This is the side of Forno Glacier.
Mountain with the schape of triangle pyramid. Not very impressive, and with modest climbing interests.
But Monte Sissone has the characteristic to be placed on an important position; the point of union of 3 boundaries.
Infact, the north and west ridges divide the Valle del Forno(CH), from the homonymous Val Sissone(higher part of Valmalenco IT)on east and the Val Masino
on south. Instead the southeast ridge, that continues with the bigger Monte Disgrazia
, is the boudary between the two Italian valleys: Masino and Sissone.
This mountain is almost totally covered of ice on the Swiss side(ice part of Forno Glacier), instead the other two sides are formed by rocky cliffs, broken and instable especially on the Val Masino side.
Here in fact is the east limit and end of the fantastic granite typical of Val Masino/Bergell.
The ascent of Monte Sissone is recommended by ski in springtime along the Forno Glacier; or otherwise climbed together with the Cima di Rosso
, along the very panoramic crest between the two summits.
Has I said before, Monte Sissone is placed at the point of union of 3 boudaries, and above three valleys. Two in Italy and one in Swiss.
Monte Sissone is at the head of Forno Glacier. Which is very long, and it covers almost the entire part of Val del Forno.
The ref.Forno(2574m)permits to share the long journey in two parts. The best starting point is the Maloja Pass(1809m), wherefrom a small road shortens the approach till the ref. Plan Canin(1982m).
From here to the ref.Forno following the path signed by white/blue spots. Maloja Pass is reachable by car from St.Moritz and from Milano-Chiavenna-Bondo(SP36).
Ref.Forno could also be reached from Italy, across the Forno pass(2775m).
Cima di Castello and Forno glacier
Higher part of the major Valmalenco. Placed in an inpressive environment amongst Monte Disgrazia and Bernina group.
Leave the car at the village of Chiareggio(1612m). From here few paths takes up to the ref.Forno and ref.Del Grande(at the foot of east flank of Monte Sissone).
Probably the longest approach. Monte Sissone is at the head of Val Cameraccio, that is the higher part of Val Masino.
The biv.Manzi permits to share the jouney in two parts only if coming from Val Torrone first, and the day after crossing the Passo Torrone to Val Cameraccio.
Otherwise the new biv.Kima is also a good place for rest if coming from ref.Ponti and Valle di Preda Rossa.
I personally think the approach along Val Torrone is the best. For routes and transports about Val Masino,check the Related Page
The head of Val Camerozzo
Routes and HistorySSW flank:
Normal route.From biv.Manzi(6/7h EEA/F).
S flank and SE ridge:
Normal route.From biv.Manzi(6/7h EEA/F).
From biv.Manzi(3/3.30h AD-).Tuckett/F.Brown/Ch.Michel/I.Walter 11/08/1864
From Cima di Rosso(2/3h PD).Very fine,probably the best.D.W.Freshfield/W.Beachcroft/F.Devouassoud 10/08/1964.
From ref.Del Grande(5/6h diff?).Not recommended,bad qualiti rocks.
From ref.Forno(3h OSA).Very fine.
Many of the Bivouacs and Huts in the area,permit quite convenient approach from every sides.
Here the list:
2574m.120 places(30 winter).CAS Sez.Rorschach.Open from 01 July to 15 September.
Tel.0041/818243182.From Maloja Pass(3hours E).From Chiareggio/Forno Pass(3hours E).
2580m.10 places.CAI Milano.Open August and the weekend of September.Also open on demand,ask keys to "Albergo Genziana",Chiareggio Tel.0342/451005.From Chiareggio path n3(2/2,30 hours E).
2540m.9 places,C.A.A.I,Open permanently.From S.Martino Val Masino(4/5hours E).
2992m.6 places,C.A.A.I,open permanently.From S.Martino Val Masino(6hours EE).
2700m.10 places.Open permanently.From S.Martino Val Masino(6hours E),from Preda Rossa(4,30hours E).
Refuge del Forno
-A.Bonacossa/G.Rossi.Masino Bregaglia Disgrazia."Guide dei Monti d'Italia" vol.II TCI 1975
-Miotti/Gogna."Dal Pizzo Badile al Bernina".Zanichelli - 1986
-"Masino-Bregaglia-Disgrazia" G.Maspes and G.Miotti "Guida delle Guide"
-Kompass - Chiavenna-Val Bregaglia 92/93 1/50000
-Swiss topographic maps: Val Bregaglia # 1276 and Sciora # 1296 1/50000