My first time on this route and it was awesome. I wanted to add a few notes with info on current conditions and general beta that I found hard to find before the climb.
1. Current conditions:
The route, approach, and descent are all currently snow free, we brought crampons and ice axes, but never needed them (note this is an exceptionally low snow year, so in future years, I imagine there could still be a lot of snow on the route in May). The first pitch had some small frozen icicles on it, but was more or less dry. There was some running water/melting snow in a few places on the scramble up the ridge, and we were able to squeeze out an extra liter of water from one of these small running trickles.
2. More beta (especially for those who want to pitch it out)
We were slow on this route (19.5 hours car to car) because we stopped to pitch a lot of it out. The starting section can be done in 2 pitches (1 pitch for the 5.4 chimney to start, 1 pitch for the class 4, with some scrambling in between). Note with a 60 m rope, we tried (and failed) to link the 5.4 chimney and class 4 chimney in two pitches, and wound up doing an extra pitch. After the top of the class 4 chimney, the route is easy class 3 scrambling (maybe class 3+ in a few places) all the way up just before the ridge. The last section to the ridge (1 pitch) is a bit exposed. To descend from the summit, continue west along the ridge another ~100', and then downclimb a class 3/4 section to the gully which takes you all the way down the south slope (never more than class 3 downclimbing, mostly just talus hopping and scree).
Would've been a better snow climb with crampons but then I wouldn't had the opportunity (or lack of option) to climb the running waterfall. :/ Love the Class 3 fun-ness to the summit with my buddies Laura and Tom.
Fun climb with really short approach.
Hoped for the SE Face, but snow melt into the crack forced us onto the South Slope. Still an interesting climb with some Class 3+ moves on the crest to spice things up a bit. The snow was a whole lot better than the day before on Goode.
Tom & I climbed the SE Face topped out w/ a storm below us.
Got a late start with Cliff. Short approach, really fun climbing, excellent knife edge traverse near the summit. Blew out my back and gashed my leg on the descent.
Great route-sustained 3rd/4th class, solid rock. Impressive, fun knife edge traverse.
Great climb! Up and down in fiveish hours solo with great rock the whole way up! Summit had an outstanding view. Descent down the SE/E chutes, but I think the SW stuff down to Loch Leven would be easier.
A nice solo half-day from North Lake. The chimney isn't too bad, and the rest of the route is mostly nice class 3 cruising. Awesome short knife-edge on the ridge.
Fun route, great time...awesome solo!
Climbed/skied the north couloir May 2005. Fun moves to summit in ski boots!
Climbed SE face September 2009
Climbed with Dave Gonzalez
It's always a classic if it's better than you expect! Great day, bigger than I thought. A routefinding error made it a bit longer, and that last ridge was more than I expected, but fun when it was done. Great day, great scrambing parter who remained game throughout the day.
Nice climb. Another 5.4 lead for me with my new light alpine rope. Would have been more fun if my partner wasn't sick. Still hate the south slope descent--endless scree and sand on granite yuck.
up and down the north couloir. All pow, all day!
From Loch Leven. Way windy and cold so I passed on the main summit.
up piute pass, across humphreys basin, and up the ridge - I scrambled up the left side of the ridge, but cody could not make it - the ridge was great, then a bit of a slog up top, followed by a challenging summit problem - unfortunately, I had to return to the west ridge to pick up cody, but some of the more direct chutes looked like good decent routes - overall, a real nice climb
JB & I climbed the SE Face.
Fun climb as long as you stay on the ribs leading to summit.
Fun day soloing the Southeast Face. Light snow and rain on the summit ridge.