Mount Elbrus Climber's Log

Viewing: 1-20 of 119
sutcliffe996

sutcliffe996 - Jul 3, 2007 5:46 am Date Climbed: Jun 26, 2007

Elbrus  Sucess!

Another interesting climb with AAI and Dave Morton, all went smoothly.

Park5.6

Park5.6 - Apr 16, 2007 2:37 am Date Climbed: Jul 31, 2002

The "pretty standard" route  Sucess!

A fine climb, with an ass-numbing glissade that lasted 20 minutes and 2,500 vertical feet...

missadventure

missadventure - Feb 24, 2007 4:49 am Date Climbed: Jun 20, 2006

Normal Route  Sucess!

Finally summited on the 20th after a previous aborted attempt on the 13th and waiting for the storms to clear.
Made arrangements through Pilgrim Tours light package, which was a great deal. I am eternally grateful to the many cooks at the barrels whose Russian hospitality and generosity was amazing.
Don't underestimate the objective hazards of this mountain. Climb into a storm at your own peril. A fall above the P Rocks could be fatal when the ice is exposed, as it was when I was there. If you are not self sufficient, make sure your guide knows what they are doing. Make sure you bring a GPS - finding the route down in a storm will be nearly impossible and put you onto crevasse filled terrain.


incrediblesnowman

incrediblesnowman - Feb 13, 2007 2:22 am Date Climbed: Jul 7, 2004

Route climbed: Normal  Sucess!

A hot and long day. The weather was better on the summit with nice ice cold winds and clear views.

bruno baschung

bruno baschung - Dec 19, 2006 7:53 pm Date Climbed: Aug 13, 2006

normal route  Sucess!

I climbed Elbruz west peak with Griselda MORENO (from SALTA) in a french lead commercial expedition, 13 years after a first climb of the east peak reached in may 1993 with skis in very poor conditions.

A beautiful mountain, but what a shame there's so much garbage to be cleaned in Priut hut! Please care a bout the environment, all the more as it's easy to remove all this mess!

Bruno BASCHUNG

benjohnson

benjohnson - Oct 15, 2006 5:53 pm Date Climbed: Jul 5, 2006

Standard Route  Sucess!

Kind of depressing to see the snowcats pass you on summit-day morning, but a beautiful, cold, windy summit. (And a great sunrise from Pashtuhova Rocks)

Outdoorpartner

Outdoorpartner - Oct 5, 2006 5:20 am Date Climbed: Jul 16, 2006

Third try was a charm  Sucess!

On the third day we pushed through and climbed above the storm. Thanks to Vern Tejas and Alpine Ascents.

Herb

Herb - Sep 11, 2006 8:24 am Date Climbed: Aug 22, 2006

Standard route (Pastukhova rocks - saddle - west summit - botchkis)  Sucess!

Beautiful climb - amazing sunrise! We had good conditions (some fresh-fallen snow, but not too much) and very good weather (sunny and fairly warm) up to the saddle. Then clouds and fog appeared and we had to speed up a little bit. Went with a german tour operator. Reached the west summit with six other group members and our incredibly competent and likeable guides: Ralf Dujmovits and Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner - two of the currently best high-altitude mountaineers in the world! We had the summit for ourselves for more than half an hour. For a few moments the clouds opened and we got a view of the blue sky above 5.600 meters. :o)
Four of our group had to turn back during the climb (mountain sickness, exhaustion, stomach problems...) - our local guide Eugen took care of them. During the descent we had fog and clouds continuously.

JanVanGenk

JanVanGenk - Aug 2, 2006 8:10 pm Date Climbed: Jul 14, 2006

Route Climbed: Normal route  Sucess!

Summited the west peak in whiteout and blizzard. Previous night spent in a crevasse near the saddle. I climbed the whole route on skis and then descended from the summit (nearly zero visibility until the saddle). Summited the east peak a few days earlier.

Olaf

Olaf - Jul 22, 2006 8:58 pm Date Climbed: Jul 20, 2006

Route climbed: Normal to West Summit  Sucess!

Perfect climb to the summit. Two days of waiting paid off. The first day we were surprised by a thunderstorm at 4900 meters and ran down the slope like crazy.
We had really nice weather although a strong and very cold wind.
From the P. Rocks to summit took 5 hours.
Thanks to Pilgrim Tours and our guide Sergei.

alexclimb

alexclimb - Jul 20, 2006 5:43 am Date Climbed: Jun 25, 2006

Route Climbed: Southhern route. West summit  Sucess!

After 6 days of acclimatization and couple of days down in the valley with four clients I started the Elbrus ascent from Priyut 11 and climbed the West summit quite easily in 6 hours. The weather was OK, a bit cold (-20C on the Seddle), moderate wind, good visibility. Planty of fresh snow on the Seddle.

MoT

MoT - Dec 22, 2005 8:28 am

Route Climbed: Main Route Date Climbed: August 16th 2005  Sucess!

Perfect summit day! Gale blowing on top but no clouds! Much better than my attempt in 2002 when we abandoned the climb above the saddle in a really bad blizzard

rdesota

rdesota - Dec 1, 2005 12:23 am

Route Climbed: Normal Date Climbed: August 10, 2004  Sucess!

cold but great summit day. Earlier in the season seems like a great ski down...

philippe bridgeman

philippe bridgeman - Nov 29, 2005 7:08 am

Route Climbed: Normal route Date Climbed: 11 - 18 of August 2001  Sucess!

Great trip a little difficult to get to the mountain from Aberdeen Scotland though : 3 planes, 1 Bus, 3 cars including taxies, 1 cable car and a chairlift and that’s just to the start.



Acclimatization was done on MT Cheget and at the Observatory.

EQUUS

EQUUS - Nov 6, 2005 6:43 pm

Route Climbed: ordinary route from Prijut 11 Date Climbed: Aug of 1990  Sucess!

Ascent after 3 days of fight (on second day I couldn't make a step upstairs on the saddle between W and E summits) with frozen fingers and burnt face, but I was happy on the W summit which is on the edge of former volcano crater.

redwards

redwards - Oct 28, 2005 10:55 am

Route Climbed: South Face to West Summit Date Climbed: July 08, 2005  Sucess!

Summited at 10:58 am. Guided by Pilgrim Tours.

MikeW

MikeW - Oct 25, 2005 4:46 pm

Route Climbed: Normal Date Climbed: August 2004  Sucess!

The Caucasus mountains are awesome. I should have brought my skis, this is a skiable mountain from the summit. Summit day was perfect until I reached 5200m. The clouds came in with the winds, visibility was about 5 feet. We still reached the summit though. The Russians were really nice.

flying_naffie - Aug 27, 2005 7:02 am

Route Climbed: north route Date Climbed: 15 Aug 2005  Sucess!

Perfect day , 10 hours to reach the summit from high camp at about 3650m.

Anders Holm

Anders Holm - Aug 11, 2005 7:05 pm

Route Climbed: Normal route Date Climbed: 06 Aug 2005  Sucess!

Started at 02:00 from the campsite above the barrels. Reached the summit in excellent weather with spectacular views of the Caucasus at 11:00.

Nadios

Nadios - Aug 11, 2005 4:45 pm

Route Climbed: Normal Date Climbed: 2005 August 7  Sucess!

Camped at 4400m. Excellent weather, but too hot all the way to the saddle. This time I climbed the peak all the way from Azau. No cabin, no lift.

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