Mount Aberdeen

View High-Resolution Image
Mount Aberdeen

Mount Aberdeen

I found a line (in red) that went right of the bergshrund and allowed me to protect a potential fall in the bergshrund via three exposed ice patches. The line constantly angles back left out of harms way until you reach rock that can be easily scrambled up. This line eats up about 6 ice screws, two per ice patch and involves some traversing on snow/ice. The traditional line to the left crosses the bergshrund at much broader gap and puts you directly below rock fall. We witnessed fresh rock fall in July, 2007. Ascent of the Aberdeen Glacier, Banff National Park, Canadian Rockies, July, 2007
Dow Williams
on Jul 16, 2007 4:01 pm
Image Type(s): Alpine Climbing
Image ID: 312731

Comments

Post a Comment
Viewing: 1-3 of 3
rhyang

rhyang - Jul 16, 2007 4:41 pm - Voted 10/10

Orange vs. Red ?

hey Dow - I see an orange line in the pic, but no red one. The orange line seems to be to the left ... anyhow, looks like fun !

Dow Williams

Dow Williams - Jul 16, 2007 4:59 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Orange vs. Red ?

lol, rob...you have way too much time on your hands to notice such things (the line is still right of the bergshrund of which you can't see much in this photo).......it is a classic, but amazed at how folks simply don't get up it...the group we passed must have taken some huge breaks and then ignored my line...some folks can't adjust to changing conditions....I have a pic we took from the summit that shows them below the rock fall area...huddled for retreat at noon as direct sun started to intensify on the ice fall....I know they only chose that line because of the guide book which is vastly out of date as this glacier and others are changing dramatically....our trip was smooth as silk, but I had two fine partners as well...cheers

rhyang

rhyang - Jul 16, 2007 5:19 pm - Voted 10/10

Re: Orange vs. Red ?

Ah, cool. Let's just say I'm itching to get back to the Sierra after 3.5 months on the sidelines :)

Viewing: 1-3 of 3