Climbed the "Bob Burd Staircase" route with Jessica and Tammy from our camp at the third Sphinx Lake on the second day of a four day backpack trip. A fun climb in a remarkably beautiful setting!
I dropped down around the east side. It was 4th class down the north ridge and east face, but very loose. There may be a better way closer to the ridge itself. From there, it was more loose class 3-4 down the north side of the east-going spur ridge, then a boulder slog up Farquhar. Trip report.
Penelope and I scrambled up the "Bob Burd Staircase" (our name) on the SW Face on June 20, 2012. We found the route (which might have had FA by Bob Burd in 2010) to be a very nice 3rd class scramble on excellent rock. RJ Secor calls his Mantle, Lilley, Secor 1972 Northwest Ridge a NICE CLIMB, I would call the "Bob Burd Staircase" a BETTER one. The route climbs series of clean rock steps in the central couloir (the most obvious one) on the SW face and ends directly on the summit of the peak. We descended the South Ridge, a good and obvious descent route. Great if strenuous outing in a wonderful, remote setting.
An enjoyable dayhike out of Roads End, solo. Trip Report
Climbed up from Sphinx Lakes, which is a beautiful spot to camp. I also recall very little scree on this climb. It's a pretty nice and solid boulder hop all the way to the summit from the saddle.