Geographical structure: Eastern Alps
> Julian Alps
> Vis and Montaz group
Pipar / Monte Piper is located between Iof di Miezegnot / Poldanasnja spica
(2087m) on the east side and Dve spici / Due Pizzi (2008m) on the west side. The mountain has three summits. The most eastern summit is very broken so the rock on Pipar is not good. The easiest approach comes from the west from the route on Due Pizzi. The harder route goes from the east side, from the route on Iof di Miezegnot. This route is hard and we must be prepared on climbing without security help because this is often damaged because of falling rocks.
The whole northern range of Western Julian Alps is also well known from the World War I. All kinds of rests can still be seen on the whole streak, where Italians held positions. Austro-Hungarian positions were deep down in Val Canale.
Names in this area have different origins. Here are mixed Slovenes and Furlani, and throughout history Italians came from south and also some Germans from north.
Monte Piper / Pipar from the Iof di Miezegnot in Winter time.
To the south falls the slopes of Pipar on the road to Sella di Sompdogna, (Rudni vrh pass), 1398m where is also the parking place. To the west is connected with the ridge to Due Pizzi and to the east with the ridge to Iof di Miezegnot. The north slopes falls down to the start of Val Canale where are the villages Malborghetto and Ugovizza.
The approach valley to the Western Julian Alps will probably be the highway through Val Canale (Udine - Tarvisio).
1. For the south ascent you must deter from the highway in the village named Dogna and travel 18 km through the Dogna valley to Sella di Somdogna (Rudni vrh pass), 1398m. The other possibility is exiting the highway in Valbruna (5 km west of Tarvisio) and driving south into the Valbruna (Zajzera) valley. The road ends on an alpine meadow on the altitude of 1000 m, from where you reach Sella di Sompdogna in one hour.
2. For north ascent you start in Val Canale. Trailheads start in Malborghetto.
Tarvisio can also be reached from east, from Slovenia (from the Sava valley or over the Predel (Predil) pass and of course also from north, from Austria (from Villach or from Gailtal over the Nassfeld Pass).
Tabacco: Alpi Giulie Occidentali Tarvisiano. No: 019, 1:25000 (very good!).
Routes overview East approach.
From the Sella di Sompdogna to the bivouac below the summit of iof di Miezegnot and then over the east ridge to the summit. The harder approach.
From the Sella di Sompdogna over the route number 648 to the crossing with the route number 649 and then over the steep grassy slopes ov the west ridge to the summit. The easier appoach.
No limitations or special permits.
When To Climb
We ascend on Pipar / Monte Piper usually in snowless time because in Winter conditions this ascent is hard. Be careful on falling rocks on the east approach!
The summit can be climbed in one day. If you plan more days in these mountains, one possibility where to spend a night is Rif. Attillio Grego (parking place 400 m below it in Valbruna or on Sella di Somdogna, 1398m, 15 minutes away), 1398 m. It has 44 beds and a winter room with 4 beds. Tel.: 0428 60111.
The other possibility is the bivouac just below the summit of Iof di Miezegnot. If we go on the Pipar from the east we will go by this bivouac. It is apparently new. On december 6th, 2003 it was opened, looking really attractive.
On the main ridge of the northern streak, west of Pipar, below the Due Pizzi, there is Bivacco Bernardis, 1830m.
In Val Canale there is a camping place near Tarvisio.