"Mostly Dead" takes the right arete of the southeastern half of the
northeast face of Pyramid Peak. Overall it is an interesting route with
some fun climbing. The first two pitches are clean, splitter, and
classic; it would be a four star route if the whole route was like this.
Unfortunately, the upper pitches are not quite as solid.
The route follows an obvious arete on the northeast face of Pyramid Peak.
The route starts 120m up the arete. Take the central couloir that splits
Pyramid Peak's northeast face in two until an obvious sandy slope (2nd
class) on the left leads to a notch in the arete. An alternative
approach / route extension is to start at the very base of the arete,
just to the left. 100m of 3rd and 4th class traversing right around a
tower on the arete leads to a 20m 5.6 pitch back to the sandy notch. The
1100' route length refers to the full arete.
Pitch 1 - A weird
undercling on thin flakes leads to a tight hands crack in a left facing
corner (5.8). This becomes a double crack to a ledge. Follow a tight
dihedral up and right of the ledge until it is possible to traverse
right on to a broken face. Belay at a small ledge. This is a four star
Pitch 2 - From the belay ledge climb up and left
around a corner to a killer left facing dihedral that goes from loose
hands to loose fingers. At the end of the dihedral is a small ledge
below a right trending tips finger crack (5.9). The terrain after
lessens in angle and difficulty. Belay at the plush ledge before a sandy
notch in the ridge. This is a four star pitch. 50m
Pitch 3 -
Cross the sandy notch to where the ridge splits into two. Loose 3rd
class up the deep gully in the middle, moving right where difficult,
leads to a large ledge right of the gully below a easy looking step. 50m
Pitch 4 - A short step (5.6) is passed on the left close to
the gully and then head to the base of the deep chimney with large
Pitch 5 - Climb the face to the right of the
chimney (5.8) until able to traverse into the deep gully again. Follow
the loose gully with various small chockstones until progress is stopped
by a steep headwall blocking the gully completely. 50m
- Traverse down and left out of the deep gully to a shallow chimney
(5.8). When possible traverse back into the gully for long sections of
sandy climbing broken by short rock steps. At the top of the sandy gully
the final short headwall is passed on the left (loose 5.7). 70m
A normal alpine rack with a selection of smaller cams (.3 to 3).