Excellent route! Climbed right into a whiteout and didn't see much on the summit but was still worth it. Climbed with Jamie and Josh.
Joined the hordes on the C/D on the hottest day of the year (so far). Started climbing at 4 AM and got down before the heat of the day. Much easier than anticipated, but still a lot of fun.
Conditions were warm and very sunny on the Heliotrope Trail to high camp just below the Black Buttes at about 6,700 ft. Many crevasses were seen on the lower Coleman Glacier but none were large enough to cause serious concern. At 1:05 am we heard the distinctive sound of an avalanche higher up the mountain. We began our summit bid at 3:30 am on 1 July with warm temps and snow that was high in water content and consolidated just under the surface. The Roman Wall was firm and deserves its reputation for being fairly steep. Spencer, Kent and I summited under full sun and increasingly soft snow. The descent was warm, with very soft snow and a seamingly endless train of climbers going up. Following our departure from high camp, we encountered yet more climbers and skiers and upon reaching the trail head, the parking area was packed with cars extending beyond the parking area about a quarter mile in each direction. This is a popular climb.
Baker is a beautiful climb and offers the mountaineer spectacular views from the summit. Highly recommended.
My second Baker summit. Brought Eniko and Briley up.
climbed the north ridge, AI3, with lemke and josh. today was one of those incredible times that brands itself deep in your memory, a fantastic line on a powerful line in a remote setting. love baker! what a mountain!
Coleman-Deming/Heliotrope Ridge route.
July 2-3 2017.
Perfect approach day - bluebird skies & great conditions. Just able to park at the Trailhead (first weekend to do so after heavy snowpack winter). Basecamp setup on Coleman glacier near Black Buttes. Most smaller crevasses covered - no sketchy crossings until higher elevations.
Overnight major storm hit - winds high enough to destroy a 4-season tent (rental from MEC). Up at 1:30 for coffee and to gear-up. Had to take-down tents due to conditions (would blow off the mtn if we weren't sleeping in them). 2 other groups plus ourselves, decided to rope up & make a summit attempt - we followed their path. Departed around 3:30am amidst blowing wind & heavy overcast conditions. Both other groups turned back around 6am. We continued briefly to the saddle between the Roman Wall & Colfax. Complete white-out. Evidence of significant and recent avalanche debris all around us. Large crevasses to navigate around - could barely see them in time. Post-holed a bit, prayed, waited 15 minutes for a miracle - then decided to return to basecamp.
Packed up gear and glissaded much of the way off the glacier & down the hogsback. Watch for hidden crevasses in the snow-pack adjacent to hogback, especially where creeks cross. Deep enough to swallow you. Had to jump across one, about 4ft wide & 20ft deep.
Approach trail was mixed - snow & open trail. Glacier creek crossing was very sketchy - although everyone appeared to make it. Many groups heading up on Saturday afternoon as we headed out.
All in all - a beautiful 2 days on the mountain with my 3 sons. Psalm 121 came alive.
More or less walked up with a fellow peakbagger who had much more experience with glaciers and snow. Beautiful weather, lots of people out enjoying the mountain.
Camped at Hogsback, spent a day on the glacier practicing crevasse rescue. Summited around 5:45am on day 3 with a windy whiteout at the microclimate starting at the Roman Wall and continuing all around the summit crater. Crazy day!
Made it halfway up the mountain hiking / skinning. Lenticular formed over the mountain as we were going to bed that night with not the best forecast. Saw clouds approaching over the sisters to the West. Lots of rain / wind all night - woke up in a whiteout. Ended up scrapping the climb and playing around doing crevasse rescue practice before heading out
Excellent weather the whole weekend; even at 3AM I was comfortable hiking in a pair of pants and a long sleeve shirt. Crevasses have started opening up a moderate amount, but navigating around them is still quite easy. Reached the summit at around 6:30 in the morning, and spent about 45 minutes enjoying the views (and the pack of gummy bears I carried to the top).
Some of the most interesting snow and crevasse I've seen. Very late in season and crevasses were all exposed. I liked hiking through forest and popping out in the middle of a mountain. Gaining the ridge it was a little windy, and summit ridge is spectacular. Great views of BC to North. Skied the next day and explored Coleman Glacier.
Climbed via the Coleman Glacier.
Left camp at 2:15am, great conditions all day, though pretty sunny and hot by noon.
Sunny day for a climb of Baker. Some of the crevasses on the Coleman-Deming route were beginning to open up, but you could still cross them all via snow bridges or small jumps.
Cold and windy. Clear skies up top but cloudy below, only other mountain peaking out was Rainier.
First glaciated peak climb. Warm, sunny, windless at the summit was a treat.
No views, pretty close to whiteout most of the day :(
Small expedition out of my home in Oakland, California. Flight into Sea-Tac. Rental car. Drive to Mt. Vernon. Motel overnight. Drive into the Heliotrope TH. Warm day so by mid-mountain every step a dune-climb at the beach. The climb from the saddle little by little thinned out the field, challenging slush. I had the summit to myself and standing on the knob was worth the extra hoof. Last man off the mountain became interesting with the days changes in the crevasse scene. An outstanding adventure in the beautiful state of Washington.
Kessler's 14th birthday was on May 17th and my 42nd (ugh) will be on June 13, so we decided to combine our birthday presents and have an adventure between the two. We decided on Mount Baker. Since there are crevasses and since it is unlikely that Kessler could pull me out of a crevasse if the need arose, we enlisted the expertise of Crew Treks for their light-guided Mt Baker trip (I would highly recommend them).
We met Kyohei from Crew Treks and Tomek in Seattle and drove to the trailhead. We started up to the Coleman Glacier camp in hot weather. Since the snow was really melting, we had to cross several streams. There was snow starting at below 5,000 feet, but the weather was good.
We made it to the Coleman Glacier camp without a hitch, where we set up camp. The weather was perfectly clear and quite hot (considering our elevation).
We awoke at 2 am in order to pack up for the summit climb. The night was warm and it never did freeze, so the snow was softer than usual. The climb to the summit went well and since it was early season there were no large crevasses to cross.
We made our way up the steep headwall to the summit plateau and then onto the summit. The views were fantastic, but unfortunately, it was a little hazy.
We then descended the mountain back to camp and packed up. We had some really good and long glissades on our way back to the trailhead. It was a great climb.
Camped above 6,000 ft. and made summit by way of Roman Wall next morning. Enjoyed every minute. Next up Mt. rainier!