Moon Goddess Arete

Leading P12 of Moon Goddess Arete (numbering per Supertopo). This is a "step" in the arete just above a large, flat chockstone (level with top of Ibrium Tower) rated at 5.7 by Supertopo (probably easier, September 5, 2004).

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jtschanz

jtschanz - Sep 7, 2004 4:52 pm - Hasn't voted

Another rpc adventure!

I knew I could count on you to be climbing some long route over Labor Day. Great picture!

rpc

rpc - Sep 7, 2004 5:07 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Another rpc adventure!

Thanks Jim :)

What were YOU up to over the long weekend? Also been looking forward to some photos from you (BTW, almost went for that Bear Creek Spire after seeing a shot of it you submitted a while back.......there's a sweet looking route on it.....so many ideas, so little free time!!!!!)

jtschanz

jtschanz - Sep 7, 2004 5:59 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Another rpc adventure!

Yeah I know the feeling - we don't get nearly enough vacation, do we? I had planned to climb some peaks in the Stuart range this weekend, but when we drove into Cle Elum we saw a fresh coating of snow on the rock. So instead we did some climbing around Snoq. Pass and Leavenworth (that Orbit climb looks coool)!

rpc

rpc - Sep 7, 2004 6:02 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Another rpc adventure!

Nice! What did you end up doing in Snoqualmie/L-worth?



...that would suck if the summer alpine season were already over!!!

rpc

rpc - Sep 7, 2004 6:13 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Another rpc adventure!

Never mind.......nice job on Satellite (looked at that route before). Can you add in the route info. under Snow Creek wall Jim?

jtschanz

jtschanz - Sep 7, 2004 8:26 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Another rpc adventure!

Well - I had intended to put the Satellite route up on SP, but I'm still not sure if we actually did the route. There is very little info on the web about it, but I found one trip report which suggests that we started at the wrong place. I am going to try and find out some more info about it.

rpc

rpc - Sep 8, 2004 12:32 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Another rpc adventure!

Jim,

think it would still be useful to see the info. - if you had trouble finding the route, most likely others might have run into same difficulty. I'd still be interested to get beta from you.

Dave Daly

Dave Daly - Jan 7, 2005 1:44 am - Voted 10/10

Left Or Right?

rpc (still don't know your first name) -



I'm assuming you and Shirley headed left and over to the corner. I remember that section (just above the gap/alcove). As I recall that was the crux (well, sort of.....vice us heading straight up the Ibreum Tower (loose 5.9), as seen above. There was an fatal accident just above this pitch two years ago.

rpc

rpc - Jan 7, 2005 2:01 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Left Or Right?

Hey Dave,

it's radek.

If I remember, the section in this photo is just beyond (about level) the top of Ibrium Tower. I think we arrived there in 2 different ways. You guys went up that loose .9 and actually topped out on the tower itself. We sort of went by Supertopo's recommend. and went right below the base of Ibrium. We skirted the right side of the Tower near its base (4th class) and just beyond its base we screwed up! In order to regain the ridge top, we should have followed a high angle gully (supposed to be .7) back to the ridgetop just beyond top of tower. Instead, we took an minor arete beyond this .7 gully. The arete started out just fine (~.6-.7 for about 30 feet on decent rock) then it kind of turned to sh.. - rock quality started deteriorating quickly and the going got hard for me. Thought it was harder than 5.8. Topped out on a ledge at a notch in this arete. REAL loose sh.. further up the arete scrared me. Rapped ~25 feet left back into the correct 5.7 gully and continued to top this way.

Not sure if this "diarrhea" above answered your question :) ?

Fun climb - thanks for posting the route in the first place (helped us decide which route to climb)!

Viewing: 1-9 of 9