Mount Eolus Climber's Log

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Diggler - Oct 1, 2012 8:38 pm Date Climbed: Aug 10, 2012

aesthetic peak, fun climb!  Sucess!

via direct NE ridge; Left our campsite (~10,900’) @ 6.35. Making fair time to Twin Lakes, Dad nonetheless wiped out from the undertaking & took a longer break. Rest helped & we resumed. Trail not to Dad’s liking, & by the time we got to Eolus-N Eolus saddle (~11.05), strain & looks of route ahead combined led to him opting to stay there & not continue.

Too bad, esp. as the crux was right behind him :( Upon reaching start of Catwalk, ran into group coming down, 1 of which just finished his last 14er! Congratulated him & scampered to top via direct ridge (fun!). Summited @ 11.35.

Standing on what seemed to be true summit bock dicey! Heard train whistle WAY down below from summit! Enjoyed CO Native lager & tremendous views before leaving @ 12.01 (“off by noon”- close enough!).

Met up w/ Dad & retraced our steps back to campsite. Light rain on way down + thunder in distance- good timing! Back to campsite by 15.03.

A little sad Dad didn’t make it to the summit, but fun climb other than that (Catwalk esp. + direct ridge cool!), & besides, TOMORROW IS THE BIG ONE!! Nice to do this one with ease (& it was FUN!) after being turned back so many years before.


blueshade - Sep 29, 2012 1:47 pm Date Climbed: Aug 18, 2012

Eolus  Sucess!

Bridge looks like it could be intimidating, but it's actually easy with minimal exposure. #25 of 31 on 10 day trip.

Liba Kopeckova

Liba Kopeckova - Sep 3, 2012 11:47 pm Date Climbed: Sep 2, 2012

fun peak  Sucess!

an interesting scramble, catwalk, steeper finish, then up North Eolus (somebody took my brother's hiking poles and we were running down to twin lakes to get those back and returned for the north Eolus). Lovely views.

Matt Lemke

Matt Lemke - Aug 30, 2012 2:14 am Date Climbed: Aug 17, 2012

From Twin Thumbs  Sucess!

Packed over Twin Thumbs Pass and traversed over to Eolus and N Eolus before descending to Twin Lakes


miztflip - Aug 28, 2012 9:45 pm Date Climbed: Aug 21, 2012

Fantastic Little Route  Sucess!

Climbed with Sunlight and Eolus enroute from Chicago Basin to Ruby Basin. Fun quality route.


PhenomenalWoman - Aug 18, 2012 5:42 pm Date Climbed: Jul 26, 2012

Don't take the train!  Sucess!

I was surprised that this was rated less difficult than its neighbor, Sunlight. Lots of fun scrambling, the catwalk, good weather, and an incredible view from the summit made this one of my favorite summits to date. Chicago Basin was simply breath taking! Almost made the disgusting train worth it - but I will definitely hike in if I ever return!!


hhsilleck - Aug 2, 2012 3:37 pm Date Climbed: Jul 24, 2012

2nd to last 14er!  Sucess!

Beat the weather coming in ... fun scrambling on the standard route! 1 more 14er (Crestone) to go and I've completed the set!


bighornmonkey - Aug 2, 2012 11:48 am Date Climbed: Jul 4, 2012

Part of a Quadrufer  Sucess!

7th 14er this year.


Eleutheros - Jul 31, 2012 12:06 am Date Climbed: Jul 26, 2012

Wow  Sucess!

Beautiful summit. What a view! Scrambling was definitely easier than expected, but still some great exposure. Tripped on the catwalk... an exciting moment.


skorpeo - Jul 28, 2012 10:47 pm Date Climbed: Jul 25, 2012

Fortnight of Fourteeners  Sucess!

What a great mountain! The catwalk and ledges were just good fun. Class III? Maybe if you are on route the whole time.

Alex Wood

Alex Wood - Jul 27, 2012 1:59 pm Date Climbed: Aug 25, 2012

The Long Way  Sucess!

Hiked in via Pugatory Creek Trail and it rained the whole time in. We camped at the really nice shelter close to the river instead of hiking all the way into Chicago Basin. We missed our alarm the next morning and got a 2 hour late start. We ended up only doing Eulos and North Eulos. If you can afford and extra 2.5 hours, do the hike in! Its not that bad.


seano - Jul 20, 2012 9:07 pm Date Climbed: Jul 20, 2012

Standard route  Sucess!

It's a fun class 3-4 scramble if you stay near the ridge-crest. It was also my introduction to the nasty goats on a day-trip from Purgatory. Trip report.


Hyadventure - Jul 13, 2012 7:18 pm Date Climbed: Jun 4, 2012

Mostly Via the Ridge  Sucess!

I started on the regular route but joined the ridge about half the way up. Solid fun 3rd on the ridge.


xpda - Oct 29, 2011 12:59 pm Date Climbed: Sep 12, 2008

Eolus  Sucess!

with Tim, camped in Chicago Basin

Ted Eliason

Ted Eliason - Oct 13, 2011 10:18 pm Date Climbed: Aug 27, 2010

Suprisingly underated summit  Sucess!

Reminded me more of North Maroon than of the easy talus heap I was expecting.


boisedoc - Sep 5, 2011 12:56 pm Date Climbed: Aug 31, 2011

Exciting scramble  Sucess!

I thought the east face made for good scrambling. It required a fair amount of route finding to find the easiest route. As others have noted, there are too many cairns on the face that complicates things. Great views of pidgeon peak


seanpeckham - Aug 31, 2011 8:04 pm Date Climbed: Aug 28, 2011

Day 5 of 6-day solo trip from Elk Park to Needleton  Sucess!

I spent 4 incredible and wet days backpacking around solo with a tiny tarp and a bivy sac (at times hooking up with some great people I encountered, but at other times having whole drainages to myself) from Elk Park to Chicago Basin, climbed Eolus on day 5, and on day 6 did Sunlight and Windom and went down to the train, which was delayed indefinitely (but turned out to only be a couple hours) due to two rock/mudslides. Eolus intimidated me when I first saw it from Columbine Pass, partly because I had been sick and slept poorly on my trip, but that just made it worth travelling all that way to do it. I loved the climb, the scrambling and routefinding were a good match for my abilities or lack thereof. The views were some of the best I've ever had.


catullus - Aug 18, 2011 7:04 pm Date Climbed: Aug 16, 2011

standard route  Sucess!

Climbed with my dad. This was his first 14er. Catwalk great exposure. Ledges a bit loose and spooky, with too many cairns. All-and-all a great trip. Lots of mountain goats!

Sarah Simon

Sarah Simon - Jul 19, 2011 9:55 am Date Climbed: Jul 16, 2011

Standard Chicago Basin Route  Sucess!

The approach up the upper basin after leaving Twin Lakes was a little messy (wet gravel, cruddy snow) but once we got above the initial ledges to the Catwalk...MAN, I love this mountain. From the Catwalk on, this peak is non-stop fun, views and beauty. One of our party celebrated his 54th Fourteener on this summit. We all hugged him and almost knocked him off the top! What a great day.


myrone - Jul 18, 2011 11:58 am Date Climbed: Jul 16, 2011

3rd Peak of the Chicago Basin 4  Sucess!

Started up from camp in the Chicago Basin with my friend Bob at 6:02AM. Reached an empty summit at 9:32 after joining a young couple (Eric & Whitney) near the "catwalk" with windy, foreboding skies moving-in. Stayed only briefly before heading over to N. Eolus Peak at 9:45. My 57th 14'er.........Sweet!

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