Nice walk along the Easton Glacier.
An excellent day in the wilderness - from the time we passed the little family a mile from the trailhead to the summit, we didn't see another human.
The route is in good condition. The rope at the basalt cliff is stiff and has a couple of knots in it, but was okay for using as pro. We brought at 50m rope, which isn't long enough to rapel from; we had to downclimb the last 20 feet or so.
We camped around 7200' ( I think.) Headed up around 6:00 AM, and roped up at around 9,000' at the top of the cleaver, and got to the summit around 11:30. There were dozens of people up there, it was like a city park - there was even a couple with a dog, who'd come up the Squawk Glacier.
Climbed with SIG group. Vlad, Daniel, and what's her name.
Seattle Mountaineers outing. We hiked in the Coleman glacier, set up camp in heavy falling snow. Woke up to 2' of fresh cascade concrete. We opted to bail on a summit attempt to climbed up a few thousand feet, busting trail, just for experience.
Climbed with Seattle Mountaineers
I can see why this one is such a popular trainer for Rainier. Good for practicing rope travel without feeling like you are ever going to fall in a crevasse.
This is a very busy route. Kind of takes away from the fun of being in the mountains. But there are no choke points really... maybe by the crater and the section just above the crater.
We camped the night before and managed to find some water on a higher camping area than everyone else. Sure beats having to melt all that snow.
Overall this is an easy route. You could literally not study the route, follow the signs to Railroad Grade, and follow the path in the snow to summit. Not too difficult. I do not suggest that, but you could.
Beautiful day for a summit. The weather was fantastic, and the snow was perfect for crampons on the ascent. Got to the top at 7:30 Am, and the day was perfectly clear and sunny, with no wind. It was almost spooky without the wind, but a fantastic day for a summit, with an unbeatable view of the North Cascades.
Great trip up spending one overnight on the mountain. Conditions were starting to deteriorate and we had to make one adjustment from prior day attempts on the main route. Really surprised by the number of people on the glacier without adequate gear :/
Summited via the North Ridge June 2019. Gaining the ridge in great conditions and a mixed variation up high! Full trip report here!
Mountaineers trip via Easton route. Plans were to camp at 6200' but at 1:30 p.m. we called it and set up near a small cluster of trees.
Route was heavily crevassed and snow was very slushy. After some discussion by the leadership it was felt that a successful summit would be unlikely and the objective was changed from Baker to Sherman.
I opted out of the push to Sherman as I was not feeling like anything other than Baker would be worth it, choosing instead to save my energies for a couple longer pushes I have planned in the next couple days.
This was a poor decision on my part, it turns out, because most of the team DID actually summit. Their report is that the snow was quite slushy up to about 8000'-9000', punching through a thin crust 6-8 inches. Some felt it was easier to follow the bootpack; others found the footing better just off it.
Crevasses have already opened up quite a bit.
to the Roman Wall
Attained about 8:30am Tuesday morning, after camping two nights on Heliotrope Ridge on guided climb with North Cascades Mountain Guides led by Matt Walker. Beautiful views of Glacier and the tips of some Olympics. Everything else obscured by fire smoke. The awful New Normal for Northwest summers.
Alpine Ascents climb with guide Devin Bishop as first part of 8-day alpine climbing course.
Ski trip. Too icy :-(
Perfect climbing conditions with great snow for cramponing. Roman Wall really reminded me of Hood's old chute.
Due to forecast possible cloud covering the summit and area around, our guide (Baker Mountain Guide) decided to go for summit day early, leaving in the afternoon reaching summit at sunset and then come back down in darkness. We left BC at 2PM, reached summit at around 7.30-8.00PM. Return to the BC at 3AM in the morning. I dropped one hiking pole in crevasse on way down. My toes froze badly that, gradually within 4-8 weeks I lost four toenail, one big toe nail included. Quite an eventful climb.
Great day navigating many crevasses, ice falls, and seracs. Climbed to 9100 feet prior to heading back due to a late start, softening conditions and lack of a clear route to the summit.
Great climb with a 9AM start from 7200 ft Gargoyle Camp. Clear summit with a lower cloudy marine layer at about 1:15
Took a course with Alpine Ascents, learned a ton. Heavily crevassed so took a while but overall great day.