Crux gully was in decent condition; not good enough for any screws though! Amazing route and position.
Good weather, bony conditions. Had to pitch out rock step on the ridge. Exit gully no ice, all wet rock. Traversed the West Face to exit. Descended the ramp back to the Bonar. 13 hours RT from French Ridge hut.
Walked in and out via Bevan Col. Went up NW Ridge from Colin Todd Hut, skirting around the buttress on exposed ledges on the Therma side. An enjoyable mix of rock and snow!
My and my friend Hans, we climb the Coxcomb Ridge from Pope's Nose. It was very good but we got hungry when we are eating all our chips. Still, we got to top at 1pm (left 7am from snowcave on Pope's Nose) and have a good celebratory sex, very fun. Then we go down, this was not as good because my jeans were wet and I got the cold.
But very fun, New Zealand have some of the good climbing.
Climbed with Adv. Consultants. Up the NW Ridge via the Ramp. Summitted on second attempt after strong winds turned us around the first time. Ramp was in excellent shape.
NW Ridge with Aspiring Guides. About 5 hours up and same down in very good weather.
Fantastic route in great conditions when we did it: some rock, some water ice, some mixed, and a lot of styrofoam snow. Amazing! See our TR and pics here.
An excellent climb, including the stunning approach through Bevan Col. Started off with gale force winds in the morning, died down to perfect calm by the time we got to the summit. Definitely one of my favorite trips in New Zealand.
Late season climb, only route that was in. 90% rock route but finally some snow and ice right before the summit. Some difficulty route finding but otherwise nice climb as clouds opened up for about an hour as we were approaching the summit. 11hr round trip from Colin Todd hut. Fly in, walk out.
Climbed with Tibor, a guide from Adventure Consultants. Up French Ridge & down the Bonar glacier to Colin Todd. Then followed the top of the NW ridge from above the hut to the summit. The ramp was out of condition with 50m+ exposed rock at the bottom. Rapelled off the ridge & walked back down the Bonar glacier to the hut. Return to Rasberry Flat via Bevan Col. A week of excellent weather!
Summit with T. Haines. Bivy right below ridge. Good amount of ice in the couloir, but crappy rime ice. Decended NW ridge. Avoided the Ramp and continued down buttress. Rock on Buttress sucks, the Ramp can't be as bad as that thing. See the TR HERE.
Walked in via French Ridge....this time only one weather day there (last year 5) over Q-deck.
Superb day. 10.5 roundtrip hours from C-Todd via NW ridge all the way. Second to the last party to leave and second to summit that day after Brandon and Andruw. Convective lifting added to scenery and resulted in light snow showers in the early afternoon. With Pete J from Aspiring guides and Sir Henry from Wanaka.
Returned to Wanaka via Bevan Col and down Matukituki....left C-Todd at 5:30 arrived Raspberry flat around 3:30.
Climbed SW ridge with Al & Paddy after bivvying on the Bonar Glacier beneath Mt French. Soft conditions made for a long day out. Weather was absolutely magic. Spent the night in Colin Todd Hut on the way back down NW Ridge. Be very careful on the Ramp, it's pretty ugly after a sunny day.
we walked in to french ridge same old next day went over to nw ridge in good conditions and started up nw ridge we turened around at about 2800m just below top of ramp we desended down nw and back up boner glacier back to french ridge good trip 15 hours but no summit good job paul
Me and a friend walked in to french ridge with intention on climbing west face we wer stuckat french ridge for 2 days before being able to climb i soloed up to q deak to hav a look the conditions wer soft snow with clearing weather so with the short weather window we left french ridge at 9 pm on day 3 and climbed up to q deak on the way up i fell in a big cravase but managed to get out we went over to base of sw ridge by moon light conditions werevery scechy snoft snow briges with very fant light we turened around at base f face 2700m and desended to boner then back down to french ridge good but scary trip
I aranged to met my climbing parter at scott biv and then went up to beven col in cloudy weather and over to colin todd hut the next day we wet up the full nw ridge doing one 10 m pitch grade 10 n the way to the summit ridge then up ridge to summit.then back to colin todd the next day we woke up to a huge storm we toke a bering to beven col in bad weather then down to scott bivy and out great first 3000er
I soloed in to french ridge and met ben the hut warden .we decided to climb the sw ridge. so at midnight we climbed up to Q deak in great clear weather and went over to the base of sw ridge we soloed up to the gully were we done 2 piches 65 0 great conditions a bit icey just right after that a little more soloing to the summit.We desended down the nw ridge back to french ridge it took 19 1/5 hours
We got a good attempt to summit Mt.Aspiring 19.1.2005, but there weather conditions were too risky. The ramp was blocked. The crevasses there were too wide to across, so we took the ridge earlier than normally. But end of the technical rock climbing part on the ridge the wind was too hard (80-100 km/h in peaks). We turned back for safety reason. Better luck next time..
Climbed the SW Ridge with Michael Tselman after 4 days of waiting at French Ridge Hut. We went to the hut with 4 days of food, but stretched this to 7 days, hoping to take advantage of a 36 hour forecasted weather window. On December 19, the weather cleared and we climbed via the Quarterdeck to gain the Bonar Glacier. On reaching the foot of the SW Ridge, we dug a snow cave, where we rested until 2:30AM. We started for the summit at 5AM on December 20 and found good conditions. One tricky step early on the ridge required a belay and after this we simul-climbed on 45-50 degree slopes until the three crux pitches at the top of the route. The first pitch was steep ice with good sticks, but no opportunities for screws and after this, two more pitches of 60 degree alpine ice to join the NW Ridge. From the summit, we descended the NW Ridge, intending to take "The Ramp" back to the Bonar, but we ended up in the West Couloir (NZ Grade 3) due to an error on my part. About 4 pitches of belayed downclimbing and one rappel got us back to the glacier and our bivy. After collecting our gear, we headed back to French Ridge Hut and then to the car the following day. Bivy to Summit 7 hours, Summit to Bivy 4.5 hours, Bivy to Hut 2.5 hours.