Mtngirl11 - Nov 10, 2023 5:37 pm Date Climbed: Jul 1, 2023
Guided Traverse
Longer trip report at https://climbfrominjury.com/the-monte-rosa-traverse-comfort-climbing/.
TLDR version: Guided climb, summited Breithorn (easy snow climb with ridge traverse), Pollux (rock climb/via ferrata-ish), Castor (steep snow climb followed by sketchy knife-edge ridge), Signalkuppe. Biggest obstacles were snow softening up early, stomach problems, and a guide who was kind of a douche.
markhallam - Aug 11, 2013 3:44 pm Date Climbed: Jul 7, 2013
7/8 summits!
On 6th & 7th July, climbing with rgg and a 'hitchhiker' Al, we picked up on the Balmenhorn, we climbed all the Monte Rosa summits apart from Nordend. It was my 2nd visit to the summit of Dufourspitze, Zumsteinspitze and Signalkuppe but 1st full success on the Signalkuppe to Dufour crossing.
A marvellous experience - all the more for having failed to get above 3200m on the Swiss side due to deep, soft snow.
gimpilator - Nov 15, 2012 1:35 am Date Climbed: Jul 23, 2012
5 Summits
Amazing glaciers! Crowded yet still beautiful.
markhallam - Mar 28, 2011 1:20 pm Date Climbed: Sep 27, 1991
3 summits
Climbed Dufourspitz in very cold wintry conditions late season in 1991 and failed to get across to Zumsteinspitz & Signalkuppe. However, in 1982 I successfully summited those two, but in poor conditions failed to get across to the Dufourspitz!
Route Climbed: Punta Telcio 2833 m by trails 7C,6A,7B. Date Climbed: July 27, 2005.
A solitary ascend at moderate weather. There was a lot of fog flowing from the Gressoney Valley. I started from my camp put at Passo Soalzecoll. The summit has been reached at 1:00 PM. The way 7B is very mild and beautiful, first through rocky meadows between nice small lakes and then rocky slopes. This area is not visited by many people. A top of the mount is inhabited by ibexes.
Route Climbed: Hochlicht 3185 m by a trail 7C. Date Climbed: July 25, 2005
A solitary ascend at a cloudy-fog weather. I started from my camp put at Passo Soalzecoll. A summit has been reached at 12:46 PM. Slopes of Hochlicht are visited by many ibexes. A flock of 40 males has been resting at my camp.
Route Climbed: traverse from Zumsteinspitze to Rotenboden Date Climbed: June 29 - July 1, 2004
We (Sonya and Howie) climbed for 3 days with Klaus Tsherrig, whom we met through the Zermatt Alpine center. Klaus was great - professional yet still fun - confident and knowledgeable. Pollux, Castor, Lyskaam traverse, Parrotspitze, Signalkuppe, Zumsteinspitze, Dufourspitze were each great fun. Highly recommended.
Route Climbed: Monte Rosa Eastface - Marinelli Couloir Date Climbed: July 3-5, 2004
Simply impressive, this big wall! I have to climb it again ...
I climbed it together with Rainer Heinzmann and Andreas Weinhold.
We left our car in Visp, went by train to Domodossola via Brig and from Domodossola to Macucnaga-Pecetto by bus. From Pecetto we took the lift to Belvedere, went via Belvedere-Glacier (which I really cannot recommend - rather go directly to the northside of the Nordendglacier) to Nordendglacier and via a wide snow flank to the height of the Marinelli-Bivouac. This bivouac has good equipment: many blankets, mattresses for 8 to12 people, gas, pots etc.
At the beginning of Marinelli Couloir, we did not climb Imsengrücken, but went first up in the snow on the northern side and then on the southern side of Imsengrücken. We chose the icy couloir to Silbersattel as exit. You may also leave the Eastface by the couloir to Grenzsattel.
Due to big danger of rockfall, icefall and avalanches, you should leave the couloir before 7 or 8 a.m.!
We went down to Monte Rosa Hut and ascended to the station Rotenboden of Gornergratbahn, with which we went down to Zermatt (31 sFr!!). From Zermatt, we took the public transportation (train/bus) to Visp (32 sFr!!).
Route Climbed: Four Summit Traverse (skipped Nord End)` Date Climbed: 14 July 1967
I began the traverse with Zermat Guide Edmund Petrig at 01:30 AM on 14 July, 1967. We started from the Monte Rosa Hut and traveled up the Grenzgletscher to the Italian border just south of the Margarita Hut on the Signalkuppe (4556 m). After entering the hut and registering in the log book, we began in a north-northwesterly direction and traversed over the Zumsteinspitz (4563), Grenzsattel (about 5540), and the Grenzgipfel (4596) where we turned toward teh west and climbed up to the Dufourspitz (4634). There, we stopped for lunch before we began the descent to the saddle. Fromthere we dropped down onto the Monte Rosagletscher and worked our way back to the Monte Rosa Hut.
Most of the climb was in the clouds and it was an unusually warm day. Only several times were we able to appreciate the views that were before our eyes so only a several slides were taken. Just as we were droping down onto the Monte Rosa Glacier a thundering roar surprised us and we saw much of the bridge over the bergschrund collapse. Ed said solumnly - "This is a very dangerous situation" and I thought - "No kidding". We had to work laterally on the snow above the enormous gap until we found a hopefully safe bridge to cross. Then to enhance safety, Ed drove his ice ax in to the hilt, paid out just enough rope to reach across the suspect area and instructed me to dive flat and swim quickly with minimum weight concentration over to the darker snow on the far side. Once there I drove my ice ax in like fashion and drew in the rope tohelpspeed Ed's swim across to me. We were wet after that exercise so we did not notice getting wetter with every repetition as we crossed what seemed to me a multitude of crevasses until we reached the lower tip of the glacier. Part way down, we were attracted by shouts from a group of three climbers far out on the glacier. We were in a higher location that afforded Ed a good view of the crevass pattern between us and enabled him to give them hand signals to indicate the direction they should proceed to reach us. Soon we were five on a rope and we all rached the hut safely. Our time for the entire traverse had been right on twelve hours.
Mtngirl11 - Nov 10, 2023 5:37 pm Date Climbed: Jul 1, 2023
Guided TraverseLonger trip report at https://climbfrominjury.com/the-monte-rosa-traverse-comfort-climbing/.
TLDR version: Guided climb, summited Breithorn (easy snow climb with ridge traverse), Pollux (rock climb/via ferrata-ish), Castor (steep snow climb followed by sketchy knife-edge ridge), Signalkuppe. Biggest obstacles were snow softening up early, stomach problems, and a guide who was kind of a douche.
markhallam - Aug 11, 2013 3:44 pm Date Climbed: Jul 7, 2013
7/8 summits!On 6th & 7th July, climbing with rgg and a 'hitchhiker' Al, we picked up on the Balmenhorn, we climbed all the Monte Rosa summits apart from Nordend. It was my 2nd visit to the summit of Dufourspitze, Zumsteinspitze and Signalkuppe but 1st full success on the Signalkuppe to Dufour crossing.
A marvellous experience - all the more for having failed to get above 3200m on the Swiss side due to deep, soft snow.
gimpilator - Nov 15, 2012 1:35 am Date Climbed: Jul 23, 2012
5 SummitsAmazing glaciers! Crowded yet still beautiful.
markhallam - Mar 28, 2011 1:20 pm Date Climbed: Sep 27, 1991
3 summitsClimbed Dufourspitz in very cold wintry conditions late season in 1991 and failed to get across to Zumsteinspitz & Signalkuppe. However, in 1982 I successfully summited those two, but in poor conditions failed to get across to the Dufourspitz!
Romuald Kosina - Aug 14, 2005 12:11 pm
Route Climbed: Punta Telcio 2833 m by trails 7C,6A,7B. Date Climbed: July 27, 2005.A solitary ascend at moderate weather. There was a lot of fog flowing from the Gressoney Valley. I started from my camp put at Passo Soalzecoll. The summit has been reached at 1:00 PM. The way 7B is very mild and beautiful, first through rocky meadows between nice small lakes and then rocky slopes. This area is not visited by many people. A top of the mount is inhabited by ibexes.
Romuald Kosina - Aug 14, 2005 11:56 am
Route Climbed: Hochlicht 3185 m by a trail 7C. Date Climbed: July 25, 2005A solitary ascend at a cloudy-fog weather. I started from my camp put at Passo Soalzecoll. A summit has been reached at 12:46 PM. Slopes of Hochlicht are visited by many ibexes. A flock of 40 males has been resting at my camp.
Cautious - Jun 23, 2005 10:12 am
Route Climbed: Normal Date Climbed: August 1994Very cold. Some of our team suffered minor frostbite
hhsilleck - Sep 13, 2004 5:11 pm
Route Climbed: traverse from Zumsteinspitze to Rotenboden Date Climbed: June 29 - July 1, 2004We (Sonya and Howie) climbed for 3 days with Klaus Tsherrig, whom we met through the Zermatt Alpine center. Klaus was great - professional yet still fun - confident and knowledgeable. Pollux, Castor, Lyskaam traverse, Parrotspitze, Signalkuppe, Zumsteinspitze, Dufourspitze were each great fun. Highly recommended.
flearreta - Sep 8, 2004 2:22 pm
Route Climbed: Traverse Klein Matterhorn-Rotenboden Date Climbed: August 27-30, 2004Day 1: Pollux and Castor. Night at Sella Hut.
Day 2: Bad weather. Rest at Sella hut.
Day 3: Lyskamm West, Lyskamm East, Ludwighohe, Parrotspitze, Signalkuppe. Rest at Marguerita hut.
Day 4: Zumsteinspitze and Dufourspitze. Down to Zermatt via Rotenboden Station.
Rahel Maria Liu - Jul 8, 2004 7:19 pm
Route Climbed: Monte Rosa Eastface - Marinelli Couloir Date Climbed: July 3-5, 2004Simply impressive, this big wall! I have to climb it again ...
I climbed it together with Rainer Heinzmann and Andreas Weinhold.
We left our car in Visp, went by train to Domodossola via Brig and from Domodossola to Macucnaga-Pecetto by bus. From Pecetto we took the lift to Belvedere, went via Belvedere-Glacier (which I really cannot recommend - rather go directly to the northside of the Nordendglacier) to Nordendglacier and via a wide snow flank to the height of the Marinelli-Bivouac. This bivouac has good equipment: many blankets, mattresses for 8 to12 people, gas, pots etc.
At the beginning of Marinelli Couloir, we did not climb Imsengrücken, but went first up in the snow on the northern side and then on the southern side of Imsengrücken. We chose the icy couloir to Silbersattel as exit. You may also leave the Eastface by the couloir to Grenzsattel.
Due to big danger of rockfall, icefall and avalanches, you should leave the couloir before 7 or 8 a.m.!
We went down to Monte Rosa Hut and ascended to the station Rotenboden of Gornergratbahn, with which we went down to Zermatt (31 sFr!!). From Zermatt, we took the public transportation (train/bus) to Visp (32 sFr!!).
Pictures of this trip:
www.MountainArea.com
schadik - Nov 23, 2001 1:30 am
Route Climbed: From the Gniffetti hut in Italy. Date Climbed: 1999A lot of snowy terrain. We ticked other little 4000m summits alond the way. (Balmenhorn4321m, Ludwigshoehe4342m, Parrotspitze4335)
Slummit Climber - May 1, 2001 10:55 pm
Route Climbed: Four Summit Traverse (skipped Nord End)` Date Climbed: 14 July 1967I began the traverse with Zermat Guide Edmund Petrig at 01:30 AM on 14 July, 1967. We started from the Monte Rosa Hut and traveled up the Grenzgletscher to the Italian border just south of the Margarita Hut on the Signalkuppe (4556 m). After entering the hut and registering in the log book, we began in a north-northwesterly direction and traversed over the Zumsteinspitz (4563), Grenzsattel (about 5540), and the Grenzgipfel (4596) where we turned toward teh west and climbed up to the Dufourspitz (4634). There, we stopped for lunch before we began the descent to the saddle. Fromthere we dropped down onto the Monte Rosagletscher and worked our way back to the Monte Rosa Hut.
Most of the climb was in the clouds and it was an unusually warm day. Only several times were we able to appreciate the views that were before our eyes so only a several slides were taken. Just as we were droping down onto the Monte Rosa Glacier a thundering roar surprised us and we saw much of the bridge over the bergschrund collapse. Ed said solumnly - "This is a very dangerous situation" and I thought - "No kidding". We had to work laterally on the snow above the enormous gap until we found a hopefully safe bridge to cross. Then to enhance safety, Ed drove his ice ax in to the hilt, paid out just enough rope to reach across the suspect area and instructed me to dive flat and swim quickly with minimum weight concentration over to the darker snow on the far side. Once there I drove my ice ax in like fashion and drew in the rope tohelpspeed Ed's swim across to me. We were wet after that exercise so we did not notice getting wetter with every repetition as we crossed what seemed to me a multitude of crevasses until we reached the lower tip of the glacier. Part way down, we were attracted by shouts from a group of three climbers far out on the glacier. We were in a higher location that afforded Ed a good view of the crevass pattern between us and enabled him to give them hand signals to indicate the direction they should proceed to reach us. Soon we were five on a rope and we all rached the hut safely. Our time for the entire traverse had been right on twelve hours.
Oyvind Lind Petersen - Apr 13, 2001 2:26 pm
Route Climbed: The normal route from Monte Rosa hütte Date Climbed: 23 July 1999.This mountain had been on my mind since 1973. I had a deep and nice feeling when I stood on the top 8:30 in the morning.