After the great winter of 2016-2017, almost entirely snow covered from Long Lake to the summit (June 30!). Amazing conditions, almost embarrassingly easy up the Hourglass. Refrigerator sized boulder had come down within the previous day, which kept my senses on point. IMHO, the Hourglass is not as steep as it looks from a distance, was expecting steeper. Only used my axe on the top 1/3rd. Endless mountains visible from the summit.
Tedious slog. Should've taken one of the more exciting class 4 chutes.
Plenty of snow in the couloir. Even the upper half of the mountain above the couloir's saddle has plenty of snow after climbing past the initial talus.
Day hike of both Dade and Pip-Squeak Spire with Todd.
What little snow left seemed kind of sloppy so I chose to ascend surprisingly good talus on the far left side. Traversed over to Pipsqueak after climbing Dade
An hourglass, how perfect. Glad I got there before the snow melted. Hit some crumbly rock near the top of the col and would hate for the whole route to be like that.
Fun first trip with SMC, very useful mentorship from experienced group leaders.
3rd-classed my way up the south side of the east ridge, opposite the hourglass, on final day of 7-day backpack. Trip report.
Hiked in to Long Lake, then snowshoed up to Treasure Lakes, where we set up base camp. After night thunderstorms, we went up the Hourglass to the summit, then back to camp and hiked out. Long day, but totally worth it. Seeing the High Sierra under some snow was a treat.
W/ Peter, Carol and Mohi
It's a low-snow year and there were rocks coming down Hourglass -- turned back. Will have to try again when there's more snow to hold things in place.
First peak of the day with Mark and Pat which included Dade, Pipsqueak Spire and Bear Creek Spire. The Hourglass was completely snow free. The bottom half wasn't too bad, but the top was a miserable sandy, loose slog.
A day hike from Box Lake, about 10 hours total. The snow is gone in the upper part of the Hourglass, and there was some pretty serious postholing in the lower part, particularly on my way back. The snow-free part of the couloir is ugly and tedious, but doable if you really have to get to the plateau. Must have been much more enjoyable earlier in the season. An easy ascent from the plateau to the summit, no obstacles. About 12 parties have signed up the summit register this year, the first group in the first week of January. The last visit last year was on Dec 31, 2011!
With Ann. A very enjoyable romp up the Hourglass. Fresh snow made filled the voids between the boulders on the upper Class 2 section and made it more tedious.
Camped at 10700ft on previous day.
First of 3 for the weekend - Dade, Abbot, Morgan.
With Darren Shutt. There was still enough snow to form a 50 degree snow-ramp ascending about 700 feet from the glacial cirque. That put us within one pitch of the summit ridge over mixed snow and rock. Snow was breakable crust at points, making for some sketchy stances, though overall pretty good. Rock can be loose.
snowy mixed climbing over 4th class rock to the summit.
Good climbing with Ben! This was a well worth summit!
Started 1.5 miles from the Mosquito Flats trailhead and climbed up the Hourglass Couloir. Very fun climb with awesome views.