Did as part of my big Glacier Peak Wilderness Trip where we climbed Emerald, Cardinal (including its south peak), Saska, Pinnacle, South Spectacle Butte, Fernow, Copper, Flora, Martin, Bonanza and Dark Peaks. 9 days, 78.5 miles, and 44,300 feet gain!
We camped at the 7700 ft col. Beautiful weather but much longer route than I was planning for, dropping into the Entiat drainage and finishing on the top of the East ridge. I sat around camp that evening while Jason climbed 7FJ solo. I was too tired.
A 4 day trip with Heather right after she returned from her speed record hike of the Appalachian Trail. We did Fernow the second day via the tarn and keyhole route from Phelps Creek. Check out the trip report for more details.
Mostly 3rd class with some 4th here and there, and the usual chossy and rotten Entiat rock. ~1h50 from Copper's summit. Descended Copper Basin and bushwhacked around the mine reclamation, which is not only obnoxious but not allowed. Trip report.
Long but fun route.
Snow over rock made going slow. Great viewpoint if somewhat of a loose scramble.
Setting out at 2pm our aim was to be back in Holden in time to catch the bus the next day at 1pm. Consequently we had to camp well above Copper basin. We found scenic camping spot on a flat section of heathery meadow at about 7,700 feet on the entiat side of the east ridge. The scramble route from this side is staight forward and we were at the summit at dawn the next morning. We made it back in plenty of time. The route from this side is direct and very scenic as you spend a good amount of time on the entiat side of the ridge. The downside is the long ferry ride.
Fernow-Maude-7FJ Speed Climb record of 11:13.
It took two trips, but I finally got revenge on Fernow. I first planned to climb Maude, 7FJ and Fernow in 3 days. After the first two, Fernow's routefinding was too time consuming. I first went to the 7700 col and found it to be melted out and terribly steep for a solo climber. Many more rambles later, I found the route up the mountain, but too late in the day. My 2 day return included a camp at the lake with up close views of Glacier Peak and a moderate scramble. By far the best views in the Entiats. Worth all of the effort.
Started from Phelps Creek trailhead at 5:30AM, summited, camped in Leroy Creek Basin. Planned on 7FJ the next day but rain changed my mind. Loose rock is terrible on the descent...took me 3.5 hrs up from camp and over 5 hours down!
I did this as a day climb and started out at 5am from the Phelps Creek trailhead for about 12 hours on the trail. Finding the "hole-in-the-rock" for the crossover to the East Ridge finish was a treat. I checked out the Copper Basin and full East Ridge approach a week earlier after climbing Bonanza Peak and got as far as the ridge above the basin for a close look - not bad, but I found the wilderness experience to be much nicer via Leroy. Plus, the Leroy route can be completed in a long day if you are in shape and have done your route-finding homework.
From reading and hearing about the Leroy Creek Route, I'd recomend coming in from Holden and Copper Basin.
Great Climb. I camped in the upper Leroy Creek Basin. Olny problem encountered was some loose rock on the shoulder. Summit views excellent.