Mount Emerson Climber's Log

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jscheingross - May 23, 2013 2:32 am Date Climbed: May 19, 2013

SE Face  Sucess!

My first time on this route and it was awesome. I wanted to add a few notes with info on current conditions and general beta that I found hard to find before the climb.

1. Current conditions:
The route, approach, and descent are all currently snow free, we brought crampons and ice axes, but never needed them (note this is an exceptionally low snow year, so in future years, I imagine there could still be a lot of snow on the route in May). The first pitch had some small frozen icicles on it, but was more or less dry. There was some running water/melting snow in a few places on the scramble up the ridge, and we were able to squeeze out an extra liter of water from one of these small running trickles.

2. More beta (especially for those who want to pitch it out)
We were slow on this route (19.5 hours car to car) because we stopped to pitch a lot of it out. The starting section can be done in 2 pitches (1 pitch for the 5.4 chimney to start, 1 pitch for the class 4, with some scrambling in between). Note with a 60 m rope, we tried (and failed) to link the 5.4 chimney and class 4 chimney in two pitches, and wound up doing an extra pitch. After the top of the class 4 chimney, the route is easy class 3 scrambling (maybe class 3+ in a few places) all the way up just before the ridge. The last section to the ridge (1 pitch) is a bit exposed. To descend from the summit, continue west along the ridge another ~100', and then downclimb a class 3/4 section to the gully which takes you all the way down the south slope (never more than class 3 downclimbing, mostly just talus hopping and scree).

Deb

Deb - Apr 28, 2013 10:06 pm Date Climbed: Apr 27, 2013

SE Couloir Ascent  Sucess!

Would've been a better snow climb with crampons but then I wouldn't had the opportunity (or lack of option) to climb the running waterfall. :/ Love the Class 3 fun-ness to the summit with my buddies Laura and Tom.

bighornmonkey

bighornmonkey - Jun 25, 2012 8:26 pm Date Climbed: Jun 9, 2012

SE face  Sucess!

Fun climb with really short approach.

96avs01

96avs01 - May 14, 2012 10:44 pm

Consolation Prize

Hoped for the SE Face, but snow melt into the crack forced us onto the South Slope. Still an interesting climb with some Class 3+ moves on the crest to spice things up a bit. The snow was a whole lot better than the day before on Goode.

sardude

sardude - Jan 13, 2012 12:39 am Date Climbed: Jul 15, 2008

Tom & I  Sucess!

Tom & I climbed the SE Face topped out w/ a storm below us.

thexcat

thexcat - Sep 6, 2011 6:54 pm Date Climbed: Sep 3, 2011

SE face  Sucess!

Got a late start with Cliff. Short approach, really fun climbing, excellent knife edge traverse near the summit. Blew out my back and gashed my leg on the descent.

Daria

Daria - Aug 15, 2010 8:42 pm Date Climbed: Jul 17, 2010

SE face  Sucess!

Great route-sustained 3rd/4th class, solid rock. Impressive, fun knife edge traverse.

A-Lex

A-Lex - Nov 24, 2009 12:33 pm

SE Face  Sucess!

Great climb! Up and down in fiveish hours solo with great rock the whole way up! Summit had an outstanding view. Descent down the SE/E chutes, but I think the SW stuff down to Loch Leven would be easier.

seano

seano - Sep 28, 2009 5:11 pm Date Climbed: Sep 28, 2009

SE face  Sucess!

A nice solo half-day from North Lake. The chimney isn't too bad, and the rest of the route is mostly nice class 3 cruising. Awesome short knife-edge on the ridge.

WML

WML - Sep 14, 2009 11:42 pm Date Climbed: Sep 6, 2009

Birdman Buttress Variation of SE Face  Sucess!

Fun route, great time...awesome solo!

granjero

granjero - Sep 10, 2009 7:04 pm

Two ways!  Sucess!

Climbed/skied the north couloir May 2005. Fun moves to summit in ski boots!
Climbed SE face September 2009

Bill562

Bill562 - Aug 16, 2009 11:33 pm Date Climbed: Aug 14, 2009

South Slopes  Sucess!

Climbed with Dave Gonzalez

Matt Worster

Matt Worster - Aug 11, 2009 1:01 am Date Climbed: Aug 8, 2009

SE Face  Sucess!

It's always a classic if it's better than you expect! Great day, bigger than I thought. A routefinding error made it a bit longer, and that last ridge was more than I expected, but fun when it was done. Great day, great scrambing parter who remained game throughout the day.

Samantha

Samantha - Aug 4, 2009 8:53 pm Date Climbed: Aug 2, 2009

SE Face  Sucess!

Nice climb. Another 5.4 lead for me with my new light alpine rope. Would have been more fun if my partner wasn't sick. Still hate the south slope descent--endless scree and sand on granite yuck.

bcd

bcd - Apr 13, 2009 6:17 pm Date Climbed: Apr 11, 2009

North Couloir  Sucess!

up and down the north couloir. All pow, all day!

Noondueler

Noondueler - Feb 3, 2009 2:22 am Date Climbed: Jul 12, 2000

Did north summit  Sucess!

From Loch Leven. Way windy and cold so I passed on the main summit.

paisajeroamericano

paisajeroamericano - Oct 21, 2008 2:33 pm

great climb  Sucess!

up piute pass, across humphreys basin, and up the ridge - I scrambled up the left side of the ridge, but cody could not make it - the ridge was great, then a bit of a slog up top, followed by a challenging summit problem - unfortunately, I had to return to the west ridge to pick up cody, but some of the more direct chutes looked like good decent routes - overall, a real nice climb

tdoughty

tdoughty - Sep 22, 2008 6:43 pm Date Climbed: Sep 20, 2008

Yeah Baby!  Sucess!

JB & I climbed the SE Face.

dshoshone

dshoshone - Sep 19, 2008 11:06 am Date Climbed: Sep 18, 2008

S. Face  Sucess!

Fun climb as long as you stay on the ribs leading to summit.

salad

salad - Sep 2, 2008 7:09 pm Date Climbed: Aug 30, 2008

Southeast Face  Sucess!

Fun day soloing the Southeast Face. Light snow and rain on the summit ridge.

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