Mount Athabasca Climber's Log

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attimount - Dec 10, 2009 1:33 am Date Climbed: Jul 15, 2008

Silverhorne  Sucess!

Another beautiful day on the mountains.


lloyd - Jul 19, 2009 5:58 pm

U never forget your 1st  Sucess!

First real mountain. Hellafun.


FlatheadJim - Jul 5, 2009 9:19 pm Date Climbed: Jun 3, 2001

Standard route  Sucess!

Climbed in 2003 also


justing - Jul 5, 2009 10:11 am Date Climbed: Jul 3, 2009

North Face  Sucess!

A fantastic route and perfect weather. No wind and great views of many distant summits. The rock step was as difficult as advertised. My first mixed pitch - what a great way to start!


ArankaP - Mar 5, 2009 12:33 am Date Climbed: Jul 19, 2008

Route Climbed:North Glacier with Brian (Dunsum) and Lubos  Sucess!

Great weather, early start. Fantastic view on Mt Bryce. Descended down to the AA col.


jmitch421 - Sep 8, 2008 5:28 pm Date Climbed: Aug 26, 2008

North Glacier  Sucess!

Started out around 3:30am my friend who had never climbed before was having a tough time (fitness) he stayed with some other climbers at the base off to the right of the Silverhorn and we climbed up to the summit with clear views after snow earlier in the morning. Awesome trip!!! :)

William Marler

William Marler - Aug 25, 2008 1:27 pm Date Climbed: Aug 16, 2008

Sunny Day on Athabasca  Sucess!

Tom Marron and I climbed (and descended) Athabasca by the north glacier route on his arm sunny day. The ascent took 4 3/4 hours. It was warm, sunny, and still to stand comfortably on the summit in shirt sleeves. The descent, on surprisingly firm snow despite the warm weather, took 3 hours.


caputaka - Aug 10, 2008 2:19 pm Date Climbed: Aug 3, 2008

Standard Route then down AA Col  Sucess!

Started hiking up the moraines 3:50AM. Summit by 8:00. Descended the AA Col - a MUCH SAFER option as it faces north and the snow stays frozen for longer. Back at car at 11:20. Other group that day started at 7:00am - a little late given the snow conditions I think.

Steve Larson

Steve Larson - Aug 3, 2008 11:15 am Date Climbed: Jul 28, 2008

North Face  Sucess!

Climbed this with Bill Nootens on a beautiful day. Glacier travel was reasonable, though we got a bit off the beaten track on the way up and punched through a hidden slot. We were about an hour behind another party that left at 3:00 am. We caught up with them at the base of the route, but couldn't quite pass them. Pity, because that meant taking Barry Blanchard's suggested traverse around the standard exit. If the standard exit was hard (Blanchard called it "mixed 5.9?"), then the traverse from the left was harder. And scary. Loose and difficult to protect. We spent about two hours on two short traverse pitches before regaining the route. Ice conditions on the face were so-so. There was generally good ice (some dinner plating) under a variable layer of old snow. You had to excavate somewhere between 4" and 12" of crap to get decent screws. We ended up taking 17 hours car-to-car.


dunsum - Jul 27, 2008 4:01 pm Date Climbed: Jul 20, 2008

Silverhorn  Sucess!

Climbed with Lubos Pavel. Six inches of rotten ice covered the good ice. Fun climb; we finished early enough to make a safe descent of the Normal Route which was getting very mushy even still.


dunsum - Jul 27, 2008 3:58 pm Date Climbed: Jul 19, 2008

North Glacier  Sucess!

An early start was mandatory as the snow softened quickly. Climbed with Lubos and Aranka - the summit ridge is spectacular. We descended the AA Col.


Jakester - May 27, 2008 1:34 pm Date Climbed: May 25, 2008

Route Climbed: AA Col

Avalanche conditions forced us to turn around at 9,500 feet. Heard many thunderous avalanches on the way down, confirming our decision. Still had a great time.

IanKnox - Apr 20, 2008 3:54 pm Date Climbed: Jun 26, 2006

Standard Route  Sucess!

Great intro climb.


MtnMagic - Oct 15, 2007 11:47 am

North Glacier, Silverhorn and North Face  Sucess!

Climbed three routes on this very accessible peak. Normal route: 1999 and 2002, Silverhorn: 2003 North Face: 2003 (rapped down almost the whole face after my partner took a 20m fall on the smooth face). One thing that was worrysome on these ascent was the stability of the snow on the traverse on the descent of the normal route. It is best to climb the peak early in the day to be off by midday.


esugi - Sep 19, 2007 1:07 am Date Climbed: Sep 16, 2007

Athabasca NF  Sucess!

Climbed the NF round trip in 15 hours. I think we started on route around 8am and topped out around 4:30pm. This route is not to be taken lightly. Considering the big face, poor ice conditions (rotten ice and shattering everywhere), and rock band crux that had no ice (nowhere near the 5.4 that the Selected Climbs book rates it as, more like 5.8), you have to have your A-game.

It was fun and a great teaser for the upcoming ice climbing season.

My first Canadian Rockies alpine route! I have to go back and climb there more often.

setrent - Sep 4, 2007 12:17 am Date Climbed: Aug 28, 2007

Sliverhorn  Sucess!

Decided the North Face was out of condition with all of the fresh snow. The Silverhorn route was a good second choice, an asthetic line up the mountain. Much fun.


cp0915 - Aug 3, 2007 3:57 am Date Climbed: Jul 28, 2007

North Glacier  Sucess!

Started up the Silverhorn with Bala. Considering the condition of the route, I was not comfortable soloing it; belaying would have been impractical. While Bala, who was comfortable doing a solo of the route, continued up, I dropped back down to the North Glacier and went up that way. Scrambled up to the final ice summit in my approach shoes - a touch dicey.

Awesome views of Columbia, Bryce, et al, from the summit.


spotly - Jul 20, 2007 3:41 pm Date Climbed: May 29, 2005

AA Col

Great weather and good cramponing. The view from the summit was fantastic. Climbed with Eric P and a "few" others.


Geofflamp - Feb 15, 2007 3:16 am Date Climbed: Aug 16, 2007

N Glacier  Sucess!

Did the N Glacier highway. Nobody on the mountain on a gorgeous August day, but the snow was getting calf-deep by 11AM. Route is more of a walk than was expected, but still a glorious day out. Silverhorn had a lot of blue ice, swept bare.


chrisferro - Jan 13, 2007 11:15 pm

North Face, 1994

Steve Cosmi and I climbed the North Face of Athabaska in 23 hours round trip, car to car. This was my first big mountain route, and it was a doozy. I was still a smoker back then, and it took us forever just to get to the route, then we pitched the whole climb, leap-frogging leads instead of simul-climbing. The rock band exit was very exciting, with one lonely piton as my belay anchor while Steve led out, put in a few crappy screws and then finally got a good stopper in up high near the end of the rock band. We summitted at 9:30pm and came down in the dark. The aurora borealis was beautiful that night...

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