Brilliant weather, windy on summit. Also summited in early '80s as a boy scout via easton glacier.
With me on the top: Ola, Jola. Piotr and Andrzej
Perfect alternative to overcrowded Easton.
Posted by Kris DroBan on Aug 19, 2005 (6 Hits)
In the middle.
Our original plan was to go through Squak Glacier: as I remember from my previous climb, approach and climb is short and fast (in 1998 I climbed in 6 hours from parking lot to the top). Not this year. Glacier Squak with it's original route is impossible (everything is possible) to climb because of huge lines of crevices. On the other hand we have the Easton Glacier with it's crowds waking you up 12 am and is no way that you can go to sleep again because of every fifteen minutes next group of "mountain madness" is preparing for finale assault. So I decide lead my group in the middle, just exact between Easton and Squak. Although approach to the glacier and first couple of thousand feet is independent ,you can easily and quickly reach this place traversing left, Squak Glacier. So when you use Squak approach you need to traverse left using Colfax Peak as a direction.
1 am BC, 8 AM summit.
Easy to follow the footprints in the glacier except at the begining where the glacier is dry. This is also the most dangerous part of the route with the weakiest snow bridges.
Snow very soft getting down, so it would have been better to reach the summit earlier, 6 AM I guess.
Anyway was awesome the sunrise and the views from the summit were breaktaking.
It was amazing to have my wife as a partner as well
Left at 1:00 AM from climbers camp. Reached summit by 7:00 AM. Snow was OK until around 9:00 AM then it got really soft. The crevases at the base were easy to navigate; just aim up the mountain.
Partner tuckered out at 9,600ft so we had to descend, so very very sad. Perfect day. Route was in good shape.
Awesome hike. Really warm. Went to do the North Ridge from high camp but the crevasses were not passable. In case anyone was wondering, we were the retards who camped right below the Icefall at 8200 feet. A ranger, who apparently was a brain surgeon before, told us (with a sweet mountain man lisp) the folly of camping there. Thanks Ranger Rick!! We ended up summating to a windy but mild morning. The crevasses were huge!! If you see any really well used snow cones thank my buddy.
Holy crowds! Fun route. Accidentally (well kind of) decended down the Easton glacier and hitched a ride back into town.
Awesome climb on beautiful facile route.
Crater below Sherman peak was venting Hydrogen Sulphide and steaming.
Summit was cloudless, but very windy and cold. But what a view from this cascade monster.
My first real climb through glaciated territory and loved every minute of it. It was an intense experience in true focus and taught me many skills I use frequently to this day.
Set up high camp below Sherman Peak on the Squak glacier. Woke up at midnight and started up the Squak, but had route finding problems with all the crevasses so we traversed over to the Easton and made the summit with spectacular views. On the descent, clouds rolled in making it hard to see where to go. Thank goodness for wands! Fun climb.
Climbed with agorokhov and ClimbingSnow. Started at 3:00pm from Shreiber's Meadow trailhead (3364') and go to our camp (6400') by 7:00pm on partial white-out conditions. Not sure if it was going to clear, we prepared anyway and hoped for the best. Then, by 10:30pm, it cleared (a sea of stars on the night's sky above). Woke up and walked out of camp at 3:30am. By 4:45am, we didn't need our headlamps. Reached the summit at 9:30am (6 hrs from camp); we're slow. Mostly sunny & clear , but windy at the summit. Excellent views all around. Could see Glacier Peak, Rainier, Shuksan and several other North Cascade peaks. Three hours later we're back to camp. Rested for an hour and then we hiked out. We stopped to eat dinner at Tacos Guaymas in Burlington (I highly recommend the Beef Steak 'Wet' Burrito).
Fun, easy, glacier climb on a (mostly) gorgeous day! A little white-out came up while we were on the summit and made the descent a little more exciting, but that cleared up before long.
We left at 9:30pm from the Heliotrope Ridge Trailhead and summitted at 5:15am. It was a warm evening, so the snow below the Black Buttes was soft. But, once we got up to the saddle, the snow had set up pretty good. The Roman Wall was still steep (of course), but we were able to kick steps in the firm snow.
Watch out below the Black Buttes. We stumbled onto a couple of small open crevasses. Glad we decided to rope up there.
Overall it took about 13 hours car to car.
Kind of disappointing to see snow mobilers on the summit after the long slog to the top but as always it was worth it. You could literally play football on Baker's summit, it's huge up there.
A fun trip in good weather with the Seattle Mountaineers. After being hosed by the weather on previous attempts up the Boulder Glacier and Coleman glacier routes I finally summited this mountain.
Nice climb, but not really technical.
There was A LOT of snow (waist-deep in places), so we had to posthole all the way up, which was sort of painful -- but I perversely enjoyed it ;)
We had a very short window of clear-visibility weather (about 5 hours) during which we made most of the ascent (plus a couple of 1-2 hour windows next day). The rest of the time it was complete or near-complete whiteout (incl. the summit). We had to rope up and mark our way (to avoid getting lost on the way down).
We originally planned to go to the North-West ridge, but did not go there due to the weather conditions.
See a photo-report at
Fantastic solo climb, but I didn't even have time to finish my sandwich on the summit because it was instant blizzard time. Too bad the storm was invisible over the ocean, and I must have mistook the first wisps of clouds for an innocent orographic effect. Western sky was clear only 5 minutes before the snow hit. Needless to say, my descent was a bit trickier than the ascent. ~1000 ft below, it was a beautifully calm snowfall.
fine climb, first experience with ice ax
Great route. Camped at 6300' My buddy convinced me to do this route instead of Easton Glacier, I'm glad !
Beautiful weather, but too warm. The snow was very soft, and some of the crevasse crossings were iffy.