Monte Sarmiento is a pyramidal peak with a glaciated saddle-shaped summit located within Alberto de Agostini National Park, in the Chilean portion of Tierra del Fuego. It rises abruptly from the east shore of the Magdalena Channel and marks the western border of the Cordillera Darwin. The mountain is frequently shrouded in clouds, but when it is visible is "the most sublime spectacle in Tierra del Fuego" according the words of Charles Darwin, one of the many people who have been captivated by the breathtaking beauty of this mountain.
The climbing route is almost entirely on ice and snow with some technical climbing near the summit
Some of the surrounding peaks of Monte Sarmiento are still unclimbed.
Getting at the base of Monte Sarmiento is not cheap and easy.
The peak looks out across the Cockburn Canal to the countless rugged islands of the southwestern Patagonia coast. Though the major center for much of Tierra del Fuego is the tourist town of Ushuaia (Argentina), Sarmiento's northern location on the island makes it more easily accessible from Punta Arenas, a Chilean coastal city located to the north, across the Strait of Magellan.
The better option is to fly in Punta Arenas via Santiago del Chile or fly to Rio Gallegos via Buenos Aires and then take a bus to Punta Arenas. If the second otpion is taken you have to add 6/8 hours ground transportation but if travelling from Europe this should result a cheaper option because travelling to and in Argentina is cheaper.
When in Punta Arenas things get very long a difficult. Access to the mountain is possible only by boat (Punta Arenas is about 100km North of the mountain). Ascents have been made from landings on the East side (Glaciar Blanco) of the peak at Bahia Escandollo on the Seno Martinez and from the W (Glaciar Schiaparelli) on the Canal Magdalena.
Transportation can be arranged in Punta Arenas, more likely as part of already organised tours. Expect to pay for a four people party and the equipment in the range 1,500-2,000 USD (2007 survey).
An useful map for the climb (but very large scale and quite out of date) is the 1:250,000 Andes Patagonicos sheet 2 "Iwa to Yuki" number 45.
Climbing Sarmiento is a real expedition, the weather is atrocious, the approach long and difficult. A minimum of two weeks should be planned to have significant chances of success.
There are no restrictions for camping.
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