My thanks to Gabriele for the wonderful images and the help.
A page about the bigger face of the Alps is really a good idea!
Thanks for posting it!
Thanks! It's a face that is often forgetted when speaking of the greatest ones of the Alps.
Thanks! That was my feelling.
with lots of useful information! Thanks for posting,
Thanks for the appreciation! Marco.
Thanks for collecting all the info!
Thank you. It's been a pleasure for Me to tell the story of this wall.
Thanks Marco excellent job :)
We are planning to climb Bioschi route at the end of February.
Altough your description says that this is TD in Griffin's Guidebook it is D+ with some places III-IV.
Do you have maybe some more specific info about this particular route?
The rating of Brioschi is D, mostly due to its lenght and wilderness, but I would reconsider the opportunity to climb it in February, too much snow can bring some serious danger in the high part of the route when getting the "Lenzuolo".
The Brioschi is the safer route on the wall from June to September, in winter (and climbing by night), I could suggest the Marinelli Channel that should be much faster to climb so less dangerous.
Gabriele surely knows the wall much better than Me, my informations on this page have principally an historic purpose.
The valutation TD for the Brioschi that I report here is the one of Gino Buscaini guide to Monte Rosa, the official guide of the Italian alpine club.
Much of this "TD" is due to the lenght of the route and to the severity of the environment, further more it's hard to find the rocks clean from ice or snow.
For what concerns the Lenzuolo its slope should reach the 65 degrees according to Buscaini guide.
The difficult of III and IV for the rock climbing passages are also reported by Buscaini.
I would pay attention anyhow in choosing of climbing the Marinelli couloir during this Winter, in the last month the Alps have been subjected to huge snow falls followed by sudden arising of temperature, so It's important having a clear vision of the weather that's gonna come before engaging the route.
Why don't you consider also the choice of Santa Caterina ridge, It's not in the heart of the wall but it's technical interesting (up to V grade of UIAA), the only negative aspect for this route should be the exposition toward north that could cause a late cleaning of the rocks from the snow.
Further more the most important snow falls during the last three winters have occured during March, so the period you have choosen could not be the most convenient.
Note that I have never been on Brioschi route further than some hundreds meters above Marinelli hut, so mine it's not the opinion of an expert of the route.
thanks for quick response.
on www.snow-forecast.com there is link to live webcam with the view on East Face. Of course it is far distance, but as for now it doesn't seems to be covered with much snow.
We will see in place how is it looks like.
Starting from Zamboni there is number of oportunities... Ridge Signal, Marinelli, Brischi... :) The target is East Wall... which way... depends on conditions. For mi Brioschi and Marinelli looks the best.
I'am logging snow condition since one month, as for now it is not so bad. There was a fall two weeks ago approx 30cm but after that there was warm and now is deadly freezing, hope it will continue this way for next four weeks :)
I've been on Monterosa (south-west part) last February, the same time and weather was excellet, six days of sun and no fresh snow.
I hope we will get this conditions this year also.
If not we will change our plan for something less challenging :)
here you find another webcam on the wall:
Three weeks ago there has been a snow fall of 70cm in just one sunday!
the snow fall of 30cm you report has been the last of an huge series.
Some people have remained under an avalanche in Otro Valley, near Alagna, on the south flank of Monte Rosa.
Fortunately there has been no victim.
Note that in the Area there was the maximum level of lisk for avalanches for an entire week due to the high temperature.
I was there skiing a week later and the snow was like the one you find skiing near the end of March.
The last winter (2006/2007) has surely been the warmer and most dry of the last years.
This winter is much more unstable.
Optimus sites for the weather forecast above the Alps are www.Meteo.it and www.ilmeteo.it, this last one gives you the forecast for a chosen locality, example Macugnaga and the quantity of precipitations attended.
PS: man I love skiing and I hope some other snow will fall before the end of the season ;-)
Later on why not... :) it may snowing all the time... :)
but not nearest four weeks... there was enough :)
So, we will see how it will end up. I'll let you know and maybe bring some pictures if all goes well :)
Thank you very much for help :)
So, we came back. Unsucessful :(
The weather and snow conditions were really bad. Warm, cloudy and windy, in opposite to forecast. Snow was like wet sugar, so we could only "swim" in it not climb. It tooks us six hours to climb just 300m up from Zamboni to Marinelli, so we resign and came down. Next days were even worst. There was Emma hurricane or something which caused all that mess.
But next year we will back :)
The question is: when, at the winter, are most solid snow conditions?
Thanks again for all help guys.
It's only, I think, a matter of fortune
I've been in Canalone Marinelli with perfect snow at the beginning of January (many years ago), but I heard that sometimes in the same period it was in grey ice ...
What about trying in Autumn? Early November? In the last autumns, at least from 2003 The Alps have enjoyed (or I should say suffered!) A really Dry and stable weather, the rocks should be clean, maybe grey Ice in the couloirs perhaps.
That would be too easy ;)
The idea is to do it in calendar winter :)