Solo Waterfall Route ascent, full-on winter conditions in mid June!
The west face was a fairly loose and not particularly enjoyable slog. But the ridge itself was good fun. If you stick to the very crest of the ridge, it is mostly class 3. It only gets to class 4+ when you're very close to the summit. Stick to the top of the ridge as much as possible for the best climbing.
Up the south face. Climbed Thoreau (aka peak 12,691') the day before.
Climbed in a party of 3 and got hit by a random snow storm half way up the SE Face. We finally turned back on the ridge due to icy conditions and temps in the 20s. That led to 9 hours of sketchy downclimbing and rappelling into the night on wet rock. Good times. We left two cams in the low-angle chimney on pitch 2 Will pay return shipping and beers if anyone can get them out!
EPIC route w/ Amy. Roped up for two pitches then soloed the rest. Amazing exposure on the ridge.
Soloed the route. Beautiful day
We brought a single strand of 60m half rope. The 30m length is perfect to get over the initial steep section. The scramble along the ridge is amazingly nice and exposed and always easy. But we completely underestimated how tedious the scree descent from the ridge to Loch Leven would be.
Climbed with Mike Chen, roped up for the 1st pitch and the knife ridge. Ran into solo climber who almost fell at the knife ridge. Overall moderate and fun! Saw Diggler's summit entry just a day before.
Amazing long ridge climb that gets overlooked by the lines of people on the SE Face. Great climbing the whole way. Day hike from North Lake with Todd.
Really fun route with a lot of variety and options, and just a ton of sustained scrambling up, up, up. Pretty incredible ratio of climbing to approach makes it really fast and convenient, although I kind of missed the feeling of remoteness you get with longer approaches. Down the SW chute after watching the sunset up top.
12hrs C2C with Reza. Pitched first 50M then coiled rope & 3rd classed the rest. Trail boots & rock shoes. Two hr descent, summit to trail sucked.
Climbed up & down face in 2014. Had to turn around due to Rob's leg cramps. (alpine boots worked great).
via the waterfall route
Glad to escape to the mountains for a few times at least while on the East Side. Stoked to have found out & climbed this beautiful peak!
Started out from the pull-out at 6.17, arriving at the base of the route ~ 1 hour later. Route itself was quite fun! Really solid (for alpine, at any rate) rock, good exposure in a number of locations, & superb setting!
Summited at 10.04, & just hung out, soaking in the views, for a while. Great views of 2 of Bishop's Big Three, namely Humphreys & Tom, as well as the Evolutions (I'll make it there one of these days...). Cool (different!) views of the Palisades.
Took off from the summit 10.54, I think. Got back to the car 13.45ish.
Splendid morning/early afternoon. Blessed to be in the Eastern Sierra (& especially right before the wildfires hit, filling the whole area with smoke... Appreciate the present!).
w/ Robert. So much fun, especially the exposed cruising along the ridge! Got a bit freaked by the idea of soloing some of the 5th class stuff, but it wasn't that bad once I got on it. Thanks Robert for motivating me through it! A bit of a slog for the descent, but let's not talk about that...
With Laura and Deb.
Tried following Secor's description for the South Slope route, but turned back a few hundred feet from the summit -- too steep and loose for my comfort.
solo hike. 6.5 hours car to car. saw another solo coming up when going down.
Climbed via SE face in January! No strings attached. Chimney conditions weren't exactly optimal but very secure nonetheless. Very fun route, main chute was full of snow and ice so we just stuck to the slabs and face, made our way to the first gendarme and hit the ridge. Ridgeline is phenomenal! Great views, great weather and great friends, sent with Joseph French and El Swan.
Nice afternoon up the ridge on the south straight up to the summit. Good scrambling as you get near the summit.
4 hours car to car via SE Face. Chimney is dry and majority of snow higher is easily avoided. Cool climb for a solo.
My first time on this route and it was awesome. I wanted to add a few notes with info on current conditions and general beta that I found hard to find before the climb.
1. Current conditions:
The route, approach, and descent are all currently snow free, we brought crampons and ice axes, but never needed them (note this is an exceptionally low snow year, so in future years, I imagine there could still be a lot of snow on the route in May). The first pitch had some small frozen icicles on it, but was more or less dry. There was some running water/melting snow in a few places on the scramble up the ridge, and we were able to squeeze out an extra liter of water from one of these small running trickles.
2. More beta (especially for those who want to pitch it out)
We were slow on this route (19.5 hours car to car) because we stopped to pitch a lot of it out. The starting section can be done in 2 pitches (1 pitch for the 5.4 chimney to start, 1 pitch for the class 4, with some scrambling in between). Note with a 60 m rope, we tried (and failed) to link the 5.4 chimney and class 4 chimney in two pitches, and wound up doing an extra pitch. After the top of the class 4 chimney, the route is easy class 3 scrambling (maybe class 3+ in a few places) all the way up just before the ridge. The last section to the ridge (1 pitch) is a bit exposed. To descend from the summit, continue west along the ridge another ~100', and then downclimb a class 3/4 section to the gully which takes you all the way down the south slope (never more than class 3 downclimbing, mostly just talus hopping and scree).