Cold and windy. Clear skies up top but cloudy below, only other mountain peaking out was Rainier.
First glaciated peak climb. Warm, sunny, windless at the summit was a treat.
No views, pretty close to whiteout most of the day :(
Small expedition out of my home in Oakland, California. Flight into Sea-Tac. Rental car. Drive to Mt. Vernon. Motel overnight. Drive into the Heliotrope TH. Warm day so by mid-mountain every step a dune-climb at the beach. The climb from the saddle little by little thinned out the field, challenging slush. I had the summit to myself and standing on the knob was worth the extra hoof. Last man off the mountain became interesting with the days changes in the crevasse scene. An outstanding adventure in the beautiful state of Washington.
Kessler's 14th birthday was on May 17th and my 42nd (ugh) will be on June 13, so we decided to combine our birthday presents and have an adventure between the two. We decided on Mount Baker. Since there are crevasses and since it is unlikely that Kessler could pull me out of a crevasse if the need arose, we enlisted the expertise of Crew Treks for their light-guided Mt Baker trip (I would highly recommend them).
We met Kyohei from Crew Treks and Tomek in Seattle and drove to the trailhead. We started up to the Coleman Glacier camp in hot weather. Since the snow was really melting, we had to cross several streams. There was snow starting at below 5,000 feet, but the weather was good.
We made it to the Coleman Glacier camp without a hitch, where we set up camp. The weather was perfectly clear and quite hot (considering our elevation).
We awoke at 2 am in order to pack up for the summit climb. The night was warm and it never did freeze, so the snow was softer than usual. The climb to the summit went well and since it was early season there were no large crevasses to cross.
We made our way up the steep headwall to the summit plateau and then onto the summit. The views were fantastic, but unfortunately, it was a little hazy.
We then descended the mountain back to camp and packed up. We had some really good and long glissades on our way back to the trailhead. It was a great climb.
Camped above 6,000 ft. and made summit by way of Roman Wall next morning. Enjoyed every minute. Next up Mt. rainier!
Great time for my first glaciated climb. Summited, but that Roman wall kicked my butt.
Camped on North Face, started early and summitted by 9 AM with 3 X 3 person rope teams.
Peanuts do nothing for snow blindness. Check your buddy's gear. He might regret bringing that 5lb bucket of peanuts and no sunglasses.
Awesome climb though. Left the Tacoma area around 2AM on a Saturday, tagged the summit via Coleman Deming, and drove home the same day. Watch out for all of those hidden crevasses!
Coleman-Deming route. Camped on rock (spectacular sites) at about 6900'. Woke up at 3am, leisurely pace, back at camp by 1pm-ish. Didn't see another soul. Route in great condition. Really stellar climb.
Camped just below the glacier. Left camp at 5:00am and summited around noon, back to camp at 5:00pm. The crevasses are open wide thus the long summit day of zig zagging our way around. The weather was perfect all day then started raining that night after our summit. We hiked out in the rain happy that we came in on a Thursday. We had the summit ALL to ourselves.
Shout out to Graham's Restaurant in Glacier. Great place to eat and relax after the climb.
Hot and looks like late August.
Came in on Saturday and camped at about 7500ft. Got up a little after 1am and were moving by 2am, made it to the summit for the sunrise. Awesome Day!
Busy day on Mt Baker thanks to good weather. Long day with sun rising early to warm us up and unleash some seracs off Colfax peaks as we were climbing up. But made it through and to the summit safely with a nice cat nap at the summit before hiking back to camp and out to the trailhead in one long day.
For the full video trip report check out our adventure film below:
A group of 3 of us made an attempt at the Coleman-Deming route on June 13-14 after being turned around on the same dates a year ago because of weather. This time, the conditions were incredible and we were super surprised by how high the snowline was this year. We had heard that the snowpack was 20% of the usual, but we were shocked by how much elevation we were able to gain on the dirt.
We left for the summit from basecamp at the Black Buttes at 2:30am. Hit the Roman Wall at 5:30 and summited at 6:30. Excellent temperatures, great step purchase on the roman wall and outstanding views from the summit.
03/09/15 Climbed Colfax Peak via the Cosley-Houston then Traversed over and hiked up Baker to top out the day at sunset.. all after working a night shift
07/24/17 Coleman/Demming with Caroline and Alex.!skied down
solo. Took a long time for trail breaking through calf deep snow. 9 hrs to summit from heliotrope parking.
obscured down low at camp, went for it anyway, sunny and clear on top!
It was a frigid morning, but a great day for sure.
Camped Saturday night. Up early with lots of company. An amazing day with a bit of fumerole stink. Windy summit and BF had to relieve himself ASAP at summit with little privacy.