Ascended Bretherton via the south end of the Milk Lake cirque in 2008, but went up a much better route this time around via the north ridge. From Upper Lena Lake note the series of forested/talus ramps leading upwards climber's left of the obvious rocky dome (e.g. terminus of Mt. Bretherton's northern ridge). Follow ramps upwards onto the north ridge and scramble south to the summit. Couple catwalk spots along the way. On reaching the summit block, drop down a bit on the right side and push your way up through vegetation on a goat trail to regain the ridge. Surprisingly good rock.
Approached in the morning after spending the night at the North end of Upper Lena Lake. After reaching Milk Lake via an interesting route (we took a "shortcut", but climbing over some rocky ridges instead of first backtracking around Upper Lena to get to the standard trail). At Milk Lake we put on crampons to get around the lake (still frozen) and up the steep snow slope. Once a the crux (Fairly exposed class 3, but easily doable if you take your time), it was only about 15 minutes to the top. Great view!
Gorgeous hike up to the summit after staying at Lena Lake. Made it past the hairy exposed part, but left my wife behind (bad move). The alpine lakes and scenery was very awesome.
I had originally signed the log years ago, but I guess that climber's log got deleted with the original page. Too bad. Still good memories of the hike though, 7 years later.
I was camped at upper lena for a week doing revege work for the park service. On our off day another worker and I went up the south east notch route. It wasnt as steep as it looked from milk lake, but still plenty steep for my first climb. We had a little trouble figuring out how to proceed past the notch, which requires a quick scramble up and over a section of rock you cant see past until your on top of it. From there, its a piece of cake up to the summit, which commands a very impressive view down to the lake. On the way back, descending back down to the snowfield from the notch was slow going. Just sketchy enough to make it a good challenge. Lots of loose rock.
After climbing Lena East Peak and Lena, we tried the standard gully route described in the OMCG. Made it to about 5400 feet before we decided it was too loose for our tastes. I believe we were almost past the crux but at the time, it wasn't worth it.
It's a bummer the original page was deleted. I summited this in 2009, but had no views due to fog. I took the North Ridge up, which is a fun scramble, with one difficult move of about 15 feet consisting of skirting across a narrow ledge while hugging a cliff face. Great scramble from Upper Lena Lake. I did Mount Lena the next morning before heading back.
made our own tricky little class 3-4 route, fun stuff, except the a-hole giant goat above us kicking rocks down.good views.