Via Ham & Eggs with my pal Kerr Adams. 16 hours round-trip though we took our time on the descent. Loved camping on the glacier!
Stormed off of Ham and Eggs. Rappeled through building avalanches. Parter fell all the way into a crevasse (on skis!) at glacier edge.
Awsome route, great views of the Gorge, fun climbing. The route is very condition dependant. We had a lot of sluffing going on, some rotten ice on the crux pitch and wet slides as we descended. good times!
In 2002 Chris Thomas and I started down on the Ruth Glacier between the Moose's Tooth and Mt. Dickey where our base camp was set up. We climbed up the glacier, through the "hidden gully" and up onto the flat spot below "Shaken, Not Stirred" and set up our high camp. The next day, we did the route from camp to camp in 16 hours. The route was 18 pitches, and we stopped to belay 5 times. The first pitch was the most difficult, but there were a few tricky spots after that. We had planned to go to the true summit, but decided against it because of heavy snow on the upper slopes, so we tagged the col and did the 18 200 foot raps to the bottom. On Day 3 we went back down to our basecamp. I wrote a trip report for the website North American Classic Climbs (naclassics.com).
Chuck Wild and I climbed the West Ridge to West Summit in May of 1997. We camped way over by the Mountain House over in the Sheldon Amphitheatre. It took us a day to move from our basecamp up to just below the upper shoulder of the Moose's Tooth (above the icefalls). The next day we went to the West Summit and hacked a tent platform out and camped right there, a few meters below by the Englishman's Col. As we neared the summit, a huge chunk of cornice that we had just passed broke off - pretty terrifying. I thought it was an earthquake. On Day 3 we traversed over and took a look at the ridge leading over to the true summit, but decided not to go for it (probably a wise choice for us back then), and instead headed all the way down to basecamp that day. The exposure of the couloir is spectacular - 3000 feet or so. The exposure right under our tent at the summit was about 4000 feet. We anchored the hell out of it that night...