 17th, 1990: Aldo Cambiolo and Pierluigi Sartore North Wall ("Couloir Fantasma"), icy gully between Black Triangle and "Mammellone Route" Ourla - Tosana of April 1942 and N Edge; in ascent from Federigo Zullo Bivouac/East and West Arpisson's Glaciers.

September 14th, 1990: Osvaldo Cardellina, lonely ascent on Testa or Mont Blantsette also Becca des Boucs (3.140m) W Wall (right route, direct): in day from Pila, Col Plan Fenêtre, Comboé, Gros Scez, Col Carrel, Federigo Zullo Bivouac, Arpisson Glaciers .

June 23th, 1991: Osvaldo Cardellina first? solo on W Arête by Col Ròss and through Mont Ròss de Comboé, Piccolo Emilius; in ascent from Pila/Comboé/Plan Valé and Western Slope of Róss Pass (3.091m). In descent "Three Capuchins Crest" or S-SE to Arbolle Valley.

Years '90: Mountain Guide Marco Champion and various companions, Testa Blantsette N-NE Edge, in descent above Peckoz Pass.

July 26th, 1992: Osvaldo Cardellina, lone; Becca di Seneva S-SW Arête (first integral from Peckoz Pass); from Pila, Col Plan Fenêtre, Comboé, Gros Scez, Col Carrel, Federigo Zullo Bivouac, Arpisson Glaciers, Peckoz Pass. In descent Normal Via below the thread.

October 04th, 1992: Osvaldo Cardellina, solo Via Corona - Defey - Comé of September 11th, 1875 first? repetition; in day from Pila, Chamolé Col, Arbolle Vallon, Boulders's Lochs. In descent by S-SE Crest to "Three Capuchins Pass", Gelato Lake, Col Ròss (3.081m).

May 30th, 1993: Osvaldo Cardellina, lone, Becca di Nona, first on Southern rocky Rib with very much snow; from Pila/Comboé/Plan Valé/fork near Gros Scez. In descent Col Carrel/Federigo Zullo Bivouac/Grand Sax/Plan Valé towards Comboé/Col de Fenêtre/Pila.

July 17/18th, 1993: Mountain Guides Aosta's Aldo Cambiolo and Parma's Roberta Vittorangeli with Aosta's mountaineers Roberto Lale and Fabrizio Villanis, Northern Wall of Black Triangle (3.378m) "Direct Route", two tries (two pitches with bad weather in second day) of opening a new direct and central route, both in ascent from Federigo Zullo Bivouac/Eastern and Western Arpisson's Glaciers.

July 31th, 1993: Mountain Guides Aosta's Parma's Roberta Vittorangeli and Aldo Cambiolo try on Northern Wall of Black Triangle (3.378m) "Direct Route"; in ascent from Pila/Comboé/Gros Scez/Federigo Zullo Bivouac/Eastern and Western Arpisson's Glaciers.

August 01th, 1993: U.V.G.A.M. Aosta's Aldo Cambiolo and Parma's Roberta Vittorangeli, N Wall of Black Triangle (3.378m) "Direct Route", new route and N Edge with bivouac near the Summit of Emilius's Triangle (3.378m), in ascent from Federigo Zullo Bivouac/Eastern and Western Arpisson's Glaciers, after a previous tries in the same year with the Aosta's mountaineers Roberto Lale and Fabrizio Villanis and by the same two Guides (by the "Book of Federigo Zullo Bivouac", since September 26th, 1992 until March 18th, 2007, pages 3, 5 and 7).

June 19th, 1994: Osvaldo Cardellina, Roy Cardellina and Danilo Garzotto; S Slope with Direct Line on S-SW "Ribbing pear-shaped" to the left by "Sinuous Pillar" and in right (East) by Cardellina - Garzotto Via of October 11th, 1986; in day from Pila, Chamolé Col, Arbolle Vallon.

June 30th, 1995: Osvaldo Cardellina, solo, NE Pillar and E Arête: (Variant from Blantsette Glacier to "Brissogne Ridge): in ascent from Pila, Comboé, Carrel Hill, Federigo Zullo Bivouac, Arpisson Western and Eastern Glaciers, Testa and Col Blantsette to Blantsette Glacier.

August 10th, 1995: Osvaldo Cardellina and Alessandro Cardellina Southern "Rib of double Red Turrets" on Western Ridge (about 3.450/60m) of Monte Emilius just to the left or West by Via Corona - Defey - Comé of September 11th, 1875 and terminal part through the Western Crest; in day, Pila, Chamolé Lake and Col, Arbolle Vallon up to the Boulders's mini Ponds.

June 16th, 1996: Osvaldo Cardellina first W-NW Crest/Eperon of Frozen Loch Points (Punte del Lago Gelato 3113/15m); in descent first route on S-SE Face and crossing to Ròss Pass, in ascent from Pila/Comboé/Plan Valé, and traverse in South before the Gros Scez.

June 23th, 1996: Osvaldo Cardellina, lone, Becca di Nona, first repetition on Southern rocky Rib in a violent storm and with very much snow; from Pila/Comboé/Plan Valé/fork near Gros Scez. In descent Col Carrel/Federigo Bivouac towards Comboé/Col de Fenêtre/Pila.

July 04th, 1996: Osvaldo Cardellina, lone; new route on East Face of Becca di Nona (Left Route into the Southern Sector); from Federigo Zullo Boivouac after descent from the Top through E-NE Ridge and in ascent after traverse in North from small fork about 2.880 meters.

July 12th, 1996: Osvaldo Cardellina Ines Alasonatti and Giuseppe Lamazzi, Becca di Nona N Wall (Western Side of East Pillar), new route into East side with ascent in day from Ponteilles, Morion Alp; in descent to Federigo Zullo Bivouac, Gros Scez, Comboé, Ponteilles.

July 23th, 1996: Osvaldo Cardellina with Giulio De Ceglie (this last Normal Via), Becca di Nona, second repetition on Southern rocky Rib; from Pila/Comboé/Plan Valé/fork near Gros Scez. In descent Col Carrel/Federigo Zullo Bivouac towards Comboé/Col de Fenêtre/Pila.

July 1998: Christian Gianni Ilario Cardellina second lonely climbing on N Wall through "Left Pillar" or East Pillar" (Binel - Crétier Route of August 21th, 1927) and 3° absolute solitary climbing of North Wall, in ascent from Pila/Comboé/Carrel Hill Western Arpisson Glacier.

August 09th, 1998: Osvaldo Cardellina N Wall first on "Right Gully", new route to the right (West) by Quendoz - Trevisan Via of September 27th, 1970 Via and fourth absolute lonely climbing of wall; in ascent and in day from Pila/Comboé/Carrel Pass/Western Arpisson Glacier.

June 06th, 1999: Osvaldo Cardellina first W Wall of Mont Ròss de Comboé (3.285/3.301m) and traverse to Little or Piccolo Emilius, in ascent from Pila/Colle Plan Fenêtre (2.221/29m)/Comboé/Plan Valé and crossing before the squared boulder of Gros Scez (2526m).

June 27th, 1999: Osvaldo Cardellina, lone; Becca di Nona N Wall first and Direct Via on Central Couloir (between the two great twins spurs of 1920 and 1940 old routes); in ascent in day from Les Pousses, Ponteilles, Lower Comboé, old Morion Alp (ruines).


EMILIUS's GROUP from Northwest


Since 2001 until 2021 Years


As already said, the new climbs, which distinguish this last period, they bring something new even sull'Emilius. Materials newer and more sophisticated allow climbing in practice impossible to do previously with the old ice ax "cut" and crampons mixed, that is, with the points facing down. Already here there had been a slow evolution with the transition from 8 bits to 10 and finally to 12, but would seem to directed to a technique in diagonal and lateral progression of ice, after carving steps. As for ice screws, semi-tubular and practically useless as to cause, yes and no idea of ​​security exclusively psychological, of the fifties in the next sixties began to see those screw, similar to the Stubai of tirabouchons; more there in the seventies appear Salewa tubular screwing in the round outer and inner hole to accommodate the ice, which then will have to make one with the same nail becoming one with the ice. Regarding the ax are witnessing an attempt to patent a new Grivel tested by Franco Garda at Rifugio Monzino on either side of Glaciers Brouillard and of Freney. The experience of the young people in the Youth Mountaineering Courses held here in 08/07/1966. Will not have a great success, because the solution of the tool to cut the beak-shaped ax does not solve any problem, while remaining a cutting technique for progression into ice. The novelty in the news: some small serrated teeth on the tool that were already intuit something about future developments, but for the moment there were only a hunch and something that, at least from an aesthetic, stimulated the concept of owning something more of adjuvant. A small + X. But until then, even for the most talented, the steps beyond a certain slope (let's say 70/5°) were solved using the "Artificial" by means of nails, hoping for the best, and brackets; were no longer in rope hemp but incidentally as synthetic ropes, continuous improvement to deal with the loads of the fall with "jerk".
It will take the climb by Walter Cecchinel in the mid-seventies, in the small canal on the North between the two to make Dru turn the page.
Thus was born the technique of piolet-traction, or progression "cut" to go to that anchor and propelled by the force of arms to carry out one traction, the crampon is passing on the support (a technique stupid and tiring) penetration into the ice with the two front points, which have been transformed addressing the horizontal axis, thus acting as real nails. This preamble is to understand the need for a correct implementation of certain existing streets, practically impossible up to thirty years past.
We'll talk, returning to the theme on Emilius.




Come già dicevamo, le nuove salite, che contraddistinguon quest'ultimo periodo, portano qualcosa di nuovo anche sull'Emilius. Materiali più recenti e maggiormente sofisticati permettono scalate in pratica impossibili a farsi in precedenza con le vecchie piccozze "a taglio" ed i ramponi da misto, ovvero con le punte rivolte in basso. Già qui v'era stata una lenta evoluzione con il passaggio dalle 8 punte alle 10 ed infine alle 12, ma sembre rivolte ad una tecnica in ghiaccio di progressione diagonale e laterale, previo intaglio di gradini. In quanto ai chiodi da ghiaccio, semitubolari e praticamente inutili tali da arrecare, si e no, un'idea di sicurezza esclusivamente psicologica, degli Anni Cinquanta nei successivi Sessanta si incominciavano a vedere quelli a vite, gli Stubai simili a dei tirabouchons; più in là negli Anni Settanta appaiono i tubolari Salewa con avvitamento a tutto tondo esterno e foro interno per accogliere il ghiaccio, che poi dovrà far corpo unico con il chiodo medesimo diventando un tutt'uno con il medesimo. Riguardo alla piccozza assistiamo ad un tentativo di novità con un brevetto della Grivel provato da Franco Garda al Rifugio Monzino sui due laterali Ghiacciai di Brouillard e di Freney. Lo sperimenteranno i giovani nei Corsi di Alpinismo Giovanile qui svolti nel 1966/7/8. Non avrà un grande successo, perché la soluzione di tagliare il becco dell'attrezzo a forma di ascia non risolve alcun problema, rimanendo sempre una tecnica di taglio per la progressione in ghiaccio. La novità nella novità: alcuni dentini seghettati sull'attrezzo di già facenti intuire un presagio sugli sviluppi futuri, ma che pel momento rimanevano solo un'intuizione ed un qualcosa che, almeno dal lato estetico, stimolava il concetto di possedere un qualcosa in più di coadiuvante. Un piccolo + X. Ma sino ad allora, anche per i più bravi, i passaggi oltre una certa pendenza (diciamo i 70/5°) andavano risolti con la tecnica "Artificiale" per mezzo di chiodi, sperando in bene, e staffe; non eran più in corda di canapa ma in sintetico come daltronde le corde, in continuo miglioramento per affrontare i carichi della caduta con "strappo".
Ci vorrà la salita di Walter Cecchinel, a metà degli Anni Settanta, nel canalino sulla Nord tra i due Dru a fare svoltare pagina.
Nasce così la tecnica del piolet-traction, ovvero dalla progressione "a taglio" si passa a quella di ancoraggio e propulsione per mezzo della forza delle braccia nell'effettuar una trazione; il rampone corrisponde passando dall'appoggio (una tecnica balorda e faticosa) alla penetrazione nel ghiaccio con le due punte anteriori, trasformatesi indirizzandosi sull'asse orizzontale e fungendo quindi da veri e propri chiodi. Questo preambolo risulta neccessario onde far comprendere la realizzazione di certe vie attuali, praticamente impossibili fino ad un Trentennio passato.
Ne parleremo, tornando in tema sull'Emilius.

First Ascents & Repetitions since 2001 until 2021

(M. Emilius, Testa Blantsette, Bca di Seneva, Pt. Emilius, Mont Ròss, Bca di Nona, La Dent, Pte del Lago Gelato, Trident de Comboé)

NOTE: Where the name is not indicated it is Monte Emilius

October 23th, 2005: first repetition of July 10th, 1969 Via ( Osvaldo Cardellina and Bruno Pagliarin Route) on Becca di Nona: Osvaldo Cardellina, solo; in day from Reverier Dessus, Le Champex, Les Gorres, Les Leyzères, Les Pousses, Ponteilles, Morion ancient Alps.

July 18th, 2006: Osvaldo Cardellina, solo, SW Face of P.te del Lago Gelato (3113/15m); in ascent from Pila, Comboé, Col Plan Fenêtre, Comboé Alpage and Grand Plan ancient Pasture (ruines), with descent through South Crest to Comboé Pass and subsequent crossing.

July 27th, 2006: first repetition of the Variant August 02th, 1967 of Becca di Nona N-NE "Crestone": Vincent Bianchi and Marco Gaida; integrally from Martsaouchy Damon Pasture, Plan Croix Alp, bypassing the "Becca Tooth" to the right or through the Western Slope.

October 18/19th, 2006: Ezio Marlier and Rossano Libera NW Wall or, better, NW Edge (just amongst Bozzetti - Rosset of September 1960 and Cambiolo - Vittorangeli August 1990 and Cambiolo Sartore June 1990 Routes) of Black Triangle Route up to a little rocky notch between Triangle's Teeths and N Edge in final part (Way baptized by the first climbers as "Bocconi amari" also "Senza Parole"), new route, in ascent from Federigo Zullo Bivouac/Western and Eastern Arpisson's Glaciers; difference in level 400 meters; (V°/M7/WI6/); ED.

October 28th, 2006: Osvaldo Cardellina, lone, S Slope ("Large Pillar"- Southern Slope and Western Ridge in final part); in day from Pila, Chamolé's Lake and overlying Pass, Arbolle Vallon, Lago Gelato. In descent S-SE Crest or Standard Route to "Three Capuchins Pass".

November 06/07th, 2006: Roger Schàli (CH) and Robert Jasper (D) first repetition on Black Triangle NW Edge (R. Libera - E. Marlier Via of October 18/19th, 2006); in descent through NW Ridge along "Via Ferrata" 2004" towards Little Emilius (3.342m), Mont Ròss de Comboé (about 3.285/3.301m), Federigo Zullo Bivouac (2.907m) on Col Carrel (2.916m), Gros Scez or Grand Sax (2.526m), Comboé Vallon, Pila.

November 18/19th, 2006: Ezio Marlier N Wall Right or West Route (Way baptized by the first climber as "Spirito Libero" or "Free Spirit"), new route just to the right by West Gully (O. Cardellina Via August 09th, 1998); in ascent from Federigo Bivouac/West Arpisson Glacier.

March 20th, 2007: Osvaldo Cardellina, lone, first winter ascent on Northern Wall of Becca di Nona by Ourlaz 1940 Route; in ascent in day from Pila/Col Plan Fenêtre/Lower Comboé/Morion Alp (ruines); in descent towards Carrel Pass/Federigo Zullo Bivouac/Comboé/Pila.

July 03th, 2007: Osvaldo Cardellina, lone; Becca di Nona S-SE Face (little wall above Gros Scez); from Pila, Comboé, Plan Valé, Gr. Scez.

July 07th, 2007: Osvaldo Cardellina, lone, S-SW Face on "Sinuous Little Pillar", in West by "Large Pillar", and Southern Slope in final part (Direct Diagonal Line to Summit); in day from Pila Parking, Chamolé Loch and Col, Arbolle Vallon, Lago Gelato. In descent through the "Great Couloir" on Southern Slope (Abbot Henry - Reverend Bionaz - Charvensod's Mountain Guide Comé Route of September 02th, 1902).

August 23th, 2007: Osvaldo Cardellina, solo; Becca di Nona E-NE Wall of East Face (Right Route into North Sector to "Great Tower" 2998 meters); in ascent from Revererier Dessous Pastures, Martsauchy Damon Alps, Plan Croix old Alp, Arpisson Lower and Higher Pastures.

September 05th, 2007: Osvaldo Cardellina, lone; Becca di Nona E-NE Edge of East Face (Left Route into the North Sector to "Le Pouce's Collar" about 3.055/65m)); in ascent from Revererier Dessous, Martsauchy Damon, Plan Croix, Arpisson Lower and Higher Pastures.

September 16th, 2007: Osvaldo Cardellina, solo; Becca di Seneva N-NE Wall: in ascent from Grand Brissogne, Gramonenche Pasture.

September 16th, 2007: Osvaldo Cardellina, solo; Becca di Seneva (3.086m) NE Edge; in descent to Les Laures Vallon, Gran Brissogne.

October 07th, 2007: Osvaldo Cardellina, lone, Trident de Comboé W-NW Eperon (S-SW Summit 3.057m); in ascent from Pila, Comboé and Gran Plan Alps with traverse of the three Summits (3083m, 3071m, 3057m), round trip; in descent towards Arbole or Arbolle Shelter.

October 11th, 2007: Osvaldo Cardellina, lone; Becca di Nona N Wall (West Couloir); ascent in day from Saint Salò, Ponteilles, Morion Alp.

October 14th, 2007: Osvaldo Cardellina, lone; Becca di Nona S-SW Couloir (third rocky channel from right or East; in ascent in day from Les Pousses, Ponteilles Alps, Comboé Vallon, Plan Valé and just over the squared Gros Scez on Southwestern Slope of Carrel Pass.

December 31th, 2007: Osvaldo Cardellina, first new mixed route on N-NW Wall of Becca di Nona (3.142m), through the West-northwest Face of promontory 2.686m and W-NW Ridge in middle and final part; in ascent in day from Ponteilles Alp and Lower Comboé.

May 01th, 2008: Osvaldo Cardellina, lone, N-NW Face of Punte del Lago Gelato, in day from Pila/Plan of Fenêtre Hill/Plan Valé Tableland and crossing to the South at the base of wall; in descent North Crest to Col Ròss (3.091m) and from this West Slope towards Gros Scez.

June 05th, 2008: Osvaldo Cardellina, lonely and first climb with partial route on Becca di Nona N Wall, through W Edge of Great Tower 2.998m and N-NE Ridge; in ascent in day from Pila, Col Plan Fené tre, Comboé Pasture and after traverse towards Morion ancient Alp.

July 10th, 2008: Osvaldo Cardellina, lone, Testa Blansette NE Face; in day from Grand Brissogne, L'Arp, Vieille, Tramouail, Les Laures.

July 10th, 2008: T. Blantsette (3.140m) E-NE Edge: Osvaldo Cardellina, lone; in descent to Les Laures Vallon; in day after the ascent from Grand Brissogne Municipality, Gramonenche Pastures, L'Arp, Vieille Alpage, Tramouail, Les Laures Valley and NE Wall of the same.

September 27th, 2009: Osvaldo Cardellina, lone, SE Wall "S-S-E Rib" and E Crest in final part, new route to the right (East) by August 06th, 1988 Via; in day from Pila, traverse West / East of "Three Capuchins Pass" at the base of face. In descent E-SE Crest or Normal Via.

Oct 07th, 2009: Osvaldo Cardellina, lone, S Slope (S-SW Wall on "Little Broken Pillar" in right (East) by Route of July 05th, 1988 and diagonal crossing to NE on Southern Slope up to the small round saddle just before the Summit; in day from Pila Resort, Chamolé's Lake and Pass, Arbolle Vallon, Lago Gelato. In descent Standard Route or "Three Capuchins Crest" towards Lago Gelato, Arbolle Shelter, Pila.

October 10th, 2011: Osvaldo Cardellina, lone; Becca di Seneva (3.086m) W Face, first repetition on left of 1897 Route to Northern Turret also Lo Cordagnì or Lo Cordagnë (by E. Daniele, G. B. Devalle, A. Pession and L. Bich, on August 29th, 1897, starting from Arpisson ancient Alp). On 2011 otherwise starting from Reverier Dessous-Rongachet-Gorrettaz-Martsaouchy Damon-Plan Croix-Arpisson Alps.

October 12th, 2011: Osvaldo Cardellina, solo; Becca di Seneva W Wall ("Right Via" or new route on October 2011 with Direct Via to Summit): from Reverier Dessous Pastures-Martsaouchy Damon Alp-Plan Croix ancient Alp (ruins)-Lower and Superior Arpisson Pastures. In descent through S-SW Ridge to Eastern Arpisson Glacier and directly towards "Emilius's Sources"and Arpisson Alps.

April 13th, 2015: Snowboarder Aosta's Davide Capozzi and Chamonix's Mountain Guide Julien Henry first descent by snowboard of three quarters (about 430 meters, with 55°/50°/45°/42°), of NW Couloir into Emilius's North Wall; in day from Pila, Comboé Vallon, Plan Valé Tableland, Gros Scez, Carrel Pass near Federigo Zullo Bivouac, Western, Eastern Arpisson Glaciers, Blantsette Testa and Pass, NE Crest up to the small notch about 3.770 meters just after the Black Triangle and by two initial rappels (six hours from Pila, difficulty: 5.2 E4).

January 08th, 2020: Courmayeur's Snowboarders Davide Capozzi and Aosta's Alessandro Letey first descent by snowboard and by ski of SW Face of Trident de Comboé Southwestern Summit (about 3.083 meters; through descent of about 480/500 meters, with 40°/45°, difficulty: 4.3 E3); in day from Pila Resort, Comboé Vallon, Comboé Alpage and Grand Plan ancient Pasture (ruines).

August 21th, 2020: Mountain Guides Valerio Stella, Stefano Cordaro and Lorenzo Di Francesco first direct ascent on right sector (North) of Monte Emilius East Wall "Giordi Via" * (,about 500 meters TD+, 6b+ max, 6a obl.) dedicated to mountaineer of Alpine Troops Maurizio Giordano, died July 11th, 2018 on Gaserbrum IV°; from Ernesto Menabreaz Shelter. Climbing realized after three tries since 2017.

August 27th, 2020: Mountain Guides and Instructors S.M.A. (Aosta's Military Alpine School) Denis Trento and Andrea Parisi first repetition of direct ascent on right sector (Northern) of Monte Emilius East Wall "Giordi Via" of August 21th, 2020; in day from Ernesto Menabreaz Shelter (2.546 meters) nearby Dessous Lake into the lower Les Laures Valley (Grand Brissogne Municipality).

July 02th, 2021: Alpine Guides Instructor Matteo Giglio with Mountain Guides Valgrisenche's Roger Bovard, Courmayeur's Niccolò Bruni and Arnad's Andrea Bergamelli second repetition Monte Emilius Eastern Wall right sector (North) "Giordi Via"; in day from Menabreaz Shelter (2.546 meters) in the Eastern shore of Dessous Lake (2.544 meters; Grand Brissogne Municipality) into the lower Laures Vallon.

August 06th, 2021: Mountain Guide and Instructor S.M.A. (Aosta's Military Alpine School) Davide De Podestà and Instructor S.M.A Diego Dal Maso third repetition of direct ascent on right sector or Northern Zone Monte Emilius East Wall "Giordi Route; in day from Ernesto Menabreaz Shelter (2.546 meters) nearby the Dessous Loch (2.546 meters) at the Laures Vallon (Grand Brissogne Municipality).

September 05th, 2021: Marco Guido Pernechele and Cecina's Aspiring Mountain Guide Marco Bernardini first repetition on M. Emilius North Wall (Cardellina - Ferronato Route of August 31th, 1980) from Pila, Plan Valé (2.379m); Gros Scez, Col Carrel, Federigo Bivouac.


From Ancient Centuries to NEWAGE





Starting since 1985 with the solo ascent of Alberto Sciardi in the Central Canal to the demarcation between the forty years after the war and what we call the New Age. Meanwhile, a rise of Charles Lucianaz departing from Charvensod, he does not remember whether in 1985 or 1986 or 1987 marks even better this trait d'union between an "old" Mountaineering and a New Age business. Our part of his land (about 700 meters), rises to the Falls and Reverier Ponteilles, continues to Morion under the North "Becca", the scale for the Way NE Crestone Crétier 1926 through the two Glaciers dell'Arpisson continues for the N-NE corner of Emilius and go down the West Ridge-northwest and then come back home safely, ie Charvensod. Fully in line with the philosophy of the past, and this Mondini in 1902, of "Dulo" Ourlaz with his wife in 1940 but with half path in reverse, with all the great climbs of the past. And yet it was he who set to Himalayst Abele Blanc (one of the first men in the world to climb all 14 eight-thousanders and twice Everest) to open, always in our view, a new era with the first winter at East Wall, January 01th, 1989. Birth of the New Age.
Logically, this is the New Age for Emilius, because what appears to be a novelty here, the groups of the most famous mountains is already passed by ten years. If enough. Refined the technique and the large veins exhausted available, you go to browse in the small operating adequate transference. Having said this might appear diminutive, but it would be a big mistake, because here there are no walls "simple", there are granite blocks, there are no easy positioning for nails or related insurance. They are, at least those of the North and the East, rustic walls that would require "wrist" and for which it is well to quote the whole day. Ask those who made ​​them. Summer and Winter.
These last two climbs named in same time that close the discourse with the past by opening one with the future. In fact, while with the crossing, let's call it, the Head of Emilius Northern practically circumnavigating the High Vallon dell'Arpisson, affirming the validity of the ascents of the past, with the first Winter on the East Wall opens up to more challenging climbs. Not that the first Winter of Chéraz/Framarin, at the end of '84, on the North Wall Via Quendoz/Trevisan September 1970 is underestimated, but this is more homogeneous in the difficulties that maintain continuity on the IV° for all 500 meters of the climb, the 'other, while in the harsh environment of the Northern Slope of 650 meters of climb presents difficulties of this kind for a little more than about 150 meters, while offering some forty meters higher difficulty (V°/V°+). Together with the first repeat of Bozzetti/Rosset September 1960 on the Black Triangle in July of '83, by the three "Cogneins", is a foretaste of the coming and there are both considered, for the time then, a little like two eggs made ​​out of the basket. In the following we have confirmation of the long dissertation previously performed: in June the rope of Valpelline's Mountain Guide Aldo Cambiolo with the young Pierluigi Sartore realizes the Way of the "Couloir Ghost." A gully about 250 meters located between the Black Triangle and the big "Mammellone" coming down from the North to "split" into two parts the small Glacier of th'Arpisson. It is a delicate and dangerous climb, which is carried by the two in the night hours, when the thin wire of ice that indicates the line of ascent is more compact and "fail". The climb with gradients up to 80° and over, who are overcome with the technique of piolet-traction, the same ends to the east of airy spire at the beginning of "Mammellone" itself. Above is dealt with that part of the wall that leads to the "5 Fingers" upstream from the Top of the triangle, distance already traveled by Ourlaz/Tosana in the Spring of '42; conclude at the Peak through the Northeast Corner. In reality, this is a climb outside of the Black Triangle, which forms, topographically speaking, a body in its own right, just beyond the East, not even belong to the Northwest of the same wall (the one that will be made ​​in October 2006 by the roped Marlier/Libera), but is the logical continuation vertically from the Summit of the North Wall, broken from that '"original Mammellone" that separates it from this, giving rise to the characteristic large couloir diagonally to over 400 meters form a large, but dangerous, funnel. This collects 90% of the discharges of stones and ice, including the summit frame, while the "Phantom Couloir" directly receives the remainder. To the wise ... Building on this success, the first back in the "neighborhood" to combine something new. After two failed attempts in the month of July, the first day of August, along with the good Mountain Guide of Parma (but then it was not yet Guide) Roberta Vittorangeli creates a direct route on the North Face of the Black Triangle. The start takes place right Sketches of the Via Bozzetti/Rosset '60 along a dihedral sulfur, visible from below, and always very athletic with steps ranging from IV° to VII° we arrive at the crossing of Via 1960, about two-thirds of the wall near a tiny snowfield, which disappears in the summer; leaving this to the right (West) and continue almost vertically with successive steps of 6a/IV°/VI° exits on rocks easier to III° on the Noth-northeast Edge and to the left of the "Cannon of Summit ". The leader must conclude camp out for the day after the climb along the same. The Route of 1960 came in at most steps of V°+ with one in Artificial (A1) of about twenty meters, but do not forget that climbed in boots and even the fact that "Angelino" was a Magician Climbing.
Then a period of time in which great things do not happen. A solo ascent of Osvaldo Cardellina of a long and unexplored Crest W-NW of Lago Gelato Points performed to June 1966, and not difficult, but challenging for the abundant snow still exists. And we get to 1998, the year in which you register three remarkable events: July Cardellina Christian makes the first repetition solitary of the Via Crétier/Binel 1927, after that of Gianni Pais Becher in July of '67, and the third absolute solitary wall after itself and that of Alberto Sciardi in the Central Couloir in June '85. Climb in line with the past, while his father Osvaldo, not to be outdone, August 9 rooms only Couloir West, just to the right of the Via Quendoz/Trevisan '70, and this new way is the search for something different from those of the past. At least most challenging and thrilling. The environment is even more wild and dangerous and the output takes place on the West Ridge, where the same now in 1974, had made to circumvent the "Jump Grey" coming from the South-southwest Buttress, along with Camillo Roberto Ferronato. In the midst of these two climbs an event more "quiet", but not least: July 19th is the opening of the Refuge Arbolle at the namesake lake. It will change the influx of climbers in this area has always been not too crossed and balance in the relationship people/mountain, making the arrival of the mass.
Still June 6th, 1999 a small hill with a virgin West Face of Mount Ròss of Comboé, triangle and between the two ridges now ran from the Hill Carrel Northwest and Southwest from Col Ross with relative crossing the Little Emilius, which would constitute a early variant of the West Ridge (since 2004 "Via Ferrata"). It was in this year is made by the Guides on "Order" Community Mount Emilius this "work" which, in our opinion only disfigures the mountain and is a source of danger and safety. Where in over a century had passed 12 a group of roped climbers, now we witness the passing crowds of climbers and no. More or less prepared and aware of the environment that must be faced. With good or bad weather. So much has everything under control. In safety. There is also the panneau with a lot of prescriptions and advice, but take it well distanced from all liability. I think that article is much more than half a century ago on "Tuttosport" signed by Emanuele Cassara: "The ax is not for everyone." In fact, it is already a disgrace ...


The B&V BOOK "Guide of the Western Alps" 1896


Three other important events occurring in 2005/6 with the publication in March 2005 of the Guide "Emilius Rosa dei Banchi Parco del M.Avic" by Giulio Berutto (+ Turin 2005) and Lino Fornelli, Publishers joint C.A.I./T.C.I. in the Series "Guide to the Mountains of Italy". The same follows, after almost thirty years, the primitive opera "Guide of Monte Emilius" of Osvaldo Cardellina, Edited by him in collaboration with the Section of the C.A.I. Aosta in December 1978, the same, in turn, filled a void of eighty-two (just 82!) years from another publication, that he spoke in an organic and descriptive entire group. Supported by the late President of the Section Toni Ortelli, had also had a super vision by the same.
The work demonstrates a knowledge of the territory from the author of a good 50% with asensioni and personal tours of ridges and walls and more than 80% with the base paths, other issues arise from the same economic hardships, assisted only generous intervention of the President of the Section with the purchase of 800 copies printed on 3000. Hence the impossibility of going beyond a certain badget with renunciation, for example, the execution of sketches with relative tracking of existing routes. The single is one that represents the North Wall of Emilius, performed by Marco Surveyor Cossard, to whom we owe well as four small cards together.
The monumental work of Giovanni and Luigi Bobba Vaccarone Edited by the Section of Turin in May 1896, was divided into two volumes and covered the Alps from the Maritime Alps to Monte Rosa, the first was the same and the Cottian Alps, while the second is divided into two parts which concerned the Graian and Pennine. In Vol II, Part Two, we treated the "The Valleys of Aosta, Biella. Sesia and the Ossola" in Part One of the Authors had turned, following a criterion of description clockwise to the "Valli Lanzo and Canavese". And this is, in short, the "Guide of the Western Alps", the very foundation for any work beyond to come, including the prestigious "Necklace of Monti of Italy" in combination Edited by C.A.I./T.C.I. in 1934 and still today not completed at all. In this long space of time was still the C.A.I. that came to meet the climbers with its "Monthly Magazine", a true source of information and news relating to the mountains and mountaineering, other publications were occasional, if we do not consider the works foreign. The limit of this great work is precisely that of its size, or the "coverage" of an immense territory which is not found in most any other work, at least in Italy. In our opinion the knowledge of the places does not exceed 1% with ascents personal and should not be more than 5% with analyzes carried out from below, and the rest is derived from informations received or readings in existence, a few for the truth. Despite the above, we always refer to the Group of Emilius and around logically, if it is not detailed, certainly accurate.
Perhaps driven by these publications Ezio Marlier Mountain Guide of Cogne, but resident in Pollein, performs two beautiful business: the first in October 2006 with Rossano Libera climbing the Wall Northwest of the Black Triangle, and the second with a solo ascent on the unexplored area to the right of the West Couloir, in November next. The first will get a snapshot repetition by the strong Swiss-German couple Schäli Roger and Robert Jasper, that assess the way very hard, interesting and in a wild environment; fall called the "Via Ferrata".
The analyze calmly, connecting us to what is done in the "First Part" of this complex work the listing and evaluation of Routes:
(2) N Wall and W Arête (Right Route-"Spirito Libero" - "Free Spirit",new route): Ezio Marlier, solo; Nov 18/19th, 2006; diff. in level 720m (610+110m); (IV°, 4, M4); TD-/TD.
(13) *** North-NorthWest Face ("Senza Parole" – "Bocconi Amari", new route): Rossano Libera and Ezio Marlier; Oct 25/26th, 2006; first repetition Nov 06/07th, 2006; Roger Schàli (CH) and Robert Jasper (D); d. in lev. 400m; (V°/M7/WI6/); ED.




As you can see, completely changes the way to classify and evaluate the difficulties overcome by inserting new and existing acronyms.
Let's start from the guide saying that, after the publication of the "Guide of Monte Emilius", 1978 were no longer publications on Mount Emilius, if not the odd article here and there, in magazines. Nothing completely organic and analytically. The publication of Berutto/Fornelli, to whom I worked from 1998 to 2005 as part cocerne entrusted to Lino Fornelli, has two aspects, one of which is very positive and another, unfortunately, negative. Start with the best part, that is, that this work is really a dream that could have seen the light. It covers a large area, which goes far beyond that of the previous guidance that came to a halt, as was incidentally in the intentions of the author, as Saint Marcel Hill and thus concerned only the Group of Emilius. This hand sweeps over an area much larger that transcends the boundaries of Valley of Aosta and describes large areas of the Southeast Graian Alps. Unfortunately the great expansion in research constitutes a limit to the same; factor even more emphasized by the death of one of the two authors, before it could be completed. In fact, the friend Giulio Berutto, known shortly before the Col Pontonnet will not be able to see his work, due to an illness. And this is very sad, because it makes it clear that Death dominates also the largest of the Passions. That day, Julius came from Mont Glacier with a friend. Without preamble we knew who we were, as we had always known. He and I. His departure makes it clear that some parts of his work had been suspended. Forever? Let's hope not. I am not to list all the positives of this work, for which I would not bet a penny on publication. The tenacity and enthusiasm of Lino Fornelli, who was not a twenty year old, however, has prevailed. And what are the infinitely grateful. Emilius poor, even for you now is the time to get out of semi anonymity, where not deserve to be placed. The negative part of the work? Surely the rush (I think it subsisted a serious risk of failure to publish) in having to edit resulting in a lack of a thorough reading of the draft. We show that there are several formal errors of dating, character names, etc... While some substantial, fortunately few in number, making it more difficult interpretation of the speech, including sketches. But there's a saying that who makes no mistakes makes nothing ...
From this moment all the work appeared in SP is a complete, review, correct, fully these three publications, with the advantage that, while a book can not be revised except by a subsequent edition, in these three cases unlikely or there to come in a very long space of time, these can be done in a timely manner in the present modus operandi". Which is not little, especially for climbers, providing a virtually indispensable support in the actuality and accuracy of information. Lately, that is, from August 2021, the splendid volume "Emilius - Avic" appeared by two young people from Parma (Andrea Greci - Federico Rossetti, Collanavienormali valle d'aosta 3, IDEA MONTAGNA EDITORIA E ALPINISMO Villa di Teolo - PD), which enriches the bibliography concerning the Southeastern sector of the Graian Alps; in particular with the itineraries from number 124 (page 335) to number 163 (page 435) concerning the smaller area of Mount Emilius Group.
It is always said that who said that if he had not reported Whymper ascension to the Matterhorn, mountain climbing would never have seen the light.

28 luglio 1984: at the base of the North face<br> of monte Emilius <i>3559m</i>
On the N face of monte Emilius <i>(3559m)</i><br> about 450 meters from the bergschrund
During the second ascent  of the Direttissima route of the N face of Monte Emilius
 N face of Monte Emilius: Osvaldo Cardellina<br> on the slab rated UIAA IV (July 28, 1984)
 N face of Monte Emilius:  on the IV move<br> about 480 meters from the bergschrund
Monte Emilus (3559 m.) parete...
<font color=green><b>EMILIUS s</FONT> <FONT COLOR=BLUE>NORTH Face, Direct Line Route</font></b> August 1980
A partire dal 1985 con la salita solitaria di Alberto Sciardi nel Canale Centrale per effettuare la demarcazione tra il Quarantennio dopo la guerra e quella che definiamo New Age. Nel frattempo una salita di Carlo Lucianaz con partenza da Charvensod, lui stesso non si ricorda se nel 1985 o 1986 oppure 1987 segna ancora meglio questo trait d'union tra un "vecchio" Alpinismo ed una Nuova Età di imprese. Il nostro parte dal suo paese (700 metri circa), sale a Reverier ed alle Cascate di Ponteilles, continua al Morion sotto la Nord della "Becca", scala il Crestone NE per la Via Crétier 1926, attraversa i due Ghiacciai dell'Arpisson, continua per lo Spigolo N-NE dell'Emilius e scende per la Cresta Ovest-nordovest; poi torna tranquillamente a casa, ossia a Charvensod. Pienamente in linea con la filosofia del passato, di Questa e Mondini nel 1902, di "Dulo" Ourlaz con la moglie nel 1940 ma con percorso per metà a rovescio, con tutte le grandi ascensioni del passato. Eppure sarà proprio lui che insieme all'Himalaysta Abele Blanc (uno dei primi uomini al mondo a scalare tutti i 14 Ottomila e due volte l'Everest) ad aprire, sempre a nostro avviso, una nuova epoca con la prima invernale alla Parete Est, il primo di Gennaio 1989. Nasce la New Age.
Logicamente si tratta della New Age per l'Emilius, perché ciò che qui appar una novità, sui gruppi di montagne più famose é già passato da una decina di anni. Se basta. Affinata la tecnica ed esaurite le grandi vene disponibili, si va a curiosare nel piccolo operando adeguati transfert. Detto così potrebbe apparire diminutivo, ma sarebbe un grande errore, poiché qui non esistono pareti "semplici", non ci sono blocchi granitici, non esistono facili posizionamenti per chiodi o relative assicurazioni. Sono, almeno quelle della Nord e della Est, rustiche pareti tali da richiedere "polso" e per le quali é bene mettere in preventivo la giornata intera. Chiedere a chi l'ha fatte. D'Estate come d'Inverno.
Queste due ultime salite citate nello stesso tempo chiudono il discorso con il passato aprendone uno con il futuro. Infatti mentre con la traversata, chiamiamola così, della Testata Settentrionale dell'Emilius in pratica circumnavigando l'Alto Vallone dell'Arpisson, si ribadisce la validità dell'ascensioni del passato, con la prima invernale sulla Parete Est si apre a salite sempre più impegnative. Non che la prima invernale di Chéraz/Framarin, di fine '84, sulla Parete Nord Via Quendoz/Trevisan Settembre '70 sia da sottovalutare, ma questa risulta più omogenea nelle difficoltà mantenenti una continuità sul IV° per tutti i 500 metri della scalata; l'altra, pur nel severo ambiente del Versante Settentrionale su 650 metri circa di salita presenta difficoltà di questo tipo per poco più di 150 metri circa, offrendo però una quarantina di metri di difficoltà più elevata (V°/V°+). Insieme alla prima ripetizione della Bozzetti/Rosset Settembre del 60 sul Triangolo Nero del Luglio '83 dei tre "Cogneins", costituisce un'anticipazione di là a venire e vanno entrambe considerate, per il tempo di allora, un pochettino come due uova fatte fuor dal cesto. Nell'anno seguente abbiam la conferma delle lunga dissertazione precedentemente eseguita: nel Giugno la cordata della Guida di Valpelline Aldo Cambiolo insieme al giovane Pierluigi Sartore realizza la Via del "Couloir Fantasma". Una goulotte di circa 250 metri posta tra il Triangolo Nero ed il grosso "Mammellone" discendente dalla Nord fino a "spaccare" in due parti il piccolo Ghiacciaio dell' Arpisson. Trattasi d'una salita delicata e pericolosa, che viene dai due effettuata nelle ore notturne, allorché l'esile filo di ghiaccio indicante la linea di salita é maggiormente compatto e "sicuro". La scalata presenta pendenze fino ad 80° ed oltre, che vengono superate con la tecnica del piolet-traction; la stessa si conclude ad Est di un'aerea guglia all'inizio del "Mammellone" medesimo. Sopra viene affrontato quel tratto di parete che porta alle "5 Dita" a monte della Sommità del Triangolo, tratto già percorso da Ourlaz/Tosana nella Primavera del '42; concludono in Vetta tramite lo Spigolo Nordest. In realtà quest'é una scalata al di fuori dal Triangolo Nero, formante, topograficamente parlando, un corpo a se stante, appena più in là ad Est; non appartiene neppure alla Parete Nordovest del medesimo (quella che sarà realizzata nell'Ottobre 2006 dalla cordata Marlier/Libera), bensì costituisce la logica continuazione in verticale dalla Vetta della Parete Nord, spezzata da quell'"originale Mammellone" che da questa la separa, originando quel caratteristico canalone che in diagonale per oltre 400 metri forma un grande, quanto pericoloso, imbuto. Questo raccoglie il 90% delle scariche di pietre e ghiaccio, cornice sommitale compresa, mentre il "Couloir Fantasma" riceve direttamente il restante. A buon intenditor... Forte di questo successo, il primo torna nei "paraggi" per combinar qualcosa di nuovo. Dopo due tentativi andati a vuoto nel mese di Luglio, il primo giorno d'Agosto, insieme alla brava Guida di Parma (ma allora non era ancora Guida) Roberta Vittorangeli realizza una via diretta sulla Parete Nord del Triangolo Nero. L'inizio avviene a destra della Via Bozzetti/Rosset '60 lungo un diedro sulfureo, ben in vista da sotto, e con passaggi sempre molto atletici che vanno dal IV° fino al VII° si arriva ad incrociare la Via 1960 a circa due terzi della parete nei pressi d'un minuscolo nevaio, che d'estate sparisce; lasciando questa sulla destra (Ovest) si prosegue quasi verticalmente e con passaggi in successione di 6a/IV°/VI° si esce su rocce più facili di III° sullo Spigolo Nord-nordest ed a sinistra del "Cannone Sommitale". La cordata deve bivaccare per concludere il giorno dopo la salita lungo lo stesso. La Via del 1960 arrivava al massimo a passaggi di V°+ con uno in Artificiale (A1) di una ventina di metri; ma non dimentichiamoci che arrampicava in scarponi e neppur del fatto che "Angelino" era un Mago nell'arrampicata.
Poi un lasso di tempo nel quale non succede un granché. Una salita solitaria di Osvaldo Cardellina su d'una lunga ed inesplorata Cresta W-NW delle Punte del Lago Gelato effettuata a Giugno 1966; non difficile, ma impegnativa per l'abbondante neve ancor esistente. Ed arriviamo al 1998, anno nel quale si registrano tre eventi rimarchevoli: a Luglio Christian Cardellina effettua la prima ripetizione solitaria della Via Crétier/Binel 1927, dopo quella di Gianni Pais Becher del Luglio '67, e la terza solitaria assoluta della parete dopo la stessa e quella di Alberto Sciardi nel Canalone Centrale del Giugno '85. Salita in linea con il passato, mentre il padre Osvaldo, per non essere da meno, il 9 Agosto sale da solo il Canalone Ovest, subito a destra della Via Quendoz/Trevisan '70; e questa via nuova é la ricerca d'un qualcosa di diverso da quelle del passato. Almeno più stimolante e thrilling. L'ambiente é ancor più selvaggio e pericoloso e l'uscita avviene sulla Cresta Ovest, ove lo stesso in un ormai lontano 1974, aveva effettuato l'aggiramento del "Salto Grigio" provenendo Dal Contrafforte Sud-sudovest, insieme a Camillo Roberto Ferronato. In mezzo a queste due scalate un avvenimento più "tranquillo", ma non meno importante: il 19 Luglio avviene l'inaugurazione del Rifugio d'Arbolle presso l'omonimo lago. Cambierà l'afflusso di alpinisti in questa zona, da sempre non eccessivamente percorsa ed in equilibrio nel rapporto persone/montagna, apportando l'arrivo della massa.
Ancora il 6 di Giugno 1999 una piccola salita con l'ancor vergine Parete Ovest del Mont Ròss de Comboé, triangolare e compresa tra le due ormai percorse Creste Nordovest dal Colle Carrel e Sudovest dal Col Ròss con relativa traversata al Piccolo Emilius, tale da costituire una variante iniziale della Cresta Ovest (dal 2004 Via Ferrata). Proprio in questo anno viene realizzata dalle Guide su "ordinazione" della Comunità Monte Emilius quest'"opera" che, a nostro avviso solo deturpa la montagna e costituisce fonte di pericolo e non di sicurezza. Dove in oltre un secolo erano passate 12 cordate, ora assistiamo al passaggio di frotte di alpinisti e no. Più, o meno, preparati e consci dell'ambiente che vanno ad affrontare. Con bel o cattivo tempo. Tanto é tutto sotto controllo. In sicurezza. C'é anche il panneau con tanto di prescrizioni e consigli, che però prende bene le distanze da ogni responsabilità. Mi viene tanto in mente quell'articolo di oltre mezzo secolo fa su "Tuttosport" a firma di Emanuele Cassarà: "La piccozza non é per tutti". Difatti si é già registrata una disgrazia...
Altri tre avvenimenti importanti si verificano nel biennio 2005/6 con la pubblicazione a Marzo 2005 della Guida "Emilius Rosa dei Banchi Parco del M.Avic" ad opera di Giulio Berutto (+ Torino 2005) e Lino Fornelli, Editori congiunti C.A.I./T.C.I. nella Collana "Guida dei Monti d'Italia".


The "Guide of Mount Emilius" 1978


La stessa segue, a distanza di quasi trenta anni, la spaprimigenia opera "Guida del Monte Emilius" di Osvaldo Cardellina, Editata dallo stesso in collaborazione con la Sezione di Aosta del CAI nel Dicembre 1978; la stessa, a sua volta, colmava un vuoto di ottanta due (proprio 82!) anni da un'altra pubblicazione, che parlasse in modo organico e descrittivo dell'intero gruppo. Appoggiata dal compianto Presidente della Sezione Toni Ortelli, aveva avuto anche una super visione da parte dello stesso. Il lavoro dimostra una conoscenza del territorio da parte dell'Autore di un buon 50% con asensioni ed escursioni personali su creste e pareti e di oltre l'80% con percorsi alla base; le altre problematiche derivano dalle ristrettezze economiche dello stesso, coadiuvato solo dall'intervento generoso del Presidente della Sezione con l'acquisto di 800 copie sulle 3000 stampate. Ne deriva l'impossibilità di andare oltre un determinato badget con la rinuncia, ad esempio, all'esecuzione di schizzi con relativa tracciatura delle vie ersistenti. L'unico é quello che rappresenta la Parete Nord dell'Emilius, eseguito dal Geometra Marco Cossard, al quale si devono pure le quattro piccole carte di insieme.
Il monumentale lavoro di Giovanni Bobba e Luigi Vaccarone, Editato dalla Sezione di Torino nel Maggio 1896, era ripartito in due volumi e ricopriva l'arco alpino dalle Alpi Marittime fino al Monte Rosa; il primo trattava le medesime e le Alpi Cozie, mentre il secondo si sdoppiava in due parti che riguardavano le Alpi Graie e Pennine. Nel II Vol., Parte Seconda, si trattavano le "Le Valli di Aosta, di Biella. della Sesia e dell'Ossola"; nella Parte prima gli Autori si erano rivolti, seguendo quindi un criterio di descrizione in senso orario, alle "Valli di Lanzo e del Canavese". E questa é, in sintesi, la "Guida delle Alpi Occidentali", cardine fondamentale per ogni opera di là a venire, compresa la prestigiosa "Collana dei Monti d'Italia" Editata in connubio da CAI/TCI a partire dal 1934 ed ancora oggi non completata del tutto. In questo lungo spazio di tempo era ancora il CAI che veniva incontro agli alpinisti con la sua "Rivista Mensile", vera e propria fucina di informazioni e notizie concernenti la montagna e l'alpinismo; le altre erano pubblicazioni saltuarie, se non consideriamo le opere straniere. Il limite di questa grande opera é proprio quello della sua grandezza, ovvero la "copertura" di un territorio immenso che non si riscontra più in nessuna altra opera, almeno in Italia. A nostro avviso la conoscenza dei luoghi non supera l'1% con ascensioni personali e non va oltre il 5% con analisi effettuate dal basso; il resto deriva da informazioni ricevute o da letture in esistenza, poche per la verità. Ciononostante quanto descritto, ci riferiamo sempre al Gruppo dell'Emilius e dintorni logicamente, é se non minuzioso, sicuramente preciso.
Forse anche sospinto da queste due pubblicazioni Ezio Marlier Guida Alpina di Cogne, ma residente a Pollein, compie due belle imprese: la prima ad Ottobre 2006 con Rossano Libera salendo la Parete Nordovest del Triangolo Nero, e la seconda con una salita solitaria sull'ancora inesplorato settore a destra del Canale Ovest, nel Novembre successivo. La prima otterrà un'istantanea ripetizione da parte della forte coppia svizzero-tedesca Roger Schàli and Robert Jasper, che valuteranno la via come molto dura, interessante ed in ambiente selvaggio; rientreranno tramite la "Via Ferrata".
Le analizzeremo con calma, ricollegandoci a quanto effettuato nella "Parte Prima" di questo complesso lavoro nell'elencazione e valutazione delle Routes:
(2) N Wall and W Arête (Right Route-"Spirito Libero" - "Free Spirit",new route): Ezio Marlier, solo; Nov 18/19th, 2006; diff. in level 720m (610+110m); (IV°, 4, M4); TD-/TD.
(13) *** North-NorthWest Face ("Senza Parole" – "Bocconi Amari", new route): Rossano Libera and Ezio Marlier; Oct 25/26th, 2006; first repetition Nov 06/07th, 2006; Roger Schàli (CH) and Robert Jasper (D); d. in lev. 400m; (V°/M7/WI6/); ED.
Come si può osservare, cambia completamente il modo di classificare e valutare le difficoltà superate, inserendo sigle nuove ed attuali.
Incominciamo dalla guida dicendo che, dopo la pubblicazione della "Guida del Monte Emilius", 1978, non si trovavano più pubblicazioni sul Monte Emilius, se non qualche sporadico articolo, qua e là, sulle riviste. Niente di completamente ed analiticamente organico. La pubblicazione di Berutto/Fornelli, alla quale ho collaborato dal 1998 al 2005 per quanto cocerne la parte affidata a Lino Fornelli, presenta due aspetti, dei quali uno molto positivo ed un altro, purtroppo, negativo. Iniziamo dalla parte migliore, cioé che questa opera é davvero un sogno che possa avere visto la luce. Essa copre una vasta area, che va ben più in là di quella della precedente guida che si arrestava, come era daltronde nei propositi dell'autore, al Colle di Saint Marcel e riguardava quindi il solo Gruppo dell'Emilius. Questa invece spazia su di un'area ben più vasta che oltrepassa i confini della Valle d'Aosta e descrive ampie zone delle Alpi Graie del Sudest. Purtroppo la grande espansione nella ricerca costituisce un limite alla medesima; fattore ancora di più messo in risalto dalla morte di uno dei due autori, prima che questa potesse essere completata. Infatti l'amico Giulio Berutto, conosciuto poco tempo prima al Col Pontonnet, non riuscirà a vedere la sua opera, causa una malattia. E questo é molto triste, perché fa capire che la Morte sovrasta anche la più grande delle Passioni. Quel giorno Giulio arrivava dal Mont Glacier con un amico. Senza tanti preamboli abbiamo capito chi eravamo, quasi ci fossimo conosciuti da sempre. Lui ed io. La sua dipartita fa capire chiaramente che alcune parti del suo lavoro erano rimaste in sospeso. Per sempre? Speriamo di no. Non sto ad elencare tutte le positività di questo lavoro, per il quale non avrei scommesso un solo centesimo sulla pubblicazione. La tenacia e l'entusiasmo di Lino Fornelli, che non era un ventenne, ha però prevalso. E di ciò gli sono infinitamente grato. Povero Emilius, anche per te é giunta l'ora di uscire dal semi anonimato, dove non meritavi di restare collocato. La parte negativa dell'opera? Sicuramente la fretta (penso che sia sussistito il serio rischio della non pubblicazione) nel doverla editare con conseguente mancanza di una lettura approfondita delle bozze. Si evidenziano infatti diversi errori formali di datazione, nome dei personaggi ecc., mentre alcuni sostanziali, per fortuna in numero limitato, rendono più difficile l'interpretazione del discorso, schizzi compresi. Ma vale il detto che non commette errori chi nulla fa...


The Berutto's/Fornelli's BOOK 2005


Da questo momento tutti i lavori apparsi in SP vanno a completare, rivedere, correggere in modo completo queste tre pubblicazioni; con il vantaggio che, mentre un libro non può essere rivisitato se non con una successiva edizione, in questi tre casi alquanto improbabile o di là a venire in uno spazio di tempo alquanto lungo, queste possono essere segnalate in modo tempestivo nel presente modus operandi. Il che non é da poco, soprattutto per gli alpinisti, costituendo un supporto praticamente indispensabile nell'attualità e precisione d'informazione. Ultimamente, ovvero dall'Agosto 2021 é apparso lo splendido volume "Emilius - Avic" ad opera di due ragazzi di Parma (Andrea Greci - Federico Rossetti, Collanavienormali valle d'aosta 3, IDEA MONTAGNA EDITORIA E ALPINISMO Villa di Teolo - PD), che va ad arricchire la bibliografia inerente il settore Sudorientale delle Alpi Graie; in particolare con gli itinerari da numero 124 (pagina 335) a numero 163 (pagina 435) concernenti il più ristretto settore del Gruppo del Monte Emilius.
E vale pur sempre quel detto affermante che se Whymper non avesse relazionato dell'ascensione al Cervino, l'alpinismo non avrebbe mai visto la luce.

EMILIUS s SW Buttress, First Ascent 1974: Descendig from Comboé s TRIDENT
 Aug 01, 1976: along the Monte Emilius s west<br> ridge; in the foreground  Piccolo Emilius <i>3342m</i>
Old Classic Routes West Natural & Infernal Ridge 1976
Osvaldo Cardellina al Col Ross...
EMOTIONS & SUG Sec. Part Before the  Via Ferrata  1977
<b>33 ... <font color=green>M. EMILIUS</font> (3559m) <font color=red>W-SW WALL  &  West Ridge, direct and new route</font> 1986</b>
<b>Climbing in S-SW Ribbing to <font color=green>Emilius</font> <font color=brown>on 1994</font></b>



Children refers to the set of objects that logically fall under a given object. For example, the Aconcagua mountain page is a child of the 'Aconcagua Group' and the 'Seven Summits.' The Aconcagua mountain itself has many routes, photos, and trip reports as children.