The parallel east ridge of the well known Salbitschijen in central Switzerland is home to some great climbing. The 'parallel east ridge' itself is a nice introductory climb to the area but for those looking for a bit more challenge Morgesunnä is a good option. Situated just to the right of the 'parallel east ridge' route it is about 2 pitches longer, has a higher overall difficulty and a more difficult crux pitch (5c instead of 5a). The route is very well bolted which makes it a low - stress introduction to the Salbit area!
From the Salbit hut follow the trail that leads in a westernly direction across the moraine. From there take the trail that leads upwards across the rubble. The Salbit and it's parallel east ridge are easily recognizable from here but don't head straight out towards them over the rubble. There is a small trail which is hard to see until you are on top of it but which does make for a far easier approach! Take this trail and make your way to the base of the parallel east ridge. Both routes are easily recognized by looking for the first bolts.
Gearing up for the Morgesunnä
The route takes you across a lot of slabby granite (4 pitches 4c) but has some near vertical sections as well. About halfway through the route there is an 80 meter scramble across easy terrain to reach the next length. From there it's 3 pitches (4c, 4b, 4b) towards the ridge and the crux. The crux pitch involves a steep and exposed vertical section which is graded at 5c. It's exhilarating to climb and really gives the route that much more flavour.
After the crux pitch two short and easy pitches (4b, 3b) take you to the end of the route. To get back down to the hut downclimb/scramble across a steep scree slope. There is an obvious path and stonemen to show you the way. Be careful when there are more parties coming down this way as stonefall is a very real danger in this broad couloir.
Once you're out of the couloir and back on the moraine take the same path as you took to get to the base of the route to reach the Salbit hut.
The route is well bolted but in one or two places it can still get a bit runout so take one or two friends and a small rack of rocks with you and of course some slings.
Helmet is essential!
2x 50m ropes allow you to abseil your way out of trouble after the 5th pitch.
Map: Swiss 1:25000 #1232 'Urseren'
Swiss 1:25000 #1211 'Meiental'
Guidebook: Salbit Erleben!
External LinksSalbit hut