Climbed with Vlad, Daniel, Rusty, and Eric.
Beautiful day, beautiful hike
Solo trip up the southeast ridgeline from Peggys Pond.
I did not pull in to Tucquala Meadows until after midnight the night prior, so my 4 a.m. start was bumped back a few hours. By 7:30 I was walking and made it to above Peggys Pond by 10:15. Between Peggys Pond and the ridgeline the landscape is webbed with different paths, so I did my best to stick to the "truest" path following the cairns.
At 7100' I reached the snow. Though it was certainly soft enough to kick in steps, I opted to don crampons and ice axe as the steep snow slopes below cliffed out. Once at the foot of the east summit the low cloud cover that was forecasted began to roll in. I headed first for the west summit(s). I left crampons on for efficiency as I did not know what snow lie ahead; it turns out this was unnecessary. Once I removed them below the west summit, I did not put them back on until descending the slope back to the ridgeline.
Traversing from the east summit, the low clouds overtook me, reducing visibility to a couple hundred yards. Once I scrambled to the west summit, I could only identify the shadows of the spires around me. I found the summit register in PVC pipe but did not sign it.
I saw my first person of the day who had taken the same approach as I but with an earlier start; he had hit the east and west summits, down-climbing the western ridge of the east summit to do so. He acknowledged in hindsight this was unwise.
Crossing the snow-filled saddle beneath the west summit does require walking for 50 yards or so above crevassed terrain, so be aware.
En route back to the east summit, I encountered a Mountaineers group atop Daniel Glacier (an approach I did not know prior to this trip) -- always good to see folks from the club I love so much. They opted not to hit either summit (likely because it appears they had a slower team member or two). After talking a bit, I headed for the east summit while they descended the ridgeline, where I would encounter them again later.
Hopefully my hitting the west summit on the county line as well as the east summit qualifies. There are several other "bumps" that come close to the highest point, but not quite. This is identified by the contours, though I was able to do so visually atop the east summit as most of the clouds had cleared off by then. For what it is worth, the west summit has the register and the east summit has the benchmark.
I stopped at Peggys Pond to filter water and take off the boots for a bit, but the mosquitoes did their best to try to render it unpleasant. They were scarcely present on my ascent thanks to a fairly constant breeze, but the little ruthless effers showed up as advertised from Peggys Pond on down on my descent.
Back at the car at 7:30; I continue to be a slow dog.
Blue bird day, really incredible. It feels like you are right in the middle of the Cascades here. Saw some fighter jets (maybe F-15??) flying very low through the valleys surrounding the peak. If you're not careful on the descent you can end up at the top of some cliffs that prevent you from getting down to Peggy's Pond. Generally, if you follow trails heading skier's left you will be OK.
Did this one as a day trip. It was a loooooooong day. Started from the Cathedral Rock Trailhead. Route itself was not bad and fairly straightforward. Cut the sketchy part of the ridge short and traversed the snow to get below the east summit. Watch out for rockfall when crossing below east summit over to the true summit. Helmet might be useful in the event of a careless climber. Oh and did I forget to mention BUGS? These guys follow you ALL THE WAY TO THE SUMMIT, but you lose them only at the summit. Mosquitoes were some of the worst I have ever seen. You either get sun burned from not wearing sunscreen or bitten by not wearing bug spray. Pick your poison. I found juggling sun screen and bug spray to not be effective. Otherwise, enjoy the incredible views (that were partially obstructed by the haze from all the wildfires)
This was a fun one. I should go back there someday, maybe traverse over from Hinman...
Probably the most gorgeous mountain I have been on.
Fun alpine scramble.... Straight forward route finding. We had perfect weather. Camped at Peggy's Pond. 5.5 hours camp to camp.
Amazing! I took the advice of many and did this one as an over nighter. I hiked up past Peggy's Pond passing several open campsites, up over a small ridge and down into a valley where I crossed Hyas creek and camped up on a ridge near three small tarns at the bottom of the Hyas creek glacier valley. Summited the first day with perfect conditions and great visibility and had an amazing camp that night. No people within sight and NO BUGS! I think the freeze the week before killed them, but I didn't even see a mosquito. Trip report HERE!
Wanted to try to get home before west side traffic, so I blasted up to 7000' in trail runners. Took the 'low option' off the ridge crest at 7130' (N47 33.414 W121 09.979). To me, this looks like a much better option than staying on the ridge crest (at least in late season). Was almost all class 1 + 2 for the route, with just a couple moves of low-exposure class 3. Never had to touch the ice axe. Awesome views, most of the forest fire smoke is cleared out. 3hr 15min up, 2hr 25min down.
Camped at Pea Soup Lake with great views of the Lynch Glacier. It was too late in the season to access the glacier so we opted to climb the Daniel Glacier. No need to rope up as the glacier was in great shape and low angle. Most beautiful wilderness I've seen.
I have tried to get this one 3 times. Each time failing in poor weather conditions and lack of desire to snag this peak without nice views. Finally I got the opportunity.
I would absolutely suggest camping the 14 miles round trip are pretty tough and although it could probably be done in a day. The 2 day trek is much nicer and Peggy's pond is a great place to camp.
Planned to make it to the west peak by crossing the ridge to the east of the East peak and gaining the Daniel glacier, but we gained the ridge a bit too high for easy access. Dropped below the south side of East Peak and followed climber's trail up. Socked in by fog and didn't realize there was a non-glaciated route from there to West Peak. Still a fun day. Very buggy at Peggy's Pond.
Just stayed along the South Spine. It was pretty simple. I didn't hit the glacier cause I didn't have crampons. Did it in one day. If I did it again, I'd hike to Peggy's pond, camp and do the mountain the next day.
Sat. in August 2003. Up the SE ridge and down Hyas Glacier. Raced some guy to the car.
Pretty area, took three days camping around and learning the basics of snow climbing and crevasse rescue on a mountaineering course.
Great climb! We were soaked with rain then it turned to snow! Very slow with fresh snow and poor visibility. We turned back due to the storm settling in. Just below the East Summit.
We only had one day and the forecast left room to hope. We had great views all the way to Peggy's Pond. By the time we were on the SE ridge visibility was 50 yards or less. We found our way all the way to the main summit hoping the weather would break. It didn't. On the way down we had some route finding issues. This one ended up a long and thankless day hike.
Barely made it to the trailhead, bucked a fallen tree on the road with a small handsaw and axe. Snow at the trailhead, then consistent partway up to Squaw Lake. Kept getting off the trail and back on, camped the night at Peggy's Pond.
Got going by 3:20am but was on-and-off whiteout and kept sprinkling on us, so turned back at the ridge below East Summit (~7200') because of miserable conditions for the ascent and fear of worsening snow conditions for safely descending (evidence of small avalanches recently) and miserable exit.
Overnight at Peggy's Pond then middle summit via Hyas Glacier, over the ridge below the East Summit and over the top of Daniels Glacier. My first time roping up for glacier travel, two man team.