My climbing partners being late, I soloed this ice gully and found it ( in August of 1995 ) to be about 800' and 50 degrees of snow with water ice at the top. In 2002, it wasn't even there ( very dry snow year )!
Climbed the 100 Classics Route on the North Face with Tim Winiarski and Bob Lathuras. I found it a fun, challenging climb with a few objective dangers. Recommended.
Attempted this peak on a trip with Shubo (Steve) Dai. We avoided the ice in the Hourglass by taking the narrow chute to the right. It was about 45 degrees and had lots of loose rock, not much good holds on the side. We made it to the top of the Hourglass and turned back after ascending about 1/3 of the south slope, mainly because of the fierce cold winds. Descending the solid 40 degree ice of the Hourglass with only an ice axe was the riskiest thing I've ever done. In hindsight it would have been much safer to descend the route we came up.