Nice easy climb on hard snow.
Lots of beautiful ice forms and crevasses. Fun, relatively easy route on a beautiful day.
Memorial weekends always helpful by adding up some necessary vocation time in our bussy life style. It was early in the season, thus most of the roads leading towrds the trailhead were completely covered with snow. Once we found a spot where to leave our car we started to go up the trail. The weather was buitiful in the morning but was rotten by the heavy rain later in the day. After a nasty day of hike we did not hope to see a clear sky, but fortunatly the next day became very promising. The summit condiitons were perfect and we summited via the Normal route with some littel variations(45 deg ice climb) to make the summit day more remarkable. It took us nine our total from the base came and back.
Went up with the promise of a dusting of new snow, bought my snowboard and rode down the majority of the Coleman-Deming route. We found shallow powder/corn down to 8000 feet. Perfect weather for the third time in a row.
Once again, perfect conditions and amazing weather. The route was very busy on the weekend. We camped at the high camp up at 7000 feet, which in hindsight is not a very good idea. The glacier begins at 6000 feet, and the first section is steep and heavily crevassed. A fall with a full backpack on this section would not be pretty. It's a short climb anyway, so the low camp on the rocks at 6000 feet is perfectly suitable.
An amazing climb...can't wait to go back and try one of the other routes.
Left TH at 12 midnight for a one day ascent of the north ridge, and a ski down the coleman deming route
20 Hours RT, too many running belays above ice cliff due to fresh snow and balling up of crampons.
Good ski down on corn.
TR and images:
Part of an AAI mountaineering course. Spent 5 days up on the mountain. The weather cleared on or summit day and gave us nice crisp snow and great views.
- We camped @ 6,500'
- Got up @ 1:00 am
- Started climbing @ 2:00 am
- Snow conditions were excellent
- Sun rose up @ 5:30 am
- Reached the summit @ 5:45 am (good pace)
- No wind on the way up but cold brisk and blustery on top (take layers when you stop).
- Stayed for an hour and had fun on the glacier on the way down.
climbing partner JW Port
Partners: David Morgan, Hubertus Guenther, Joe Nappi, Erich Guenther.
Baker can be done in one day as an option. Leave cars from Heliotrope Ridge trailhead about 1:00AM, summit by 9:30AM and back to car by 3:00PM. We have done it the last two years as a warm up for other climbs. Just an option, but the packs are sure lighter.
Glacial Core Samping
Great trip! Had the route mostly to ourselves. Spent a few hours on the summit collecting glacial core samples with some WWU friends.
Reached the secondary summit before electing to turn back due to lenticular clouds blowing in. The descent turned into a complete whiteout. Read my trip report for a full description. It was a great climb with gorgeous views of the north cascades. Hardly any body there also . . . I will return to bag the true summit.
Started early in a perfect weather. By 1pm reached the ice-climb on the ridge. After the leaders reached the top of the ridge, some of the climbers had difficulties ascending the ropes. Weather deteriorated. As a result - unplanned bivy in a snow cave dug on the top of the ridge. Next morning everyone reached the summit.
Started late, around 11am from the low camp. 5:35pm - summit. 8:30pm - back in the camp.
We camped surrounded by flowers below the snow. Next day on the summit I surprised my wife with a gold and onyx ring to commemorate the summit. Our third member, Jim, fell and slid down a slope on the descent dragging my wife Melody into a crevasse. I found her lodged upside down, feet wiggling furiously in the air only an arms reach deep into the chasm. She got quite an adrenaline rush but was unhurt. Moving slowly, we didn't reach our tent until after dark.
Also climbed the North Ridge back in (I think) 1995. Spent one night at base of route and the next day climbed it and returned to car. Mostly it's pretty much a snow climb but there were 2 or 3 pitches that were cool. We had fun regardless.
Climbed the North Ridge car to car in 12 hours in very good conditions including 2 pitches of steep, excellent ice. Snowed up road forced a longer approach and a white out on the summit partly explain our slow time. Dehydration was also a factor.
Climbed Coleman Headwall in 10 hours car to car under very good conditions. A fit person could reasonably climb this route much faster.
The late Bob Harvey and I climbed the beautiful Coleman Glacier via it's Headwall in the fall of 1984. This was another of the unforgetable NW volcano climbs. Great trip!