I wanted to add additional info for people seeking the easiest route to the top of Mt. Clark. I did several hours of research prior to attempting this peak, and only found the slightest amount of info on the northeast face route as everyone that seems to climb this peak are bad-ass, fearless rock climbers who climb either the NW or SE Aretes.
We approached from Glacier Point Road, Mono Meadows is closest, least vertical. We left the trail where the Clark Fork intersects the trail to the ESE of all the major domes (Starr-King etc) then proceeded northeast toward the two unnamed lakes near the bottom of the Northwest Arete. We found a weakness in the bottom portion of the Northwest Arete, and climbed down , and crossed a boulder field near a small tarn. We then proceeded SSE toward the north face of Mt. Clark. We climbed up the face near the saddle between Mt. Clark and the unnamed 10,987' peak and then proceeded up the Northeast Face. This was some fairly exposed relatively easy rock climbing/scrambling.
Our supposedly class 3 route up the final couple hundred feet of Mt. Clark zig-zagged back and forth along ledges upward just to the right of the high point of the summit block arriving right at the signature pictured overhanging diving board rock about 15 feet from the summit on the Northwest Arete. From here, two of my group did the hand traverse up the right side of the arete closest to the diving board rock which is very exposed but easy by their account. I used the hand crack in the 10' or so chimney on the left side of the arete with no exposure to reach the final crack that you can walk through and around to the summit or pull yourself up through to more quickly gain the summit. We downclimbed the same way back. There were a couple 6-10' sections of what I would call 5.3 rock climbing on this approach but overall wasn't terrified on this route other than the top 15' below the summit.
On the way back we found the easiest and safest way to approach the Northeast Face of Mt. Clark by skirting the east, and then north faces of the 10,987' peak to the NNE of Mt. Clark, and then descend the west face of this unnamed peak back down to the lakes. If I were wanting to climb Mt. Clark the easiest and safest way I would ascent the west face of the 10,987' peak and skirt the north and then east faces of this peak en route to the Northeast Face of Mt. Clark.
wmolland - Aug 28, 2023 10:00 pm Date Climbed: Aug 26, 2023
NW Arete
To start off with, there was a fire in 2021 that erased pretty much all of the swamp/downed forest section that existed on the xc portion of the route from Mono Meadows TH. It's now (as of 2023) a pretty straightforward route from the trail cutoff all the way to the start of the climb.
Secondly, holy moly the exposure is real on this route! After a maybe 150' section of for sure 4th class (including pulling an easy but super exposed roof), the route to the summit is impossible to get lost on. But it's wildly exposed. If you're comfortable with exposure it's big deal, but if not it'll send you spinning.
Fantastic climb, one of the best in the Sierra- with views to match. Just don't underestimate the last 300' of vert.
colinr - Oct 6, 2017 12:59 am Date Climbed: Aug 9, 2017
Dayhiked from Happy Isles - about 32mi and 9.5k'. Took slabs up just east of Bunnell Point bypassing brush that had mired me on a previous trip and then went up the center of the west face above 'Gendarme Robert' (staying right at the top of the approach 'gulley') to the north ridge on the NW Arete route. There was some spicy slab climbing and a 4th class scramble but nothing too severe before a great sidewalk-in-the-sky 3rd class finish.
dkangas - Aug 23, 2013 2:13 am Date Climbed: Aug 21, 2013
NW Arete
My third year in a row to summit Clark--it's a favorite. I'm now convinced that the purported 3rd/4th class route onto the NW Arete simply does not exist. My partner and I (Waide L) agreed our route was a 5.6 or so. Whoever goes for this route should either be prepared to solo 5.6 or bring a rope.
We did it in two pitches on a 30m rope as follows:
P1: From the left side of the top of the gully, start up an awkward hand crack (5.6) into a 4th class trench up to a small shrub pine tree for a belay stance.
P2: From the pine tree ascend to the right along a smooth, low-angle face to just under a roof (the roof is obvious from below). Getting under and around the roof is the 5.6 crux. From there it is a face climb with good holds but poor pro onto the arete. The arete itself is super-exposed class 3 on beautiful granite, everything one could ask for.
Diggler - Jun 14, 2013 1:43 pm Date Climbed: Jun 12, 2013
fun
Did the NW Arete; 2nd try, after an unsuccessful attempt maybe a week prior. This time, after camping at Little Yosemite Valley after (another) unsuccessful Half Dome NW face attempt, figured it would be good to do this, while having 5 less miles to hike than from the standard TH. Left LYV campground at 9.20. Summited 15.00ish. Incredible views, super fun climbing! Left summit at 15.30. In attempt to find shortcut on downclimb, found myself in sketch 5th class terrain. Obviously no misfortune, but super glad to just make it back to the arete proper & just downclimb the same way I came up. Back at the campground ~22.00. Long, interesting, & fun day!
Climbed this route with dkangas and three other climbers from SMG. Long approach (9.5 mi) from Mono Meadows TH then another (1.5 mi) on summit day. Good solid route with lots of interesting and exposed climbing. The highlight of the day was of course the step-across below the summit. Damn little for hand holds and a step that must be made with authority. James Gardiner best described this part of the route after he and Clarence King summited the peak in 1866. "It was, I think, duty's call that nerved us. That leap, like most dangers, seemed more perilous after it was made than before; it was not the length of the spring -- that was easy -- but to light in exact balance on a projecting rock that scarcely held half of one foot, while the remainder of the body hung over a precipice 1500 ft. deep, was a thing requiring most exact judgment."
Climbed some harder-than-necessary variation of the NW ridge after a long, long slog over from Starr King. Down the SE ridge, which is definitely less cool than the NW. Trip report.
bechtt - Jun 25, 2012 4:46 pm Date Climbed: Jun 24, 2012
Ascent via NW, descent via SE
Good ascent with Bill and Laura climbing directly from the gendarme saddle at the top right side of the gully. Multiple rap stations and some interesting moves gave me pause a couple of times of my choice in footware. Missed (or forgot about) the airy step on the SE arete as Bill and I downclimbed an exposed cl.4 weakness on the east side. And then downed trees forever!
Vitaliy M. - Aug 22, 2011 4:23 pm Date Climbed: Aug 20, 2011
Finally..NW arete
Came back with same group to get our revenge. No thunderstorm this time! Took about an hour on the summit to take in the views!
mrchad9 - Aug 22, 2011 1:44 pm Date Climbed: Aug 20, 2011
Mono Meadows
Long dayhike from Mono Meadows with Vitaliy M. and dkangas after being chased off by electrical storms the year before. We got very lucky with the wind as the smoke from the nearby fires on Glacier Point road did not affect our views at all. Climbed onto the arete from the saddle where the ridge in the middle meets the southwest face. Excellent day.
dkangas - Aug 22, 2011 12:52 pm Date Climbed: Aug 20, 2011
Return to Clark
Returned to NW arete after getting stopped by a lightning storm last fall. Day-hiked from Mono Meadow with Chad and Vitaliy. To gain the arete we climbed to the saddle between the large gendarme and the west face itself, scrambled up some class 3, then set up an anchor for the class 5 portion. Superb day.
yosemitechickon - Aug 16, 2011 8:09 pm Date Climbed: Aug 6, 2011
Dun it
Up NW Arete, down NE face:
https://picasaweb.google.com/yosemite.chick.on/MtClark
One of my favorites from my years working in the High Sierras.
dkangas - Oct 6, 2010 1:55 am Date Climbed: Oct 2, 2010
Storm on Clark
Day-hiked from Happy Isles with Vitaliy and Chad for attempt on NW Arete. Forecast was for the famous 20% chance of thunderstorms. At the top of the gully (the route start) dark clouds alternated with sun as we put on gear, so we decided to climb up to the arete and "see." After one pitch with a 30m rope we encountered a crux section for getting onto the top of the arete. Unexpectedly difficult climbing (seemed more like class 5 than the advertised class 4 to me), and with now very sketchy weather, I bailed. Vitaliy and Chad continued to the top of the arete. Within minutes they were engulfed in electro-static goo, rocks humming, as a huge t-storm rolled over us. I was able to rappel down from my position using a long piece of webbing while the others hunkered down under a roof on top of the arete. Fortunately, everyone was okay. A very scary 45 minutes. Lesson for me: pay attention to the weather. But Clark is a beautiful mountain--I'll be going back. Car to car was 18 hours. To avoid bushwhacking hell, head up as soon as you see exposed granite from the trail after Bunnell Point. In general, staying as far west as possible is a good rule for navigating the first off trail section.
Dayhiked via NW Arete from Happy Isles TH with Joel Wilson and Heyning Cheng. I carried a rope and rack to lead the exposed sections for the others, and it came in handy! I started on the 4th class crack, but found two sections that I'd say were 5.4-5.5 (so 'classic' Sierra cl. 4?). We avoided the bushwack hell on the way up but couldn't avoid it on the way down.
murraymcleod - Jan 8, 2010 2:19 am Date Climbed: Aug 15, 1970
1970 Climb
Climbed with Kris Kilmer from Merced Lake HSC where we worked that summer. We had to be back by 4PM to help fix dinner for guests, so was a quick trip. Climbed east slope (not too hard) and descended via north slope I think....
cottersnow - Dec 5, 2009 3:42 pm Date Climbed: Aug 11, 2006
grovelerdan - Sep 12, 2024 1:48 pm Date Climbed: Sep 8, 2024
Up/down northeast faceI wanted to add additional info for people seeking the easiest route to the top of Mt. Clark. I did several hours of research prior to attempting this peak, and only found the slightest amount of info on the northeast face route as everyone that seems to climb this peak are bad-ass, fearless rock climbers who climb either the NW or SE Aretes.
We approached from Glacier Point Road, Mono Meadows is closest, least vertical. We left the trail where the Clark Fork intersects the trail to the ESE of all the major domes (Starr-King etc) then proceeded northeast toward the two unnamed lakes near the bottom of the Northwest Arete. We found a weakness in the bottom portion of the Northwest Arete, and climbed down , and crossed a boulder field near a small tarn. We then proceeded SSE toward the north face of Mt. Clark. We climbed up the face near the saddle between Mt. Clark and the unnamed 10,987' peak and then proceeded up the Northeast Face. This was some fairly exposed relatively easy rock climbing/scrambling.
Our supposedly class 3 route up the final couple hundred feet of Mt. Clark zig-zagged back and forth along ledges upward just to the right of the high point of the summit block arriving right at the signature pictured overhanging diving board rock about 15 feet from the summit on the Northwest Arete. From here, two of my group did the hand traverse up the right side of the arete closest to the diving board rock which is very exposed but easy by their account. I used the hand crack in the 10' or so chimney on the left side of the arete with no exposure to reach the final crack that you can walk through and around to the summit or pull yourself up through to more quickly gain the summit. We downclimbed the same way back. There were a couple 6-10' sections of what I would call 5.3 rock climbing on this approach but overall wasn't terrified on this route other than the top 15' below the summit.
On the way back we found the easiest and safest way to approach the Northeast Face of Mt. Clark by skirting the east, and then north faces of the 10,987' peak to the NNE of Mt. Clark, and then descend the west face of this unnamed peak back down to the lakes. If I were wanting to climb Mt. Clark the easiest and safest way I would ascent the west face of the 10,987' peak and skirt the north and then east faces of this peak en route to the Northeast Face of Mt. Clark.
wmolland - Aug 28, 2023 10:00 pm Date Climbed: Aug 26, 2023
NW AreteTo start off with, there was a fire in 2021 that erased pretty much all of the swamp/downed forest section that existed on the xc portion of the route from Mono Meadows TH. It's now (as of 2023) a pretty straightforward route from the trail cutoff all the way to the start of the climb.
Secondly, holy moly the exposure is real on this route! After a maybe 150' section of for sure 4th class (including pulling an easy but super exposed roof), the route to the summit is impossible to get lost on. But it's wildly exposed. If you're comfortable with exposure it's big deal, but if not it'll send you spinning.
Fantastic climb, one of the best in the Sierra- with views to match. Just don't underestimate the last 300' of vert.
colinr - Oct 6, 2017 12:59 am Date Climbed: Aug 9, 2017
https://peaksforfreaks.blogspot.com/2017/08/convoluted-bliss.htmlhttps://peaksforfreaks.blogspot.com/2017/08/convoluted-bliss.html
Romain - Aug 31, 2017 4:20 pm Date Climbed: Aug 25, 2017
Up NW Arête, down SE ArêteVery good climb, followed by the West Ridge of Gray Peak. Trip report
jdmorris - Sep 21, 2015 2:33 pm Date Climbed: Sep 19, 2015
W Face / NW AreteDayhiked from Happy Isles - about 32mi and 9.5k'. Took slabs up just east of Bunnell Point bypassing brush that had mired me on a previous trip and then went up the center of the west face above 'Gendarme Robert' (staying right at the top of the approach 'gulley') to the north ridge on the NW Arete route. There was some spicy slab climbing and a 4th class scramble but nothing too severe before a great sidewalk-in-the-sky 3rd class finish.
dkangas - Aug 23, 2013 2:13 am Date Climbed: Aug 21, 2013
NW AreteMy third year in a row to summit Clark--it's a favorite. I'm now convinced that the purported 3rd/4th class route onto the NW Arete simply does not exist. My partner and I (Waide L) agreed our route was a 5.6 or so. Whoever goes for this route should either be prepared to solo 5.6 or bring a rope.
We did it in two pitches on a 30m rope as follows:
P1: From the left side of the top of the gully, start up an awkward hand crack (5.6) into a 4th class trench up to a small shrub pine tree for a belay stance.
P2: From the pine tree ascend to the right along a smooth, low-angle face to just under a roof (the roof is obvious from below). Getting under and around the roof is the 5.6 crux. From there it is a face climb with good holds but poor pro onto the arete. The arete itself is super-exposed class 3 on beautiful granite, everything one could ask for.
Diggler - Jun 14, 2013 1:43 pm Date Climbed: Jun 12, 2013
funDid the NW Arete; 2nd try, after an unsuccessful attempt maybe a week prior. This time, after camping at Little Yosemite Valley after (another) unsuccessful Half Dome NW face attempt, figured it would be good to do this, while having 5 less miles to hike than from the standard TH. Left LYV campground at 9.20. Summited 15.00ish. Incredible views, super fun climbing! Left summit at 15.30. In attempt to find shortcut on downclimb, found myself in sketch 5th class terrain. Obviously no misfortune, but super glad to just make it back to the arete proper & just downclimb the same way I came up. Back at the campground ~22.00. Long, interesting, & fun day!
kevin trieu - Apr 30, 2013 2:40 pm
weird year...climbed during the year when there were no snow in the high country late into winter and all the high lakes were perfect for ice skating.
WayneFry - Sep 28, 2012 5:51 pm Date Climbed: Sep 22, 2012
The Obelisk! SE AreteClimbed this route with dkangas and three other climbers from SMG. Long approach (9.5 mi) from Mono Meadows TH then another (1.5 mi) on summit day. Good solid route with lots of interesting and exposed climbing. The highlight of the day was of course the step-across below the summit. Damn little for hand holds and a step that must be made with authority. James Gardiner best described this part of the route after he and Clarence King summited the peak in 1866. "It was, I think, duty's call that nerved us. That leap, like most dangers, seemed more perilous after it was made than before; it was not the length of the spring -- that was easy -- but to light in exact balance on a projecting rock that scarcely held half of one foot, while the remainder of the body hung over a precipice 1500 ft. deep, was a thing requiring most exact judgment."
seano - Sep 27, 2012 8:39 pm Date Climbed: Sep 26, 2012
Up NW, down SEClimbed some harder-than-necessary variation of the NW ridge after a long, long slog over from Starr King. Down the SE ridge, which is definitely less cool than the NW. Trip report.
bechtt - Jun 25, 2012 4:46 pm Date Climbed: Jun 24, 2012
Ascent via NW, descent via SEGood ascent with Bill and Laura climbing directly from the gendarme saddle at the top right side of the gully. Multiple rap stations and some interesting moves gave me pause a couple of times of my choice in footware. Missed (or forgot about) the airy step on the SE arete as Bill and I downclimbed an exposed cl.4 weakness on the east side. And then downed trees forever!
Vitaliy M. - Aug 22, 2011 4:23 pm Date Climbed: Aug 20, 2011
Finally..NW areteCame back with same group to get our revenge. No thunderstorm this time! Took about an hour on the summit to take in the views!
mrchad9 - Aug 22, 2011 1:44 pm Date Climbed: Aug 20, 2011
Mono MeadowsLong dayhike from Mono Meadows with Vitaliy M. and dkangas after being chased off by electrical storms the year before. We got very lucky with the wind as the smoke from the nearby fires on Glacier Point road did not affect our views at all. Climbed onto the arete from the saddle where the ridge in the middle meets the southwest face. Excellent day.
dkangas - Aug 22, 2011 12:52 pm Date Climbed: Aug 20, 2011
Return to ClarkReturned to NW arete after getting stopped by a lightning storm last fall. Day-hiked from Mono Meadow with Chad and Vitaliy. To gain the arete we climbed to the saddle between the large gendarme and the west face itself, scrambled up some class 3, then set up an anchor for the class 5 portion. Superb day.
yosemitechickon - Aug 16, 2011 8:09 pm Date Climbed: Aug 6, 2011
Dun itUp NW Arete, down NE face:
https://picasaweb.google.com/yosemite.chick.on/MtClark
mountainmatt - Feb 7, 2011 9:29 pm
FavoritesOne of my favorites from my years working in the High Sierras.
dkangas - Oct 6, 2010 1:55 am Date Climbed: Oct 2, 2010
Storm on ClarkDay-hiked from Happy Isles with Vitaliy and Chad for attempt on NW Arete. Forecast was for the famous 20% chance of thunderstorms. At the top of the gully (the route start) dark clouds alternated with sun as we put on gear, so we decided to climb up to the arete and "see." After one pitch with a 30m rope we encountered a crux section for getting onto the top of the arete. Unexpectedly difficult climbing (seemed more like class 5 than the advertised class 4 to me), and with now very sketchy weather, I bailed. Vitaliy and Chad continued to the top of the arete. Within minutes they were engulfed in electro-static goo, rocks humming, as a huge t-storm rolled over us. I was able to rappel down from my position using a long piece of webbing while the others hunkered down under a roof on top of the arete. Fortunately, everyone was okay. A very scary 45 minutes. Lesson for me: pay attention to the weather. But Clark is a beautiful mountain--I'll be going back. Car to car was 18 hours. To avoid bushwhacking hell, head up as soon as you see exposed granite from the trail after Bunnell Point. In general, staying as far west as possible is a good rule for navigating the first off trail section.
PellucidWombat - Sep 19, 2010 8:24 pm Date Climbed: Sep 18, 2010
Loooong DayhikeDayhiked via NW Arete from Happy Isles TH with Joel Wilson and Heyning Cheng. I carried a rope and rack to lead the exposed sections for the others, and it came in handy! I started on the 4th class crack, but found two sections that I'd say were 5.4-5.5 (so 'classic' Sierra cl. 4?). We avoided the bushwack hell on the way up but couldn't avoid it on the way down.
murraymcleod - Jan 8, 2010 2:19 am Date Climbed: Aug 15, 1970
1970 ClimbClimbed with Kris Kilmer from Merced Lake HSC where we worked that summer. We had to be back by 4PM to help fix dinner for guests, so was a quick trip. Climbed east slope (not too hard) and descended via north slope I think....
cottersnow - Dec 5, 2009 3:42 pm Date Climbed: Aug 11, 2006
Oblique LakePretty. Should've done a different route though.