Three teams from Sierra Mountaineering Club successfully climbed the North Face route. We left from the highway before 1 am and spent the early morning navigating the pretty broken and challenging icefall in the ablation zone and the huge crevasses on the upper shelf. The face was snow transitioning to ice at the top. It was a fun climb and well protected by screws. We descended to the AA col but chose to walk off the Athabasca north glacier route instead of rappelling. Fun time!
Tricky getting onto and across the glacier, then a couple pitches of ice getting off the deck, though the bergschrund was not bad. After that, I had well-consolidated and -bonded snow to the ridge. A fun route, though getting off the mountain is a bit of an ordeal. Trip report.
Climbed Skyladder with great snow conditions. Maybe half pitch of ice. Climbed with Andrew and Mark Nugara and Trevor Bueckert.
Climbed the route which was mostly snow, on a cloudy day. Fortunately the clouds split for a while on the summit for us to get a view and made the descent a little simpler. Thunder greeted us immediately before rapping down the face from the AA col. That got us going! All in all a great adventure and a beautiful route. However later that year the snow and ice completely melted on some sections and exposed the loose rock below. Therefore the route may not be as enjoyable later in the season in the coming years.
what a gorgeous route! really enjoyed following those canadians who did all the postholing for us, thanks dudes!! I heart canadians!!!
We camp the night before the summit just at the bottom of the glacier. The next morning we started our summit attempt. Due to the fact that we climbed Mt. Andromeda late in the season most of the snow already melted which maked quite a difficult tast to find our way through the gigantic sir-rocks. We moved very slow but finally reached the famous bergshrund which separated the 50 deg wall from the glacier. Being only 200 m from the summit the thunderstorm suddenly stroke and we had to retreat. The weather conditions on that day were far from being desired. Thus we decided to take our chances in other parts if the Jasper/Banff Provincial Parks.
Climbed with Rick Johnson.
Descent via the South Ridge.