Here are 5 theories on how to climb the summit pinnacle, collected for our climb at the end of August 2011. No two are quite the same. In chronological order:
1954 Sierra Club Climber's Guide (Hervey Voge):
Recounts the 1908 first ascent, by means of a "monstrous icicle" in a chimney "east of the arete between the summit [plateau] and the pinnacle" then continues:
"Ascent of this chimney fortunately does not depend on the existence of the icicle. It is a rock scramble permitting several variations, exposed just enough to warrant a belay for the unsteady."
1976 Sierra Club Climber's Guide (Steve Roper):
"A short chimney on the northern side of the pinnacle provides a class 3 route."
John Moynier in the 2d edition of Climbing California's High Sierra (2002 revision of 1993 Sierra Classics):
"At the eastern edge of the plateau, descend into the notch between the plateau and the summit pinnacle. A crack on the west side of the exposed pinnacle leads to the top (Class 3)."
R. J. Secor, Peaks, Passes and Trails, 2d ed 1999, recommends:
"[C]limbing down off the plateau and traversing around the pinnacle on its right side to a chute. Descend . . . a short distance, and then climb another chute to the far southeast side of the summit block. Climb either of two cracks that lead to a narrow ledge about 6 feet below the top . . . "
Bob Burd in the SP route description:
"Climb down to the saddle between the summit massif and the detached pinnacle. . . . It is most easily from the back side, which can be reached by going clockwise or counterclockwise around the pinnacle. . . . Secor was smoking crack when he wrote his description, . . . On the counterclockwise side, . . . there are two crack systems. . . . If you continue around to the back side, you find even easier climbing that allows you to avoid the difficult cracks."
It's hard to draw any conclusion about how to climb the pinnacle, other than that there is more than one way. We went down into the notch and more or less directly up the other side--good holds, probably class 4, did use a rope.
gordonye - Mar 17, 2002 12:43 pm - Voted 10/10
Untitled CommentGreat pics! Seems some people who contributed pictures have climbed via Lamarck Col. I'd love to see that route added!
Romain - Jun 30, 2002 1:22 am - Voted 10/10
Untitled CommentGreat page. You could describe how long the approach is to the main routes.
rusty6 - May 12, 2004 10:43 pm - Voted 10/10
Untitled CommentThis is a beautiful page with plenty of beautiful pistures.
miztflip - Nov 27, 2004 1:55 pm - Voted 10/10
Untitled CommentGreat work Bob.
fogey - Sep 10, 2011 8:43 pm - Hasn't voted
Summit blockHere are 5 theories on how to climb the summit pinnacle, collected for our climb at the end of August 2011. No two are quite the same. In chronological order:
1954 Sierra Club Climber's Guide (Hervey Voge):
Recounts the 1908 first ascent, by means of a "monstrous icicle" in a chimney "east of the arete between the summit [plateau] and the pinnacle" then continues:
"Ascent of this chimney fortunately does not depend on the existence of the icicle. It is a rock scramble permitting several variations, exposed just enough to warrant a belay for the unsteady."
1976 Sierra Club Climber's Guide (Steve Roper):
"A short chimney on the northern side of the pinnacle provides a class 3 route."
John Moynier in the 2d edition of Climbing California's High Sierra (2002 revision of 1993 Sierra Classics):
"At the eastern edge of the plateau, descend into the notch between the plateau and the summit pinnacle. A crack on the west side of the exposed pinnacle leads to the top (Class 3)."
R. J. Secor, Peaks, Passes and Trails, 2d ed 1999, recommends:
"[C]limbing down off the plateau and traversing around the pinnacle on its right side to a chute. Descend . . . a short distance, and then climb another chute to the far southeast side of the summit block. Climb either of two cracks that lead to a narrow ledge about 6 feet below the top . . . "
Bob Burd in the SP route description:
"Climb down to the saddle between the summit massif and the detached pinnacle. . . . It is most easily from the back side, which can be reached by going clockwise or counterclockwise around the pinnacle. . . . Secor was smoking crack when he wrote his description, . . . On the counterclockwise side, . . . there are two crack systems. . . . If you continue around to the back side, you find even easier climbing that allows you to avoid the difficult cracks."
It's hard to draw any conclusion about how to climb the pinnacle, other than that there is more than one way. We went down into the notch and more or less directly up the other side--good holds, probably class 4, did use a rope.