Good weather, but windy. No snow on route. Photos on my personal website.
Climbed the Headwall variation of the Mazama Glacier with Martin on the 17th. Due to some computer problems and an overbooked schedule I'm just getting the pictures, so I figured I'd go ahead and post the report.
As Martin said our original plan was to climb The Castle, but it was completely melted out. Settling on the Mazama Glacier we started up at about 5:00 am. We made good time on the lower and upper sections navigating around crevasses as necessary (mainly on the lower section). While taking a break we scoped out the headwall and decided "it needs to be done"!
Martin led out and we traversed over to the top of the South Klickitat Glacier and then headed straight up the slope. It was around 40 degrees at first and quickly increased to around 65-70. When we reached what we thought was the top we were a little suprised to see it was really the front edge of a huge crevasse. This forced us to traverse north about 30-50 yards (just a little nerve racking on a slope of 50+ and softening snow). This led to a narrow chute that ended in a second, even bigger, crevasse. However, I spotted a vertical section (everything else was overhung) on the other side and we crossed a snow bridge and worked our way to it. It looked like about 6 foot but when we got to it, it was probably closer to 12-15 foot. Everything was solid in this area, the crevasse was about 20-25 foot wide and the bottom was solid. Everything looking safe I headed up. I quickly discovered there was a small overhang that made this section a little trickier than I thought and as I got my chest to the top and attempted to swing one of my ice axes over the top so I could pull myself over, my other ice tool popped out and I was free falling backwards. I landed and rocketed to the other side and came to a stop. I quickly took a "mental" inventory and didn't feel anything severe, so I stood up and looked up at Martin who looked like he was trying to figure out what the Hell had just happened. I was ok but a little shook up, Martin then said lets do this without packs. We dropped our packs and he made VERY SHORT work of this section (his greater experience on vertical ice really showed) I tied on the packs and he pulled them up. Then he gave me a boot belay and we were done. Nothing left except the slog to the summit.
All in all this was one of the funnest climbs I've done, although I could have done without the fall. I ended up with a small bruise on my right knee and a small bruise on my right side (I think my pack actually absorded most of the impact). The Mazama Glacier is a beautiful route and the views are stunning. If you haven't done it you should put it on your agenda! The headwall makes for a great finishing variation, but the route is worth it even with the standard finish.
Great climb with moderate weather.
What can I say that my climbing partner hasn't already? See Cornvallis entry below. If there is any one way to make a physically fit person feel out of shape its to climb a mountain. Slow, but persistant, progress was made for the 50 climbers ahead and behind me. The views of sunset and sunrise were fantastic from Lunch Counter. Friendly campers. We felt our gear was safe to keep at camp while we summitted. Views from the top were gorgeous, of course. Weather was perfect. Glissade chutes were a blast!
Not too busy for labor day weekend. Hordes of people coming off the mountain as we hiked in Sun night with dogs in tow. Camped at Lunch Counter, only about 5 other tents there with us. Next morning, we tried to stick to snow for the sake of avoiding scree and tearing up the dogs feet. Stashed our packs at false summit and hit the true summit at noon. Amazing views all the way to Baker! Despite being end of August we still got some very fun glissading in on the way down!
Left Cold Springs at 4:15 PM with a huge pack (annaleiserabinek hope you get an overnight pack soon) and plans to spend the night at the Lunch Counter. Arrived at the Lunch Counter with just enough day left to set up our tent, filter some water, and enjoy an incredible sunset. The cold wind hammered our tent all night so I slept little, but stayed toasty warm thanks to a Nalgene bottle filled with boiling water at the foot of my bag. Climbed out of the tent early to watch the sunrise and was not disappointed. Left camp at around 7 AM with a cold brisk wind that would stay with us to the summit. Once again didn't really need crampons, but would have been nice. The view to the true summit from Pikers Peak was a little disheartening, but only helped spur me on. Took some photos of the shack and surrounding views then walked over to the highest spot on the summit plateau and enjoyed some lunch with brownies for desert. The legendary glissade chutes, while shorter than early in the season, did not disappoint. The chutes looked like bobsled runs, good times! Got back to the Lunch Counter with smiles on our faces, broke camp, hurried down the mountain, and we were off to pick up passes from Jack's to climb Mt. St. Helens the next day. Great couple of days on the mountain! I'm glad we broke it up into 2 days so we had more time to enjoy it. Adams is huge!!
I did this route as a solo day hike. A morning cloud cap and lenticular cloud dissipated, but the winds didn't. Interesting nieve penitentes stood on the summit plateau. Great glissades were still to be had below Pikers Peak.
Had 9 days of cloudless skies in the Cascades.
Craig and I climbed the Mazama Glacier Headwall, which is a great variation to the standard glacier hike. The headwall had one nice pitch of snow to 70 degrees, and was a lot of fun. At the top of the headwall we traversed about 150 feet to the east, then dropped down inside a crevasse. I led up the 15 foot high slightly overhanging ice wall to get out of the crevasse, then belayed Craig up. There we met the hordes of south side hikers. The remainder of the route was hiking on volcanic scree. Weather was beautiful both days.
Our original plan was to do the Castle, Battlement Ridge variation. However, this route was completely melted out, and we heard rockfall. We looked at doing one of the hardcore routes, North or South Klickitat Glacier Icefalls. These routes are considered alpine testpieces. They looked extremely difficult, and the approach looked badly crevassed this late during the year. We decided against it after speaking with a man at sunrise camp who had climbed it a few year ago. His party spent a full 12 hours just on the icefall portion. Yikes! This route is now offically on my ticklist.
A prefect day for climbing, clear sky, low wind and firm snow. Camped at the lunch counter with four other people. Overall a great weekend on the mountain.
Camped at roughly 7,000' just below the snow line, and climbed to summit from there. An absolutely beautiful day without a cloud in the sky and hardly any wind. Passed some climbers on their way down to the south summit and ended up with the true summit to myself. Fantastic views of Ranier, St. Helens, and Hood. The glissade tracks were so deep I felt like a bobsled on the way down.
Wild windy trip!
lenticular cap over true summit.
Had the true summit to ourselves
50-70 mph winds.
Have the pictures to prove it.
climbing partners JW Port, K Port
Gorgeous weather. We camped just below lunch counter and headed for the summit at 8:15 AM. Reached the summit in about 3.5 hours and glissaded down in 5 minutes !! plus a half hour to get down from the true summit to the false summit.
Partners: Steve Reynolds, Sean Smith, John Baumeister.
To this day, I still rave about the great glissade down!
Camped just below Lunch Counter and experienced a fierce lightning storm followed by a spectacular sunset. Summit day was sunny and warm for the long slog to the top. Great glissading on the way down!
Climbed with four other friends. We spent the first night just below Sunrise Camp. We roped up for the Mazama but free climbed all the rest of the route up to the false summit after it joined South Spur. The weather turned sour as I was climbing from Pikers Peak to the summit. Two of my friends had made it to the summit just moments before cloud cover blocked the view. According to Brian the wind was so strong that it kept knocking him to his knees. I decided to turn around and not climb the last 600 verticle feet due to no visability. Adams is a big mountain with equally big weather!
After climbing Mt Hood on Friday July 11th, I drove to Cold Springs campground that same Friday July 11th. Got there at 2:00pm, got all my stuff ready for the next day and went to bed at 3:00pm Friday July 11th. Woke up at 2:00am (Saturday, July 12th) and started hiking by 3:00am. Encountered some rather strong winds on the final slope just before Piker's Peak. The wind did not let up. It was windy all the way to the summit. A couple of times it almost made me lose my balance. I reached the summit at 8:40am. Stayed there for 20 minutes trying to take self-pictures with the howling winds. Left the summit at 9:00am. Took a lunch break near some rocks by Piker's Peak (winds still blowing strong here) and then I cut two holes on a large black trash bag to put my legs through and my butt for the glissade. In less than 15 minutes, I was down by Lunch Rock. This was by far the greatest glissade I've been on. I felt like a bobsledder on the glissade runnels. Then after that, I basically walked back to the trailhead. Was back on my car at 11:35am (8:35 hrs C-T-C).
Whew, what a big mountain. I hit snow at 6400 feet and that was the norm from then on. Perfect day until I hit the top of Piker's Peak, then the cold artic wind had me putting on all my extra warm clothes. Summitted, and enjoyed the glissade back down to Lunch counter from Pikers peak. It was fun to whiz by those toiling up the slope. A great day. I did this car to car. 3 quarts of water barely enough.
Did a two day climb wih my friend Rob Vaughn (rvaughn). Left Cold Springs late morning and hiked up to the Lunch Counter for the night. The otherwise warm calm day gave way to increased winds early in the evening. The winds picked up and hammered our tent all night. We awoke to cloudy skies below but a clear summit.
The winds remained strong throughout our climb. Winds were well in excess of 50 mph as we hit the top of Pikers Peak and the only party in front of us turned around. As we descended into the saddle toward the summit the winds subsided slightly.
We hit the summit only preceded by "Marty" who we watched storm up the mountain and pass us just below the summit.
The glissade down from Pikers Peak to Lunch Counter is the best!!
I could not have asked for a better weekend to climb Adams. To our great surprise, there were much fewer people there than expected. We had the best camp area for our 4 sites with a stream of water running in between us, and literally no one else around us. What more could you ask for? We had anticipated an insane crowd, but the only people on the mountain consisted of 3 other camps that were about 1000 feet below us. There were late starters headed for the summit, but we were on our way down by then.
The weather was very clear and hot. In the afternoon, our camp's temp hit a scorching 98 degrees. Too hot for me. The strong wind gusts helped cool me down. We counted no more than 20 other people on, or even near the summit. I guess it is hit and miss with the crowds. (Ranger said 400 registered climbers were on the mountain the weekend before.) The snow was a little nice and hard on the way up, and was just beginning to soften up a bit on our glissade down.